As we bid adieu to the cold, harsh winter and welcome the gentle warmth of spring, it’s not just our wardrobes that need a seasonal overhaul. Our skin, having braved the winter chills, now faces a new set of challenges with the changing weather. The arrival of spring calls for a refreshed skincare routine that caters to the evolving needs of your skin. Let’s dive into how you can transition your skincare regimen to embrace the vibrant energy of spring.

1. Lighten Up on Moisture

Winter skincare is synonymous with heavy, rich moisturizers designed to combat dryness. However, as the mercury rises, it’s time to switch to lighter formulas. Opt for a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizer that hydrates without weighing your skin down. Oil-free moisturizers can be particularly refreshing and are ideal for maintaining balance as temperatures warm. The Vivoderm Anti-Aging Daily Moisturizer is a perfect transition for the warmer weather!

2. SPF: Your Non-Negotiable Companion ☀️

The cornerstone of spring skincare is robust sun protection. With days getting longer and the sun shining brighter, shielding your skin from UV rays is crucial. Make sunscreen a non-negotiable part of your morning routine, choosing a product with at least SPF 30. Remember, UVA and UVB protection is essential, even on cloudy days, as harmful rays can penetrate through the clouds.

3. Exfoliate with Care

Shedding the dullness of winter skin begins with proper exfoliation. Transitioning into spring, it’s important to slough off dead skin cells to reveal a brighter, more even complexion. Incorporate a gentle exfoliant into your routine, choosing between mechanical exfoliators or chemical exfoliants like AHAs (glycolic acid) and BHAs (salicylic acid). However, moderation is key—over-exfoliating can lead to irritation and sensitivity.

4. Antioxidant Power

Spring is the perfect time to bolster your skin’s defense against environmental aggressors. Antioxidants like vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid not only protect against free radical damage but also brighten the skin and help reduce the appearance of dark spots. Incorporating a serum enriched with antioxidants in the morning can provide a protective barrier against pollutants and enhance your skin’s natural radiance.

5. Stay Hydrated Inside and Out

Hydration is a year-round necessity. As we enjoy more outdoor activities, keeping our skin and body hydrated becomes even more important. Continue to drink plenty of water throughout the day and consider using a hydrating serum or essence to keep your skin plump and nourished.

6. Tailor to Your Skin’s Needs

Finally, listen to your skin. The transition from winter to spring can vary in its effects on different skin types. Pay attention to how your skin responds to changes in your routine and be ready to adapt. Whether it’s incorporating more hydrating products, reducing exfoliation, or seeking out specific treatments for spring-related skin concerns, customization is key.

Embracing the Season

Spring is a season of renewal and growth, not just for nature but for our skin as well. By adapting your skincare routine to the changing climate, you can ensure that your skin remains healthy, radiant, and ready to enjoy the beauty of spring. Remember, the goal is to support your skin’s natural balance and protect it from seasonal challenges, ensuring a smooth transition into the warmer months ahead.

While traditionally overlooked, men’s skincare is now recognized as essential for maintaining healthy, vibrant skin and combating the effects of aging, pollution, and stress. A basic skincare routine tailored to men’s needs can make a significant difference in the appearance and health of their skin.

The steps are simple 1-2-3. Basic skincare starts with cleansing, toning/exfoliating and moisturizing.

The first step in a successful skincare routine for men is cleansing. Men’s skin tends to be oilier and thicker than women’s, making it important to choose a cleanser that effectively removes dirt, oil, and impurities without stripping the skin of its natural oils. A gentle, pH-balanced cleanser is ideal for daily use, helping to prevent breakouts and maintain a clear complexion. The Vivoderm cream cleanser offers exceptional daily cleansing with added moisture that won’t strip skin’s natural protective barrier.

After cleansing, it’s important to exfoliate regularly to remove dead skin cells and unclog pores. Exfoliating also helps to improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Men should use a mild exfoliator 2-3 times a week, focusing on areas prone to oiliness or roughness, such as the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin). This can be found in using a toner or an exfoliating mask

Moisturizing is another essential step in a skincare routine for men. Even oily skin needs hydration, so it’s important to choose a lightweight, oil-free moisturizer that won’t clog pores. Moisturizing helps to keep the skin hydrated, smooth, and supple, while also providing a protective barrier against environmental damage.

In addition to these basic steps, men may also benefit from using targeted skincare products, such as serums or treatments, to address specific skin concerns. For example, a vitamin C serum can help to brighten dull skin and reduce dark spots, while a retinol treatment can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Finally, it’s important for men to protect their skin from the sun’s harmful UV rays. Sunscreen should be applied daily, even on cloudy days or during the winter months, to prevent sun damage and premature aging. Look for a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30, and reapply regularly, especially if spending extended periods of time outdoors.

In conclusion, skincare for men is essential for maintaining healthy, youthful-looking skin. By following a simple yet effective skincare routine, men can keep their skin looking its best and protect it from the damaging effects of the environment.

Tips to Treat Acne

Men can treat acne using a variety of methods, including over-the-counter products, prescription medications, and lifestyle changes. Here are some effective ways to treat acne in men:

Topical Treatments: Over-the-counter topical treatments containing ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, or sulfur can help to unclog pores, reduce inflammation, and kill acne-causing bacteria. These products are available in various forms, such as gels, creams, and spot treatments.

Prescription Medications: For moderate to severe acne, a dermatologist may prescribe topical or oral medications. Topical retinoids, antibiotics, and azelaic acid are commonly prescribed to treat acne. Oral medications such as antibiotics, hormonal therapy, or isotretinoin may be recommended for more severe cases.

Healthy Lifestyle: A healthy lifestyle can also help manage acne. Eating a balanced diet, staying hydrated, getting enough sleep, and reducing stress can all contribute to clearer skin.

Avoiding Irritants: Men should avoid using harsh skincare products, such as those containing alcohol or fragrances, which can irritate the skin and worsen acne. Shaving carefully with a sharp razor and using a gentle shaving cream can also help prevent irritation.

Professional Treatments: In addition to these methods, men with acne may benefit from professional treatments such as chemical peels, microdermabrasion, or laser therapy, which can help improve acne and acne scarring.

It’s important for men with acne to be patient, as it can take time to see results from acne treatments. Consistency with a skincare routine and following the advice of a dermatologist can help improve acne and prevent future breakouts.

Caring for the skin on your neck is just as important as caring for the skin on your face. The neck is often exposed to the same environmental factors as your face, and it’s also more prone to showing signs of aging. Here are some tips for a good neck skincare routine:

1. Cleansing: Use a gentle cleanser to clean your neck, just as you would for your face. Avoid using harsh soaps or cleansers that could strip the skin of its natural oils.

2. Exfoliation: Exfoliate your neck 1-2 times a week to remove dead skin cells and promote cell turnover. Be gentle, as the skin on the neck is thinner than that on the face. Use a mild exfoliant to avoid irritation.

3. Moisturizing: Apply a hydrating moisturizer to your neck daily. Look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and ceramides that help retain moisture and improve the skin barrier.

4. Sun Protection: The neck is often exposed to the sun, so it’s crucial to apply sunscreen to prevent sun damage and premature aging. Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 and reapply it every two hours if you’re spending time outdoors.

5. Anti-Aging Treatments: If you’re concerned about signs of aging on your neck, consider using products that contain ingredients like retinol, peptides, and antioxidants. These can help improve the texture and firmness of the skin.

6. Serums: Incorporate a neck-specific serum into your routine. Look for serums that target specific concerns like sagging skin or fine lines.

7. Massage: Gently massaging your neck can improve circulation and help with product absorption. Use upward motions to prevent tugging on the delicate skin.

8. Collagen-Boosting Ingredients: Look for products that contain collagen-boosting ingredients like vitamin C, which can help improve the skin’s elasticity and firmness.

9. Avoid Harsh Products: Be cautious with products that might be too harsh for the sensitive skin on your neck. Avoid using strong acids or treatments that could lead to irritation.

10. Hydration and Diet: Remember that skincare isn’t just about what you put on your skin. Staying hydrated and maintaining a balanced diet rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and healthy fats can contribute to the overall health of your skin.

11. Posture: Believe it or not, your posture can affect the appearance of your neck. Keeping your neck elongated and your chin slightly lifted can help prevent the development of “tech neck” or sagging skin.

12. Regular Care: Consistency is key. Just like with facial skincare, regular care is important to see visible improvements in the condition of your neck’s skin.

Remember, everyone’s skin is different, so it’s important to pay attention to how your neck reacts to different products and adjust your routine as needed. If you have specific concerns or conditions, consider consulting a dermatologist for personalized advice.

The Best (& Worst) Ingredients for Rosacea Skin – Complete Guide

One of the key factors for healthy skin is the skin barrier, aka the stratum corneum. This barrier acts as a protective shield by blocking out unwanted substances and preventing moisture loss. However, in rosacea skin, this barrier can be severely compromised.

This is where knowing your skin care ingredients can make a huge difference.

In this article, we’re going to look at the best ingredients for rosacea and how they support not the skin barrier, but the overall health of your skin. In addition, we will briefly dive into ingredients that are generally best to avoid if you have rosacea.

TOP 15 INGREDIENTS FOR ROSACEA SKIN

1. Zinc Oxide

Zinc has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that have been shown to help rosacea when used internally and topically.

When it comes to internal use, one study showed that taking 100 mg of zinc sulfate supplements helped to alleviate rosacea symptoms. In addition, the supplements didn’t produce any major side effects, except for mild gastrointestinal upset in 3 of the 25 study participants.

As for topical use, zinc oxide is a good choice for sunscreen because it’s a physical sunscreen, as opposed to a chemical sunscreen which is absorbed into the skin and can cause irritation.

In addition, zinc oxide has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties that can soothe redness, reduce the size of pores and regulate oil production.

2. Green Tea
Green tea is best known for being antioxidant-rich and anti-inflammatory. A lot of this is due to EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate), which is the most abundant – and most studied – antioxidant in green tea.

In fact, research has shown that a cream containing EGCG reduced the number of lesions in people with papulopustular rosacea.

It’s also worth noting that green tea, comes in two forms: standard green tea and matcha (green tea leaves that have been ground into a powder).

Matcha can have up to 3 times more antioxidants. So, whether you’re making your own DIY products or purchasing one, look out for matcha.

3. Hyaluronic Acid, Glycerin and Other Humectants

Humectants are an essential part of a rosacea skin care routine because they attract water and subsequently, increase the skin’s moisture levels.  Some of the main humectants to consider adding to your skin care routine include:  glycerin, aloe vera, hyaluronic acid, honey, seaweed, oats,

4. Vitamin C

Vitamin C has proven to be an effective topical therapy for rosacea because of its anti-inflammatory effect and ability to protect against free radical damage. But note that the research done on vitamin C and rosacea used ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C). While ascorbic acid is definitely very effective, it can be too harsh for some people.

So, what’s a better alternative? Use a vitamin C derivative. These are gentler on the skin, more stable and they tend to penetrate the skin better. Some examples of these derivatives include:

L-Ascorbic Acid (L-AA).
Ascorbyl Glucoside.
Methylated L-Ascorbic Acid.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP).

5. Carrier Oils
Because they’re particularly rich essential fatty acids and antioxidants, carrier oils are a great way to nourish your skin and support delicate rosacea-prone skin.

Furthermore, oils that are rich in the fatty acid, linoleic acid, can be particularly beneficial for rosacea. This is because linoleic acid is an essential component of the skin barrier and has powerful anti-inflammatory properties.

Some of the best plant-based oils to include for rosacea skin care routine are:

Rosehip oil: Rich in linoleic acid, vitamin A (in the form of beta-carotene) and antioxidants like vitamin E, anthocyanin and polyphenols. Brightens the skin, improves elasticity, and reduces inflammation.
Grapeseed oil: Rich in linoleic acid. Has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. Packed with antioxidants like tocopherol (vitamin E), resveratrol (which we’ll be discussing later) and quercetin.
Sea buckthorn oil: High in omega 3, 6, and 9 fatty acids. Also a rare plant-based source of palmitoleic acid, an omega 7 fatty acid that has powerful anti-inflammatory and wound healing properties (source).
Jojoba oil: Suitable for oily or acne-prone skin since its composition is so similar to our natural skin sebum. Also has antibacterial, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties.

6. Azelaic Acid
This natural compound is commonly found in grains like wheat, barley and rye. When used on the skin, azelaic acid exhibits anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects that are helpful for rosacea or acne-prone skin. More specifically, research shows azelaic acid reduces redness and the number of inflammatory lesions.

It’s worth noting that the research on azelaic acid used a 15% azelaic acid gel and focused on mild to moderate papulopustular rosacea.

7. Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA)
Unlike alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) provide a gentler form of chemical exfoliation that can be helpful for some rosacea patients.

In particular, BHAs like salicylic acid can improve your skin if you tend to get acne or oily skin.

That said, BHAs can be too strong for some people. As is always the case with rosacea, listen to your skin.

NOTE: a gentler alternative to BHAs is goat milk. Although it is an alpha hydroxy acid – which is usually a no-no for rosacea – there is anecdotal evidence that goat milk can actually be very soothing to sensitive skin.

8. Oats
(Colloidal oats) Oats have traditionally been used to soothe inflamed and irritated skin. The main reason why oats are so helpful for sensitive skin is because they have humectant properties that pull moisture to the skin and increase ceramide levels. These ceramides are fatty compounds that soften the skin and also help lower inflammation. When using oats for rosacea, you can use them in the form of colloidal oats or oat oil.

Colloidal oats are simply oats that have been ground into a fine powder (not to be confused with oat flour). They’re great for DIY face masks!

As for oat oil, it’s packed with antioxidants and fatty acids. Research shows that it repairs the skin barrier, even though it has only a moderate amount of linoleic acid (36 – 46%).

9. Resveratrol
Resveratrol is used internally and topically, because of its protective antioxidant properties and its connection to increasing collagen III.

This specific type of collagen is often damaged by excessively dilated blood vessels. This means those with rosacea can already have compromised collagen III levels.

When you increase type III you encourage fibroblast function. This is significant for the skin because fibroblasts are the cells that produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.

Lastly, one particular study showed that topical use of a product containing resveratrol, green tea and caffeine reduces redness.

While it’s not clear exactly how much resveratrol alone reduces redness, the results of this study are promising for anyone with inflamed skin.

10. Rose water (or pure hydrosol)
Rose water is a by-product of the production of rose essential oil. It contains very little essential oils (about 0.05%) which means it’s less likely to irritate the skin.

Overall rosewater helps to:

soothe redness and inflammation.
hydrate the skin.
balance pH.
reduce oiliness.
fight off free radicals (thanks to its antioxidant content.
For rosacea, combining rosewater and glycerin can be particularly soothing and hydrating.

11. Aloe Vera
Aloe vera gel is an incredibly hydrating humectant that also packs in lots of nutrients, including:

• minerals like zinc, selenium and manganese
• vitamins C and E
• B-vitamins
• antioxidants like beta-carotene

In addition, aloe stimulates fibroblasts (those cells that produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid). It’s no wonder, that this natural ingredient is used for dryness, itching, inflammation and anti-aging!

But that’s not all. Consuming aloe juice is often used in some detoxes. It may help to lower inflammation and promote the elimination of toxins that are contributing to skin issues.

12. Niacinamide
Niacinamide is one of the B vitamins – specifically, one of the two forms of vitamin B3 – that stimulates collagen production, improves cell turnover, and helps smooth the surface of the skin.

In fact, because of its potency, niacinamide is used as an alternative to topical antibiotics that are prescribed for rosacea.

13. Ceramides
Ceramides are found naturally in the outermost layer of the skin. They help regulate moisture loss, protect the skin barrier and prevent the development of skin conditions.

According to various publications, these ceramides are found at lower levels in rosacea-prone skin. This makes the external application of ceramides to your skin crucial.

If this isn’t enough evidence for their relevance with rosacea, a survey of dermatologists unanimously concluded ceramides contribute to successful rosacea therapy.

14. Sulfur
While the use of sulfur for skin conditions goes as far as back ancient Egypt, the first effective (and documented) use of sulfur for rosacea dates back to 1855. These days it’s available commercially in a variety of over-the-counter products and has been shown to reduce inflammatory lesions and perilesional erythema. It is best used for acne-rosacea. Modern sulphur containing formulations for rosacea incorporate 10% sodium sulfacetamide combined with 5% sulphur. The new foam formulations are easier to apply and exude fewer odors. Antiseptic, antibacterial, and antifungal properties have been attributed to sulphur.

Despite these positive outcomes, sulfur can cause unwanted side effects such as dryness, itchiness, irritation or temporary redness. (Use with caution).

15. Herbs
Herbs offer bioactive compounds that can benefit rosacea skin in various ways. For example, research shows that licorice root can improve redness and redness when applied twice a day over the course of four weeks (source).

Similarly, feverfew has been identified in clinical studies as an herbal remedy for rosacea. This herb offers UV protection (helping to shield the skin from potentially aggravating UV rays) and has antioxidant properties (source).

INGREDIENTS TO AVOID FOR ROSACEA
In general, it’s best to avoid these ingredients if you have rosacea (1, 2, 3):

Artificial fragrance.
Sodium lauryl sulfate.
Menthol.
Drying alcohols.
Camphor.
Tretinoin.
Urea.
Essential oils like eucalyptus and peppermint.
Benzoyl peroxide.
Hydroquinone.
Physical scrubs (such as sugar scrubs).
Astringents.
Lastly, witch hazel is another ingredient that can be troublesome for rosacea. However, it’s worth noting that witch hazel extracts can be extracted either in alcohol or water.

Unfortunately, many skin care companies use the alcohol-extracted form. So, a lot of the irritation that people experience with witch hazel, often comes from the leftover alcohol.

Witch hazel itself is a soothing herb. So, if you’d like to try witch hazel, find one that is extracted in water (and check with your dermatologist before adding it to your routine).

FAQs ABOUT ROSACEA INGREDIENTS
Is retinol good for rosacea?
In certain cases, retinol can help rosacea. But retinol is a potent ingredient and it could cause dryness, plus other forms of irritation.

So, if you decide to add retinol to your rosacea routine, make sure to use it sparingly, especially at the beginning. Also, seek guidance from your dermatologist in terms of what strength of retinol to use and how often.

Is vitamin E good for rosacea?
Vitamin E has various healing properties that could help rosacea. When used topically it reduces dryness and combats oxidative damage. According to anecdotal reports, vitamin E oil may also improve dryness, reduce acne flare ups and lower redness.

Is olive leaf extract good for rosacea?
While there isn’t research specifically on olive leaf and rosacea, olive contains compounds like oleuropein, which has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. One study showed that olive leaf extract has skin-rejuvenating abilities (source). This might benefit rosacea-prone skin.

In addition, olive leaf supports the immune system and is used as a supplement for candida overgrowth. Some people link rosacea to candida. So, depending on the underlying cause of your rosacea, olive leaf may help.

Is collagen cream good for rosacea?
The evidence indicates collagen cream can have a positive influence on rosacea. Research has shown a strong correlation between collagen and microvessels: when collagen levels decrease, microvessel density and size increase. This can worsen skin that’s already prone to abnormal vascular functioning.

Topically applying collagen could help counteract this tendency, thus improving the skin’s underlying structure and strength.

Is vaseline good for rosacea?
As an occlusive, vaseline prevents water loss. For rosacea, it can be applied onto damp skin to lock in moisture.

CONCLUSION
While there’s no perfect ingredient or remedy for rosacea, there are many scientifically-backed ingredients that can help and many different types of ingredients that you can add to your skin care routine. You can find MANY of these ingredients in the Vivoderm products, including the Zinc Repairing Facial Cream and the Herbal Facial Acne Mask and Anti-Aging Masks.

GET YOUR ACNE SKIN BACK IN BALANCE

• Keep your skin clean. Gently wash your face up to twice daily and after sweating. Choose a gentle, non-abrasive cleanser. Apply it with your fingertips, as scrubbing with washcloths, sponges, and other tools can irritate your skin.
• Choose the right skin care. Use gentle skin care products and ones that say “alcohol-free” on the label. Avoid products that can irritate your skin, including astringents, toners, and exfoliants. These products can dry your skin and make acne appear worse.
• Shampoo regularly. The oil from your hair can cause acne on your forehead. If you have oily hair, shampoo more often than you do now and keep your hair away from your face.
• Stick to your treatment. Trying new acne treatments too often can irritate your skin and cause breakouts. Give your treatment time to work. It may take several weeks to few months before you see a difference.
• Keep your hands off. Touching your face throughout the day can cause acne to flare. While it can be tempting to pick, pop, or squeeze your acne, doing so will make the acne take longer to clear and increase your risk for scarring and dark spots called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
• Stay out of the sun and tanning beds. Along with increasing your risk for skin cancer, tanning damages your skin and can worsen acne. Some acne medications can also make your skin very sensitive to damaging ultraviolet rays from the sun and tanning beds.Protect your skin by avoiding tanning — indoors and out — and by seeking shade, wearing sun-protective clothing, and applying a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher to all skin not covered by clothing when outdoors. Look for a sunscreen that says “non-comedogenic” or “won’t clog pores.” For more effective protection, select clothing with an ultraviolet protection factor (or UPF) number on the label.

Acne takes time to clear. If you keep seeing breakouts after following these tips, partner with a board-certified dermatologist. Dermatologists can treat existing acne, prevent new breakouts from forming, and reduce your chance of developing scars.

See more acne tips and skin resources at the American Academy of Dermatology Association

https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/acne/skin-care

This article is published in DERMASCOPE Magazine, June 2023 edition – written by Rachelle Dupree

https://www.dermascope.com/freedigital/June2023/?page=87

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are mild acids and gentle chemical exfoliants com­monly used in skin care treatments to improve the appearance and health of skin. First used in skin care in the 1970s, beta hydroxy acids are a type of hydroxy acid, or organic compounds containing a hydroxyl (OH) group.

AHAs vs BHAs

In the world of skin care products, the most common acid-based ingredients are beta hydroxy acids and alpha hy­droxy acids. Both are typically naturally derived from plant materials, although some are synthesized. While they both perform similar functions, the difference is the chemical com­pound structure between the two. While alpha hydroxy acids are separated from the hydroxy part of the molecule by one carbon atom, beta hydroxy acids are separated by two carbon atoms. This distinction means that common beta hydroxy ac­ids are oil-soluble and have a greater ability to penetrate the lipid layers between skin cells, while alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble and cannot penetrate skin at a deeper layer. This makes beta hydroxy acids the superior choice ingredient for treating acne.

SKIN CARE

Commonly derived from natural sources such as plants, tree bark, fruit, some dairy products, as well as synthetic sources, beta hydroxy acids have a number of beneficial prop­erties that make them useful for oily and acne-prone skin. Beta hydroxy acids’ oil-soluble structure also means they can break down dirt and other debris from skin to remove impuri­ties. This makes them effective at treating a variety of skin conditions including blackheads and whiteheads.

They also assist with basal cell layer stimulation and remove surface cells, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in addition to hyperpigmentation Beta hydroxy acids are also anti-inflammatory, meaning they can help reduce the redness and inflammation associated with acne and other skin conditions.

Salicylic Acid

One of the most common types of beta hydroxy acids is salicylic acid (a derivative of salicin), a natural ingredient de­rived from plants such as willow bark and oil of wintergreen. As a keratolytic medication, it is one of the most popular in­gredients in acne treatments and works by dissolving some of the deeper pore-clogging bonds between skin cells. This effect also produces easy exfoliation by softening or slough­ing off the top layer of skin.

It is generally considered safe for most skin types when used as directed. But be aware of contraindications for dry, sensitive skin or hyperreactive skin. It is also advised to re­frain from using products containing salicylic acid as an all­over body treatment – for instance, on large patches of acne­prone skin, like the back area – as this could contribute to salicylate poisoning.

PUT IT INTO PRACTICE

Beta hydroxy acids are a versatile and effective ingredi­ent that can be found in a variety of skin care products, in­cluding facial cleansers, facial serums, exfoliants, masks, and moisturizers. Most drugstores, beauty stores, online skin care shops, and even some grocery stores carry a variety of prod­ucts containing beta hydroxy acid ingredients. Depending on the skin care professional’s needs, private-label options are available in addition to professional skin care lines.

Products are typically applied to skin once or twice daily and may be combined with other active ingredients to en­hance their effect. It is important to only use complementary products in conjunction with beta hydroxy acids in the correct sequence to avoid negative interactions. When choosing beta hydroxy acid-based products, it is most important to choose the product with the right concentration for the client’s skin type and always follow any special instructions.

The Right Products

Cleansers: One of the easiest ways to incorporate beta hydroxy acids into a skin care routine is through a facial cleanser. When choosing a beta hydroxy acid-based facial cleanser, look for a product with a concentration of 0.5% to 2% beta hydroxy acids. Higher concentrations can be too harsh for some skin types while lower concentrations may not be effective. To help maintain healthy skin, these cleans­ers should only be used once or twice a week to improve skin tone and texture.

Serums: Beta hydroxy acids are most commonly incor­porated through facial serums, which are typically applied after cleansing and toning. When choosing a beta hydroxy acid-based serum, look for a product with a concentration of 1% to 2%.

Masks: Beta hydroxy acids in facial masks are typically used once or twice a week to deeply cleanse and exfoliate skin. Look for mask products with a concentration of 2% to 5% beta hydroxy acids.

FINAL CONSIDERATIONS

It is important to note that beta hydroxy acids can be harsh for some skin types and can cause dryness, redness, and irritation. If a client has sensitive skin, it is best to use beta hydroxy acid-based products sparingly and to patch test before using them on a larger area of the face. Additionally, professionals should recommend the use of a good quality sunscreen alongside.

Overall, beta hydroxy acids are a popular and effective skin care ingredient that can provide a variety of benefits for many skin issues. By incorporating beta hydroxy ac­ids into spa treatments, professionals can help their clients improve the appearance of their skin and reduce the risk of breakouts.

References

1. Arif, T (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent A comprehensive review. C inical, Cosmetic and lnvestigational Dermatology, 455-461. https://doi.org/10.2147 /ccid.s84765
2. Gancev1ciene, R, Uakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A, Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012) Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319. https://doi.org/10.4161/ derm.22804
3 Encycloped1a.com. (2020, August 12). Beta Hydroxy. Encycloped1a.com. Retrieved April 20, 2023, from https:/www.encyclopedia.com/medicine/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts· and-maps/beta-hydroxy

* Rachelle Dupree has over 20 years of experi­ence in marketing, media, communications, and design. She studied with a Denver-based herbal­ist and naturopath for four years, combining her marketing knowledge with her love of natural remedies and skin care. She currently contracts as a marketing and communications director for Vivoderm Natural Skincare and various design clients.

In recent years, a new player in the antiaging game has come onto the field and is growing in popularity–bakuchiol. Bakuchiol is a natural chemical compound extracted from the seeds of the bakuchi plant (psoralea corylifolia) and has been used in Ayurveda and traditional Chinese medicine for centuries.  Bakuchiol and other more natural alternatives like Rambhutan or Rosehip Seed Oil are promising to be just as effective as retinols for reducing the appearance of aging skin.

When it comes to skincare, retinoids are king. There are no other active ingredients—natural or synthetic—quite like them. Retinoids are a family of compounds derived from vitamin A, and the most commonly used one over the counter is retinol. The powerhouse ingredient has the ability to stimulate collagen and promote cell turnover, which can improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots, and acne. The miracle of it all, however, comes at a cost—red, dry, and flaky skin.

Bakuchiol, was first introduced for commercial use in topical applications around 2007 and recent research proves it to be a gentler alternative to the harsh vitamin A-derived retinols. Retinols have been around since the late 1940s and can be found in numerous over-the-counter skin care products. The most concentrated version (also known as Retin-A or tretinoin) is available by prescription only.

Retinols have historically been prescribed by dermatologists to treat inflammatory acne, scarring, hyperpigmentation, and wrinkles. It works primarily by sloughing off the top layer of skin, speeding up cellular turnover rates, rapidly exfoliating the skin, and decreasing the build-up of dead cells within the follicle.

Retinol can also be irritating to the skin, causing major side effects like irritation, peeling, redness, dryness, sun sensitivity, and can be difficult for those with sensitive skin to use.

Bakuchiol, as an alternative, provides a more natural and effective solution to traditional retinols. Bakuchiol was shown to possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties just like retinoids and was also found to be more stable than retinol. This makes it a great natural alternative to retinol, especially for those with sensitive skin conditions such as eczema or psoriasis.

Since 2013, numerous dermatological studies have been conducted comparing bakuchiol’s ability to mimic benefits of retinol and repeatedly found equivalent results to retinol performance. This has helped fuel a popularity boom for the new compound. In 2018, the “British Journal of Dermatology” published a randomized, double-blind, 12-week clinical study with 44 volunteers, which found bakuchiol to be comparable with retinol in its ability to improve photo-aging (wrinkles and hyperpigmentation) but with fewer negative skin reactions.

Another bonus to using bakuchiol over retinoids is the ability to incorporate it into one’s skincare routine at any time of day. Traditional retinoids can cause the skin to become photosensitive and prone to sun damage, so they are typically recommended only for use as a nighttime treatment. A variety of products can now be found on the market containing bakuchiol in varying levels of concentrations. For those who want the benefits of both retinol and bakuchiol, there are a few combination treatments available as well.  Now, the ingredient has popped up in eye creams, moisturizers, and face oils, so there’s no wrong way to incorporate it into your routine.

Written by Rachelle Dupree – amended for this post

Original article Published in Fact or Fiction, Dermascope Magazine Online: April, 2021. https://www.dermascope.com/fact-or-fiction/13117-is-bakuchiol-better-than-retinol

W MAGAZINE SKINCARE

08.05.21

Sleep is a restorative and crucial action that not only heals your mind and body, but your skin, too—especially after long, hot summer days. In fact, bedtime is a key point in your day to repair cellular damage inflicted by heat and sun. It also happens to be the optimal time for your skincare products to do their most effective work. That’s why it’s vital to choose the correct moisturizing products for your evening skincare routine. We’ve consulted a handful of top beauty experts to get their take on the most effective skin moisturizers for evening that thoroughly heal, protect, and nourish the skin—doing the work while we rest.

For an Even Deeper Hydration Boost

Vivoderm Intense Moisturizer

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A deep hydration solution that uses holistic ingredients formulated from Dr. Hadayat Adhami’s plant-based skincare line, Vivoderm. This multi-active cream, infused with aloe vera and chamomile, addresses uneven, dry skin that’s in desperate need of intense moisture, promising twelve hours of hydration. Celebrity makeup artist Mellody Vere says she uses the cream for its healing composition and overnight softening benefits. “This cream is super decadent and uses natural ingredients with no synthetics,” she adds. “I apply it at night and my skin drinks it up. It’s a great, clean, simple concoction to make your skin supple and vibrant naturally.”

When determining skin type, two different conversations quickly surface. There is the more beauty-focused skin type discussion that refers to how our skin feels, how much oil it produces and how it reacts to products (think: normal, dry, oily, etc.) and then there is the skin type discussion that focuses on how our skin reacts to the sun and its susceptibility to skin cancer symptoms (think: fair, medium, dark, etc.) Both branches of the skin type conversation root back to our genetics.

We are born with the skin we have and cannot do much to change its natural properties. That’s why understanding the nature of our skin — in all its forms — is important for keeping it healthy and looking good.

Below, we take a look at the two kinds of skin type and explain how you can determine and care for your individual type. For our purposes, we are going to refer to the two branches as “sun exposure skin type” and “beauty skin type.” But even though we are dividing them, it’s important to remember that every feature of our skin is intimately connected, and the way our skin reacts to beauty products may be closely related to how it responds to the sun.

Fitzpatrick Skin Type (Sun Exposure Skin Type)

The most widely used system for determining skin type and how it will react to the sun is the Fitzpatrick scale. Created by Harvard dermatologist, Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, in 1975, the scale was developed to determine the response of skin types to ultraviolet light. Dermatologists realized that looking at hair and eye color alone as a way to predict skin sensitivity to the sun was ineffective. They made this scale inclusive by looking at how patients’ skin reacted to the sun and cataloguing responses into a general scale.

The scale is divided into six different skin types. Check out the different indicators for each type to determine which category your skin falls into.

Once you know where you fall on the scale, it’s important to know how to care for your skin type:

Type 1: Type 1 skin types need to be the most careful in the sun. With the least amount of melanin in your skin, you are the most vulnerable to skin cancer. Try to use a sunscreen with a SPF of 30+ and seek shade whenever you are out in the sun. Be sure to check your skin head-to-toe each month for suspicious spots or moles.

Type 2: Type 2 skin types are also very susceptible to skin cancer and should practice precaution in the sun. While your fair skin will tan occasionally, it is good to wear a SPF of 30+ when in the sun and avoid being in direct sunlight for extended periods. Be sure to conduct regular, head-to-toe skin checks each month as well.

Type 3: As a type 3, you may burn at the beginning of the summer but tan easily afterwards. Your medium to olive skin tone is more protected than types 1 & 2 but it still requires a strong SPF of at least 30+ to stay safe. Try to check your skin for moles and spots every month, or at least every three months, to prevent skin cancer.

Type 4: Your medium-brown skin tans easily and rarely burns. You are less likely to get skin cancer, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t protect your skin from the sun’s harmful UV rays. Use an SPF of at least 15+ every day and avoid direct sun exposure.

Type 5: Type 5 skin tans very easily and seldom burns. Skin cancer is more rare for your skin type, but when skin cancer does occur it is usually detected at a later and higher-risk stage, usually on areas not directly exposed to the sun such as the palms of the hands. Use an SPF of 15+ while outside, and perform skin checks at least every three months to ensure that nothing goes undetected.

Type 6: As the darkest skin type, you almost never burn and tan very easily. But just because you never burn, doesn’t mean you are free of skin cancer risk. Still practice caution and use an SPF of 15+ to prevent damage to skin cells. Like Type 5, you are also more at risk for skin cancer in less exposed skin areas. Check your skin often for any changes or suspicious moles or spots.

Beauty Skin Type

Now that you know how your skin fairs in the sun, it’s time to identify the other factors that define your skin, specifically the skin on your face. While most skin exhibits features of multiple categories, having an idea of how your skin normally behaves will help you know how to care for it and which products to use.

To gain the best idea of which skin type you have, wash your face first and let it dry. Don’t put any products on it for an hour and see how it acts naturally. This will give you a good indication of its true nature.

Normal skin type

Normal skin is not too dry or oily; it falls in that desirable in-between place. Your skin normally has an even tone and a soft texture, with little flakiness. You may get an oily T-zone (the central area of your face including the chin, nose and the part of your forehead above your eyebrows) in hot weather, but generally, this area is oil-free. Lighter lotions and serums are ideal for your skin type because you don’t need much heavy product to keep your skin feeling great.

Dry skin type

Dry skin is characterized by small pores and an overall feeling of tightness. It often has more visible lines, less elasticity and a duller complexion. Moisture is key to caring for dry skin. Use lotions or creams to nourish your skin cells. If your skin feels dry but you still get breakouts, then you don’t have truly dry skin. Your skin may be feeling dry from the products you’re using.

Oily skin type

Oily skin tends to have larger pores, and a shiny, thicker feeling complexion. Blackheads and pimples are more common with this skin type. If you blot your face with a tissue and oil stays behind, then it’s likely that you have oily skin. Cleansing the face often and avoiding heavy creams and emollients is advised for minimizing the appearance of oil.

Combination skin type

While most of us have combination skin to some degree since there are more sebaceous glands around our nose, this skin type is marked by a consistently oily T-zone with dryness in other areas of the face. This is the most common skin type, and people with combination skin should consider using different products for different areas of the face to keep the skin balanced.

Additional Skin Type Factors

There are a few other features that contribute to skin type. It’s good to take these into account as well when figuring out what kind of skin you have.

Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin reacts easily to products and can breakout in rashes or become itchy. This is more likely in fair to medium skinned people but any skin type can have sensitivities. If you have sensitive skin, avoid harsh products and search for products that don’t clog or irritate the skin.

Acne-Prone

Skin can also be acne-prone. Acne of all kinds can occur at any age and on any area of the skin. Oily skin types are more likely to have acne but it can occur with all skin types. Consult a dermatologist to find an acne product and care routine that works for your unique skin problems.

Understanding all of the features of your skin may seem like a lot of work, but it is the best thing you can do to care for it properly. Once you understand how your skin responds to different elements, you can zero in on what products, treatments and safety precautions are ideal for you.

What kind of skin do you have? What are the best ways you’ve found to care for it? Let us know in the comments.

Originally written by Rachelle Dupree for Dermascope Magazine, January 2019 ©

https://www.dermascope.com/ingredients/9893-herbal-remedies-a-breakdown-of-cbd-oil

CBD is an abbreviation for cannabidiol. It is derived from hemp, a variant of the cannabis (marijuana) plant. Marijuana plants typically contain both THC and CBD, and these compounds have different effects depending on how the plant is grown and processed.

Recently, traditional medical practitioners, as well as holistic health experts, have begun recommending CBD oils and topical salve compounds to treat everything from anxiety, insomnia, and stress to some types of pain, inflammation, seizures, and even acne. This oil has also been proven to be a potent anti-inflammatory.

Unlike the high produced from THC, CBD is not psychoactive. This means that CBD does not change a person’s state of mind when they use it. Most hemp/cannabidiol products contain little, if any, THC.

In order to be effective as a topical or ingested treatment, CBD has to be safely concentrated. Products containing the CBD compound are now legal in many states in the United States where marijuana is not legal.
In June 2018, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved the prescription use of Epidiolex, a purified form of CBD oil, for treating two types of epilepsy. This has opened numerous paths of study for further pharmacological applications. The long-term results are still under evaluation, but many patients have reported markedly improved results for their ailments without the same side effects of other laboratory-formulated medicines.

So far, researchers have found no significant side effects on the central nervous system, vital signs, or mood – even among people who use high dosages.

CBD treatment options even branch out to cystic, chronic forms of acne, or acne vulgaris, caused by inflammation and overworked sebaceous glands.

How does it work? All cannabinoids, including CBD, produce effects in the body by attaching to certain receptors already present in the human body and brain. The main receptors present from CBD usage include the body’s own innate endocannabinoid system and CB2 receptors, which are more commonly found in the immune system. They affect inflammation and pain.

For those considering using CBD oils or topicals, doctors recommend buying only those products derived from organic hemp, processed without harsh solvents and pesticides. If possible, it is a good idea to view the certificates of analysis for each product to see exactly what is included. Ninety-nine percent of cannabidiol oil is available without a prescription and can be purchased online and in health food stores. To reduce inflammation, topical CBD is absorbed through the skin and into the fatty sheath around a painful or damaged nerve. At least one month of consistent treatment is recommended to feel results.

Anyone who is considering using CBD oils or topical creams should talk to a qualified healthcare practitioner beforehand. They can provide information about safe CBD sources, dosages, and local laws surrounding usage.

Cellulite Uncovered: Homecare and Medical Spa Treatments

Originally written by Rachelle Dupree for Dermascope Magazine, February 2018 ©

https://www.dermascope.com/treatments/cellulite-uncovered-homecare-and-medical-spa-treatments

© Originally published in Dermascope online magazine: http://www.dermascope.com/wholistic/understanding-hydrosols-and-essential-oils

Sun Protection and Photo Aging

“Photo-aging” is the term used to describe the damage that is done to the skin from prolonged exposure to the sun’s UV radiation The amount of photo aging that develops depends on different factors such as a person’s skin color and their history of long-term or intense sun exposure. Studies have shown that repeated ultraviolet (UV) exposure breaks down collagen and impairs the synthesis of new collagen. The sun also attacks our elastin causing the skin to become loose, wrinkled, and leathery.

young lady applying sunscreen at the beach

Ultraviolet radiation penetrates the layers of the skin. Both UVA and UVB rays cause damage leading to wrinkles, lower immunity against infection, aging skin disorders, and cancer. However, they appear to damage cells in different ways.

UVB rays are the main cause of sunburns, and primarily affects the outer skin layers. UVB is most intense at midday when sunlight is brightest. Slightly over 70% of the yearly UVB dose is received during the summer. Only 28% is received during the remainder of the year.

UVA rays penetrate more deeply and efficiently. The intensity of UVA rays is less dependent on the time of day and season of the year than UVB rays. For example, you receive only about half of your yearly UVA dose during the summer months, with the balance spread over the rest of the year.

Almost all dermatologists and doctors agree, sun protection products should be worn year round. It is important to apply sunscreen diligently during the summer months as it is most intense at this time. But just because you’re a mountain dweller, don’t think you can avoid the sun’s rays there either. UV rays are almost twice as harsh at higher altitudes.  Combined with the reflective snow surface, high altitude sun can damage skin at a surprisingly fast rate and cause just as much damage as sun burns on the beach.

Sunscreen Product Facts

• Broad spectrum only should be used.
• SPF is only related to UVB protection and does not provide a reference to the UVA protection in the product.
• All sunscreens will have UVB protection, which is reflected in the SPF.
• If skin sunburns in 10 minutes, a properly applied sunscreen SPF 15 means they will burn in 150 minutes
• Physical screens reflect light whereas chemical screens absorb UV converting the energy into heat
• SPF15 blocks 87.5% of UVB and SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB.

If you are looking for the best all around protection against UV rays, Zinc Oxide is your best choice. Zinc has a superior ability to protect your skin from UVA radiation. So, it is the natural, organic star of the skin care products available today. Zinc may leave a slight ‘white-cast’ on your skin, but considering the alternative chemical-laden, inflammatory or allergy-inducing options for sun protection today, zinc is an excellent choice for sensitive skin. Scientists are currently working on a “micro-fine” version of zinc to eliminate this effect without changing the power of the sunscreen itself.

Anti-Acne, Sun protection SPF 15

Always look for a sunscreen product that is dual-spectrum, meaning it blocks both UVA and UVB rays. UVA rays are the rays that cause wrinkles and skin aging, while UVB rays produce tans and burns. Applying sunscreen to not only the face but body is important. Sunscreen should be applied daily and even multiple times during the day depending on your outdoor activities. Sun protections no lower than SPF 30 should be applied to the face and body.

Many may also be unaware they can EAT for sun protection! Natural anti-oxidants from fresh berries, green tea, spirulina and many other foods act as natural barriers to the harmful effects of the sun.

The Sunscreen Product Debate – Potentially Harmful Ingredients of Sunscreens

You may be wondering, “How effective are sunscreens in protecting the skin against UVA and UVB rays from the sun? How harmful are their ingredients? Do sunscreens damage more than they protect?” Many have reported the very ingredients in sunscreens that offer sun protection, have also been found to have adverse side effects

While the debate between whether sunscreens are safe or not continues, chemical watchdog, the Environmental Working Group reported 84% of sunscreen products are harmful to consumers.

The bottom line is this. It is up to you as the informed consumer to research all skin care and sunscreen products you use, not only for efficacy but for safety as well. You only have one body, do your best to protect it and treat it well. Avoid prolonged exposure to the sun and take necessary precautions and measures to increase your natural sun protection factor and avoid future skin damage.

We all know that hydration is crucial and that drinking plenty of water optimizes the functions of the body. What some people forget is that the body needs not only to be hydrated from the inside but also from the outside. With the summer sun sapping moisture from your skin, it’s the perfect time to introduce ultra-moisturizing shea butter treatments into your skincare regimen.

Shea butter comes from nuts of karite trees, which are only found in the wild in the savannah regions of West and Central Africa. It is said Cleopatra used to smooth shea butter onto her body to counteract Egypt’s scorching climate. Centuries later, people around the world turn to this versatile skincare ingredient for all manner of applications from soothing scrapes to treating parched hair.

closeup of shea butter and shea nuts

Shea trees can live for 300 years, but they produce nuts only once annually. It takes about 15 to 30 years for karite trees to bear high-quality fruit that is later crushed and boiled to obtain a yellowish-colored fatty extract. According to the American Shea Butter Institute (ASBI), this product, which is rich in vitamins A, E, and F, is a superior moisturizer that contains remarkable healing properties for a variety of skin ailments, including eczema, psoriasis, and acne. It is also used to fortify and protect cell membranes, fade scars, minimize the appearance of stretch marks and wrinkles, improve hyperpigmentation, offer natural protection from harmful ultraviolet rays, and even relieve sinus problems. Shea butter is known as one of the most effective skin healers and moisturizers ever created. Originally used by African healers thousands of years ago, shea butter remains one of nature’s most potent skin rejuvenators and hydrators.

The ASBI recommends using the cold pressed shea butter that does not contain chemicals or preservatives. The ASBI classifies products as A, B, C or F. Class A is premium shea butter while class F is poor quality shea moisturizer. Pure shea butter is also edible and has long been used for cooking in many parts of Africa. Unrefined 100 percent shea butter is available at health food stores throughout the US.

This deeply nourishing product also has a low melting point, and it penetrates quickly when it comes in contact with the skin without leaving behind any greasy residue. Shea butter’s ease of use and myriad benefits have made it extremely popular and a darling on spa menus. Shea butter is high in oleic acid – a deeply moisturizing essential fatty acid that comprises the trademark thick texture. It’s also an ideal carrier for essential oil blends and mixes well with other oils such as fractionated coconut, jojoba and safflower.

While shea butter is effective on the body, it can also help people put their best faces forward and be a saving grace for those with troubled skin. Studies have shown it to be a natural anti-inflammatory agent. It decreases any acne flare-ups while naturally hydrating the skin, hence normalizing the sebum production to avoid future outbreaks – leaving the skin less oily.

Shea butter works well on all skin types, even sensitive skin. In addition, it boasts cinnamates and other compounds that may help inhibit enzymes that contribute to the inflammatory response.

The delicate and wrinkled eye area can benefit greatly from using shea butter to plump the skin around the eye area and help erase crow’s feet. Because the eye area does not have many oil glands, the skin around the eyes easily dehydrates without the ability to reproduce oil. The use of shea butter in eye cream provides a rich and healing source of hydration to penetrate the neglected eye area, keeping it supple and helping it retain moisture.

Also look for shea butter in your all over body creams and body butters. Shea butter and Coca Butter is used to help skin of all types heal and regain moisture levels and leave a silky finish. In addition to treating the delicate eye area, lips and lip lines can also be improved with shea butter. Not only does shea butter nourish the skin but it is also used to treat troubled tresses. Warm shea butter can be applied to the shaft of the hair to heal, protect, and penetrate every strand to make hair shinier, softer, and stronger. This treatment is perfect for people with dry, damaged, or over-processed hair as it promotes restructuring of the hair shaft. It’s beneficial to those who have been exposed to the sun and ocean, or extreme elements that are damaging and drying to the hair.

No matter what your outdoor preference is this summer –whether it is swimming, hiking or simply sunning – be sure to include versatile shea butter in your skin care treatment plans!

You can find almond oil in many natural skincare products today. Vivoderm uses Almond Oil in most of its natural facial lotions and body creams. The Vivoderm Chamomile Body Butter is a thick, rich all-over skin hydrator, perfect to protect your skin against for the cold, dry weather of winter.

Grown in the wilderness of Brazil, the tree and bark of the bitter almond tree (Prunus amygdalus amara) was used for tanning, while the fruit and nut was used for cooking and frying. In those times, nuts were sorted out and the bitter ones were used for ethenic oils in perfumeries and for the creations of industrial usages.

Due to the bitter acid of the nuts and the potential harm of constipation that was caused by the acid, especially in children, trees were cultivated to create a higher percent of sweet-tasting almonds. The almond trees originally started in minor Asia and then moved to China, the Mediterranean region, Spain, Malaga, Valencia, Island of Mallorca, southern France, southern Italy, Messina, Greece, North Africa, Algeria, Tunisia, Turkey, southern Russia, and the United States.

Bitter almonds (Geren amygdalus amara) consist of 30 to 50 percent fatty oils; 20 to 30 percent egg white; three to five percent sugar; two to three percent emulsion, lipase, and enzymes; and two to four percent amygdalin acid glycoside, which is converted into choline, asparagine, and vitamin C. Sweet almonds (Amygdalus dulcis) consists of 30 to 60 percent fatty sweet almond oil, 20 to 30 percent glucose, 10 percent saccharose, and two to three percent emulsifying and enzymatic properties. It is used in food, cosmetics, cough syrup, and other pharmaceutical preparations. A very small amount of bitter almond oil is still used in the bakery, pastry, candy, and liquor industries as it enhances and stimulates the taste of many products. In the preparation of food, almond oil can be used in salads and for cooking. A small amount of almond oil is often used to enhance flavors.

In the cosmetic industry, almond oil has many positive usages, including skin conditioning and enhancing the feel and penetration of facial creams, body lotions, hand and foot care, fragrance ingredients, soaps, cleansing products, hair care products, bath oils, sun tanning products, and makeup. The development of skin and body care products has unlimited possibilities with which to use almond oil to create a large variety of personal care products.

For corrective purposes, almond oil – as a carrier oil – is a neutral oil, therefore, it is used in many supplement recommendations. For muscle soreness and leg cramps, almond oil can be combined with a few drops of birch, borage, eucalyptus, evening primrose, ginger, lavender, peppermint, or wintergreen oils and rubbed on the ache or pain. To ease cramps in the calf muscle, rub the blend on the calf and flex the foot several times.

Blending lavender and chamomile oils with almond oil as a carrier can offer relief against sunburn. Almond oil as a carrier for chamomile oil is a remedy for many unpleasant occurrences.

Almond oil as a sedative is used in the pharmaceutical profession due to the following amino acids: alanine, magnesium, phenylalanine, and vitamin F. It is soothing and mollifying as a medicinal substance. Used internally, almond butter is tolerated by diabetics.

In many cases, the end price of a product determines the quality of the product. The purified almond oil used in cosmetic manufacturing is produced by grinding the kernel and pressing the oil out, whereby the bulk can be dried and used as abrasives in face and body masks or sold as sweet almond meal or sweet almond seed powder.

To take advantage of sweet almonds, there are several water-soluble extractions available: sweet almond flower extract, sweet almond bark extract, sweet almond bud extract, sweet almond fruit extract, and sweet almond fruit water. A sweet almond leaf cell extract was found to be a highly potent antioxidant skin protector. For hair conditioning, a combination of sweet almond protein and oil is very effective. One of almond oils biggest benefits is that it keeps the skin and hair looking great. It is considered a mild hypoallergenic oil that is safe for sensitive skin. When using the oil directly on the skin, which is done in some instances, it is wise to warm the oil to body temperature before use for better penetration into the skin. By combining almond oil with different essential oils, not only is the power of these oils tripled, but it also enhances the penetration since almond oil is considered an essential carrier oil in the skin care industry.

Folklore has offered many ideas and usages for the nut, which, of course, were never medically proven and registered. A few of these usages include helping to control ultraviolet radiation damage due to unprotected outdoor activity, helping to treat psoriasis and eczema, delaying general signs of aging, treating dark circles under the eyes, and helping with earaches in children.

Almond oil has a light, pleasant feel, but many people will reject the direct use of the oil as it leaves an oily look and feel to the skin.

There are nearly 20 different almonds worldwide. With the improvement of technologies and harvesting, processing techniques for California almonds are now used all over the world. California sweet almond oil can be blended with other oils or used by itself in major cosmetic production with unlimited benefits.

Author: Dr. Dieter Kuster. Originally published in Dermascope Magazine, Dec 2016

http://www.dermascope.com/resources/almond-oil

Herbology, which is also known as herbalism and herbal medicine, is the study and use of plants for medicinal purposes. Herbology and botanical studies can incorporate many different paths, including basic herbal pharmacology, physiology, nutrition, homeopathy, aromatherapy, and flower essences. Modern herbalists can use all or some of these options to heal a wide variety of traumas, diseases, and infections.

History

Most modern medical and pharmacological practices can trace their roots to ancient herbalism or traditional medicine in some form or another. In India, the practice of Ayurveda dates back thousands of years and emphasizes plant-based treatments, hygiene, and body-mind balance. Egyptian papyri dating back to 1550 B.C.E. have also been found to document medicine with a catalogue of useful plants and minerals. The Chinese and Greeks developed their own versions of herbal pharmacology around the first century C.E. with extensive herbal prescriptions and a new focus to treat the cause of diseases rather than the symptoms. In the Middle to Dark Ages, medical treatments became a strange combination of folklore, religion, and herbalistic practices that may or may not have been effective.

Modern Herbalisim

Modern invention and the scientific method took over many industrialized nations in the 18th and 19th centuries and quickly pushed aside traditional medicine and herbalist practices. Only those nations that did not develop economically stayed rooted in the old ways of healing. Herbalists were soon considered antiquated and their herbal treatments were passed over for chemical compounds and prescriptions. Yet, according to the World Health Organization, approximately 25 percent of modern drugs used in the United States have been derived from plants.

As a result of the rush to modernize society, many people in the new millennium are seeing destructive repercussions, including a prevalence of diseases and toxicity that did not exist before. The desire to return to how it was before has fueled a new interest in natural systems and the health benefits of organic living, sustainable farming, and herbalism.

Methods of Practice

Today’s certified or master herbalists will likely have been trained in one of the hundreds of professional schools or apprenticed under a licensed tutor or mentor. Most students focus on specific regional areas to become expert and their training should include in-depth botanical studies of native and non-native plants, diagnosis and treatment of conditions, and preparation and dispensation of herbal medications. Cultivating, harvesting, prepping, and storing are key factors to learning the best methods of preserving medicinal properties. Remedies can be prepared and administered as tinctures, salves, ointments, essential oils, teas, compresses, capsules, or tablets.

Herbal treatments can also be used alone or in combination with standardized scientific methods to supplement treatments, depending on the condition and diagnosis. While the debate about science versus nature continues, it is up to the individual to determine the method of treatment that is most beneficial for them.

by Rachelle Dupree, marketing and communications director for Vivoderm Natural Skincare
O c t o b e r 2 0 1 6 | D E R M A S C O P E

Detail of garden lavender flowers

Lavender is a hardy, fragrant shrub that has narrow leaves and grey-blue flowers and can grow to a height of three feet. While the aroma of lavender can be found throughout the entire plant, essential oil can only be obtained from the flower. Originally grown in the mountains of Europe, in poor but well-drained soils, lavender is now grown worldwide. However, the primary aromatherapy producers are France, Bulgaria, Croatia, and Russia.

HISTORY

The word lavender often conjures wonderful images of purple colored fields in the south of France. Sometimes referred to as the Swiss army knife of herbs, lavender has been used throughout history. The Persians, Greeks, and Romans all used lavender to disinfect their sick rooms. The term lavender is derived from the Latin word ‘lavare,’which means to wash. With its many cleansing capabilities, lavender was the Romans’aromatic and medicinal choice for scenting their bathwater and making ointments to heal the body.

During the Great Plague, lavender was part of four thieves’ vinegar, a mixture that was said to be used with great success by grave robbers in order to avoid contracting the deadly disease. It also has a long history in the development of modern aromatherapy. Maurice Gattefosse’s observation of the dramatic healing effect of lavender oil when he burned his hand in a laboratory accident led him to research essential oils in greater depth. Dr. Jean Valnet used lavender oil to treat serious burns and war injuries when he was a French army surgeon. The medicinal use of lavender, especially in essential oils, continues today with good reason.

There are many different varieties of lavender, some of which are considered more important because of their specific properties. The most common plants are spike lavender (Lavandula spica), French lavender (Lavandula stoechas), and true lavender or English lavender (Lavandula officinalis or Lavandula angustifolia).

CHEMISTRY

To truly understand lavender, its chemistry needs to be explored, including linalyl acetate – an ester that is anti-inflammatory – and linalool, an alcohol that gives lavender its antiseptic properties. When buying lavender for clinical uses, true lavender 40/42 is required, with the numbers representing the required minimum percentage of these two particular pieces of chemistry. In comparison, Bulgarian lavender has a gentler aroma and has linalyl acetate and linalool in percentages of 38/40. It is important to know the country of origin of any of the essential oils being used in the spa because its location of growth, climate, harvesting techniques, and distillation temperature all determine its chemistry and, therefore, its properties.

For example, a dry and hot summer will create a higher percentage of esters than a damp summer would. Furthermore, Alpine lavender is always higher in esters than plants grown at lower altitudes. Alpine lavender also has a more camphorous smell, but it is more useful for treating respiratory conditions. The chemistry of this oil is also unique in a different way.

It not only has the ability to have its own action enhanced by other oils, but, in turn, it also heightens the action of the oils it is mixed with. In the process of custom blending oils for a client, lavender should be considered in most blends for its ability to bring a blend of oils together in their action and aromatic odor.

USING LAVENDER IN THE SPA

Of all the essential oils used in clinical aromatherapy, lavender is undoubtedly the most versatile, with a wide range of properties from analgesic to antiseptic. It is an essential oil that should be in every first aid kit in every spa. As a sedative, lavender is very effective;
when used as an inhalation at night, it will aid in sleep. A small amount of lavender oil can be massaged onto the throat to relieve a cough. The sedative action of the oil will calm the cough. Lavender will also relieve many forms of headaches if massaged onto the temples. For best results, combine it with peppermint and eucalyptus in a cold pressed oil and gently massage it onto the temples and the back of the neck.

Another popular use for lavender is in the relief of muscle and joint pain. Because it is considered an analgesic, it is best used in a massage treatment or in a bath and should be combined with other analgesic oils, such as rosemary, black pepper, clove, and peppermint. Muscle pain, menstrual pain, and arthritic pain can all benefit from the application of the oil, resulting in reduced inflammation and the calming of the central nervous system. As an antiseptic, it is also soothing and anti-inflammatory, thus making it very useful for many skin conditions. Its delicate aroma also lends itself to being blended in creams and lotions, usually in a dilution of one percent to two percent.

In the spa, lavender is very valuable in the treatment of acne. As an antiseptic and anti-inflammatory, it not only inhibits the bacteria causing the infection, but also calms the redness associated with acne. Furthermore, it can be blended with ylang ylang to help reduce sebaceous flow. Lavender can also help in many cases of eczema and blends well with chamomile and peppermint to calm the skin. When using lavender for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, be sure to use it in low dilutions of less than one percent.

One of the most important properties of lavender is its ability to restore unbalanced states, whether of mind or body, to a place in which healing can occur. With summer just around the corner, consider lavender for its insecticidal properties. When combined with oils such as lemon, citronella, eucalyptus, and tea tree, it makes a great mosquito repellant, as well as a lotion for the treatment of insect bites. Lavender can also be used to alleviate sunburns and sunstrokes when prepared in a light lotion, cold compress, or cold gel.

It has been used for centuries to protect clothes and linens from moths. When combined with oils such as myrrh, lemongrass, and tea tree, lavender can be used as fungicidal for the treatment of athlete’s foot and other fungal infections.

MIND AND SPIRIT

Lavender oil is useful for relieving stress. Stress that becomes counterproductive on a physiological level involves either the sympathetic or parasympathetic nervous system. Sympathetic hyperfunctioning is triggered more by physicalstress while parasympathetic hyperfunctioning is caused more by emotional stress. Lavender oil will inhibit both the sympathetic and parasympathetic nervous system functions. By selectively inhibiting either sympathetic or parasympathetic nervous excess, lavender can assist responses to unproductive stress of any kind.

Salvatore Battaglia quotes Peter Holmes as suggesting the use of lavender in acute crisis situations dominated by sudden, unpredictable, and spontaneous features. Holmes also states that lavender can promote personal renewal in every way by washing away past habits and opening clients up to new possibilities. (1) It helps by producing inner acceptance of a painful situation, easing fear, and creating the strength that allows people to move on.

Lavender has been the focus of many clinical trials and is being used in hospital wards as a massage oil, a vapor to help dispel anxiety, and an alternative to orthodox drugs to help patients sleep. Gabriel Mojay equates lavender with Virgo, the astrological sign. He speaks of the characteristics of Virgo to include oversensitivity and inhibition, using lavender to “calm the nervous anxiety that results in shyness and embarrassment.”(2)

Lavender should be used wisely because, while a small amount is calming, too much can be stimulating. Always remember that as popular as lavender is, it is not everyone’s favorite aromatic oil, but if it is blended well with other oils, clients will greatly benefit from its amazing, medicinal properties.

References
1 Battaglia, S. (2003). The Complete Guide to Aromatherapy. Brisbane: International Centre
of Holistic Aromatherapy.
2 Mojay, G. (1999). Aromatherapy for Healing the Spirit: Restoring Emotional and Mental Balance
with Essential Oils. Rochester, VT: Healing Arts Press.

Author Trish Green, director of sales and marketing for Eve Taylor North America, has been an educator for 40 years. She is an international speaker, educating aesthetician across the United States and Canada. As a CIDESCO aesthetician and a homeopath, she specializes in the wellness approach in her aesthetic practice, offering a unique approach to the treatment of clients in the spa.

Dermascope Magazine, July 2016

by Rhonda Allison

(Excerpts from April 2016 issue of Dermascope magazine, featuring the Vivoderm Anti-Aging Mask).

Milk has been used throughout history to care for the skin. Many people are familiar with Cleopatra’s fabled milk baths and, as it turns out, numerous other noble women throughout history followed suit. These women realized the youth-preserving benefits that milk provided the skin. Milk is immensely rich in nutrients, including proteins, lipids, vitamins, minerals, and, of course, the ingredient that is responsible for its cell-regenerating abilities: lactic acid.

Today, lactic acid is used in aesthetics and skin care to deliver a host of benefits to the skin and correct signs of aging, acne scarring, dehydration, discoloration, and more.

What is Lactic Acid?
L-lactic acid is a keratolytic alpha hydroxy acid that is also known as ‘milk acid.’ It is gentler than glycolic
acid and provides exfoliation without provoking irritation. It also softens the skin, increases desquamation, stimulates cell regeneration, improves the skin’s texture, and has natural brightening abilities.

(Chemical / Technical Details)

Lactic acid is also chiral in that it contains two optimal isomers. Essentially it has two parts: a left-handed part and a right-handed part. This is why lactic acid is often accompanied by an ‘L.’ This letter denotes the
chirally-correct molecule of the acid is being used. The ‘L’ form is absorbed more easily by the skin and increases the overall performance.

The body naturally produces lactic acid during normal metabolism and exercise. When the demand for energy spikes in the body, such as during strenuous or power workouts, glucose is broken down and oxidized to pyruvate, which then stimulates the production of lactate. This process is beneficial because it helps ensure energy production is maintained. Even during rest, lactate continues to be produced as a result of metabolism in red blood cells that lack mitochondria.

Some research has even shown lactate to play an important role in early-stage development for brain metabolism and as an energy source for the brain in the metabolism of neurons.

L-lactic acid is an important alpha hydroxy acid that may be used in peels, facials, and homecare regimens to help correct the signs of aging, hyperpigmentation, some acne and acne scarring, uneven tone and texture, and more.

While many alpha hydroxy acids are derived from fruit, lactic acid is most-commonly derived from fermented milk or sugar (or yogurt) and is considered a non-toxic, active, and organic substance.

Common Uses for Lactic Acid

Although L-lactic acid may be used to help correct numerous skin issues, it is particularly beneficial in the treatment of aging. It also works well for sensitive skin and skin of color, which may be more prone to dryness, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and discoloration. Acid selection will, of course, always vary by person and should be chosen based on specific skin type and goals.

In treating aging skin, L-lactic acid really shines. It stimulates cell turnover and collagen production to firm sagging skin, sheds pigmented cells, brightens the overall tone, and delivers hydration beyond the surface. Because of its exfoliating capabilities, this acid allows for more efficient penetration than other pro-youth ingredients.

It also increases dermal and epidermal thickness, thus revealing more firmness and less fine lines and wrinkles. While lifting epidermal cells, lactic acid stimulates the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid at the cellular level, resulting in smoother and younger-looking skin. In the treatment of acne, L-lactic acid helps to loosen follicle impactions, reduce corneocyte cohesion, and thicken the corneum layer. It also helps stimulate cell turnover and tissue regeneration while delivering important hydration and brightening benefits.

For hyperpigmentation and other sun-induced discolorations, L-lactic acid is beneficial for many skin types and provides exfoliation and skin-brightening support. It is also gentler than glycolic acid and typically does not induce skin irritation.

When properly used, L-lactic acid is an invaluable tool in the treatment room and at home to correct the visual signs of aging, effectively treat acne, and brighten and even the skin tone. Taking a daily milk bath is not necessary, but a daily dose of lactic acid will provide many benefits for your skin.

Anti Aging Facial Mask
Vivoderm Natural Skincare
310-270-0986
vivoderm.com

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Dermascope magazine featuring The Vivoderm Anti Aging Daily Moisturizer January 2015.

“The Anti Aging Daily Moisturizer by Vivoderm is a new, oil-free facial moisturizer infused with comfrey, aloe vera and vitamin E to erase wrinkles and fine lines and heal aging skin. This gentle, fragrance-free moisturizer is super lightweight and ideal for normal to combination skin types. It provides potent natural ingredients for skin moisture and balance. St. John’s Wort and Rosemary supply anti-aging and antioxidant benefits while sage and grape seed soothe and tone the skin.”

Twelve Days of Leaping Bunny ran on December 1214 through a Leaping Bunny web link posted through their social media sites. Each promo unveiled something special each day exclusive to Leaping Bunny fans and followers. Vivoderm was featured on December 12 with our travel kit promo and online store discounts.

DERMSTORE HOLIDAY GUIDE, December 2014

Featuring the Vivoderm Intense moisturizer with our Anti Wrinkle Eye Cream as a  gift with purchase (GWP).