Understanding Exfoliation

Your skin undergoes a natural turnover cycle every 30 days or so. When this happens, the upper layer of your skin (epidermis) sheds, revealing new skin from the middle layer of your skin (dermis).

However, the cell turnover cycle isn’t always so clear-cut. Sometimes, dead skin cells don’t fully shed, leading to flaky skin, dry patches, and clogged pores. You can help your body shed these cells through exfoliation.

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the outer layers of the skin with a substance or tool known as an exfoliator. Exfoliators come in many forms, from chemical treatments to brushes.

It can be also beneficial for removing dry or dull skin, increasing blood circulation, and brightening and improving your skin’s appearance.

There are different methods for exfoliation. Your skin type should determine which method you use and how often you exfoliate. For certain skin conditions, including rosacea, exfoliation isn’t usually recommended.

What to use to exfoliate

There are different methods and tools to exfoliate skin. Facial scrubs and brushes are forms of mechanical, or physical, exfoliation. Acids and skin peels are forms of chemical exfoliation.

Mechanical

• Exfoliating brush. This is usually a bristle brush used on the face or body to remove layers of dead skin cells. Some are designed for dry brushing. Others can be used with your facial cleanser or body wash.
• Exfoliation sponge. These are a gentler way to exfoliate skin. You can lather an exfoliating sponge with warm water, soap, or body wash in the shower.
• Exfoliating glove. If you find brushes or sponges difficult to grip, you can use a glove. Lather it with soap or body wash in the shower. They can be effective for large areas such as legs or arms.
• Exfoliating scrub. This can be applied directly to the skin using a gentle, circular motion. You can wash your skin with warm water after applying the scrub.

Chemical

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs). Examples of AHAs include glycolic, lactic, tartaric, and citric acids. These work by breaking apart bonds holding dull and dead skin cells on your skin’s surface. This will cause your skin to naturally shed dead particles.

Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs). Examples of BHAs include beta hydroxyl and salicylic acid. These may be better for acne-prone skin.

How to exfoliate your skin by skin type

When mechanically exfoliating, it’s important to be gentle on your skin. You can make small, circular motions using your finger to apply a scrub or use your exfoliating tool of choice.

If you use a brush, make short, light strokes. Exfoliate for about 30 seconds and then rinse off with lukewarm — not hot — water. Avoid exfoliating if your skin has cuts, open wounds, or is sunburned. Apply moisturizer with SPF after exfoliating.

Dry skin

Exfoliation is important for dry or flaky skin. Avoid mechanical exfoliation on dry skin, because the process is drying and it can lead to microtears. AHAs are effective for dry skin.

Glycolic acid will help remove dead cells sitting on the surface of the skin and encourage healthy skin turnover. Follow up with an SPF and moisturizer after using glycolic acid. It can make the skin more prone to sun damage.

Sensitive skin

Avoid scrubbing or using mechanical methods of exfoliation. These will irritate your skin further and can lead to redness.

Use a mild chemical exfoliator and apply with a gentle washcloth. For acne, you can also try a salicylic acid peel at your dermatologist’s office.

Oily skin

Oily or thicker skin can benefit from manual exfoliation and brushing. Oily skin may have an extra layer of buildup on the surface that manual exfoliation can remove. Gently use an exfoliator or scrub in circular motions for best results.

Normal skin

If your skin doesn’t have any complications, you can choose any method of exfoliation. Manual and chemical exfoliation are both safe for this skin type. You may need to experiment to find out which method works best for your skin.

Combination skin

Combination skin may require a mix of mechanical and chemical exfoliation. Never use both on the same day as it can irritate skin. If your skin feels dry after exfoliation, use a moisturizer immediately after.

Exfoliation by body part

Take care when exfoliating sensitive areas of the body, including the face. Exfoliating these areas too often can lead to dryness, redness, and itchiness.

Face

The type of exfoliant to use on your face depends on your skin type. To exfoliate your face mechanically with a scrub, apply gently to the skin with a finger. Rub in small, circular motions. Rinse with lukewarm water.

For a chemical exfoliant that’s a liquid, apply with a cotton pad or washcloth. Work with a dermatologist to determine which type of exfoliation is safe for your skin.

Arms and legs

The easiest way to exfoliate your arms and legs is with a brush, sponge, or glove. This can help get rid of dead skin cells and stimulate circulation. Look for a body scrub at your local pharmacy or online and lather with it in the shower. You can also try dry brushing.

Feet and hands

There are scrubs and peels available to exfoliate feet and hands. You can also use a pumice stone to exfoliate feet.

Body

You can use a loofah or body brush to exfoliate your body and bikini area. Always do this in a warm shower to soften skin first. Use any device or scrub gently and wash thoroughly afterward.

 

How often should you exfoliate? 

How often to exfoliate depends on your skin type and the type of exfoliation you’re using. Some chemical exfoliants can be strong, for example. In general, exfoliating skin one to two times a week is enough to be effective for dry skin.

Oily skin may require more frequent exfoliation. Avoid over-exfoliating as it can lead to redness and irritation. Talk to your dermatologist if you need help figuring out how often it’s safe for you to exfoliate.

Exfoliating benefits

The benefits of exfoliation include:

• removing dead skin cells
• improving circulation
• encouraging skin turnover, resulting in brighter skin
• allowing for better absorption of moisturizers and serums

When to stop exfoliating 

Stop exfoliating if you notice your skin is red, inflamed, peeling, or irritated. Avoid exfoliation if you also use certain medications or acne products, including retinol and benzoyl peroxide. It may make your skin worse or lead to breakouts.

Know your skin type

Before choosing an exfoliator, it’s important to know what type of skin you have. Keep in mind that your skin type can change with age, weather changes, and lifestyle factors, such as smoking.

There are five major skin types:

• Dry. This skin type is more likely to have dry patches and requires more moisture. You probably notice that your skin gets even dryer in cold, dry weather.
• Combination. This skin type isn’t dry, but it isn’t all-out oily, either. You may have an oily T-zone (nose, forehead, and chin) and dryness around your cheeks and jawline. Combination skin is the most common skin type.
• Oily. This skin type is characterized by excess sebum, the natural oils produced by the sebaceous glands underneath your pores. This often leads to clogged pores and acne.
• Sensitive. This type of skin is easily irritated by fragrances, chemicals, and other synthetic materials. You can have sensitive skin that’s also dry, oily, or combination.
• Normal. This type of skin doesn’t have any dryness, oiliness, or sensitivity. It’s pretty rare, as most people’s skin has at least some oiliness or dryness.

You can see a dermatologist or esthetician to help you determine your skin type. You can also do it at home by following these steps:

1. Wash your face, making sure to remove any makeup well.
2. Dry your face, but don’t apply any toner or moisturizer.
3. Wait one hour and then gently dab a tissue over different parts of your face.

Here’s what you’re looking for:

• If the tissue absorbs oil over your entire face, then you have oily skin.
• If the tissue only absorbs oil in certain areas, you have combination skin.
• If the tissue doesn’t have any oil, you have either normal or dry skin.
• If you have any scaly or flaky areas, you have dry skin.

While it might seem like dry skin is the only type that would have flakes of dead skin cells, this can happen with any skin type. So even if you find some flakes, you’ll want to use an exfoliator that’s best suited for your skin type.

Chemical exfoliation

While it sounds harsh, chemical exfoliation is actually the gentlest exfoliation method. Still, make sure you follow all of the manufacturer’s instructions because you can easily overdo it.

Alpha hydroxy acids

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are plant-based ingredients that help to dissolve dead skin cells on the surface of your face. They work best for dry to normal skin types.

Common AHAs include:

• glycolic acid
• citric acid
• malic acid
• lactic acid

Note, if you’ve never used AHAs, consider starting with a product that just contains one AHA so you can track how your skin reacts to specific ones.

Beta hydroxy acids

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) remove dead skin cells from deep in your pores, which can help to reduce break outs. They’re a good option for oily and combination skin as well as skin that has acne scars or sun spots.

One of the best-known BHAs is salicylic acid, which you can find in many drugstore exfoliators.

Enzymes

Enzyme peels contain enzymes, usually from fruits, that remove dead skin cells on your face. Unlike AHAs or BHAs, enzyme peels won’t increase cellular turnover, meaning it won’t expose a fresh layer of skin. This makes them an especially good option for people with sensitive skin.

Mechanical exfoliation

Mechanical exfoliation works by physically removing dead skin rather than dissolving it. It’s less gentle than chemical exfoliation and works best for normal to oily skin. Avoid using mechanical exfoliation on sensitive or dry skin.

Powders

Exfoliating powders, like our herbal facial mask (Anti-Aging and Acne) use fine particles to both absorb oil and remove dead skin. To use it, mix the powder with some water until it forms a paste that you can custom-blend to your skin type and needs. For stronger results or spot treatments, use less water to create a thicker paste.

Dry brushing

Dry brushing involves using soft bristles to brush dead skin cells away. Use a small brush with natural bristles, and gently brush damp skin in small circles for up to 30 seconds. You should only use this method on skin that’s free of any small cuts or irritation.

Washcloth

If you’re one of the lucky few with normal skin, you may be able to exfoliate just by drying your face with a washcloth. After washing your face, gently move a soft washcloth in small circles to remove dead skin cells and dry your face.

 

What not to use

Regardless of your skin type, avoid exfoliators that contain irritating or coarse particles, which can injure your skin. When it comes to exfoliation, not all products are created equal. Many scrubs that have exfoliants in them are too harsh for your skin.

Stay away from exfoliators that contain:

• sugar
• beads
• nut shells
• microbes
• coarse salt
• baking soda

Important safety tips

Exfoliation usually leaves you with smoother, softer skin. To maintain these results, make sure you follow up with a good moisturizer that’s best for your skin type.

If you have dry skin, opt for a cream moisturizer, which is richer than a lotion one. If you have combination or oily skin, look for a light, oil-free lotion or gel-based moisturizer.

While you probably already know about the importance of wearing sunscreen, it’s even more important if you’ve been exfoliating.

Acids and mechanical exfoliation remove a full layer of skin from your face. The newly exposed skin is very sensitive to sunlight and much more likely to burn. Try to use a natural mineral-based sunscreen with ZINC or TITANIUM OXIDES, like the Vivoderm Zinc Repairing Facial Moisturizer which doubles as a moisturizer with 25%SPF.

In addition, you should be extra cautious with exfoliation if you have:

• an active acne breakout
• an underlying condition that causes lesions on your face, such as cold sores
• rosacea
• warts

Finally, before trying any new product on your skin, do a small patch test first. Apply a little bit of the new product to a small area of your body, like the inside of your arm. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application and removal.

If you don’t notice any signs of irritation after 24 hours, you can try using it on your face.

The bottom line

Proper exfoliation is effective in removing dead skin from your face. This will leave you with smoother, softer skin. If you wear makeup, also notice that exfoliation helps it to go on more evenly.

Just make sure you start slow to determine which products and types of exfoliants your skin can handle, and always follow up with moisturizer and sunscreen!

One of the questions we hear the most in the skincare industry is, “Do I still need a facial moisturizer in the warm, summer months?”

The answer is undoubtedly “Yes!”

You want to pay attention to texture and formulations, but ALL skin types – even oily skin – still need to hydrate and moisturize in the summer.

And don’t forget, there IS a difference between body lotions and facial creams – never mix the two.  Heavier formulations of body creams could cause your delicate facial skin to break out or hyper-react.

Let’s break down some of the most common skin types and what  types of moisturizer or facial cream to use.

1. NORMAL SKIN

Most normal skin reflects the changing seasons, loosing hydration and becoming more dry in the winter months and slightly more oily or hydrated when the summer comes.

Excessive indoor heating, warm baths and less humidity during winter months will require heavier, richer facial creams usually blended with a base of oil.  So, alternatively, normal skin will require a lighter moisturizer.  Look for water-based versions or vitamin-rich serums or ceramides.  Ultra-light facial lotions will absorb well into the skin while limiting excess oil production.  Water-based lotions should included natural ingredients calm sun-damaged inflammation, such as chamomile, Calendula and Aloe vera.  Also look for Vitamins E and A for natural anti-aging properties.

2. COMBINATION / ACNE-PRONE SKIN

Similar to normal skin, but oily in the T-zone, combination skin may require using two different moisturizers if your skin type is very unbalanced.  Stick with the same water-based moisturizer on the whole facial area as for normal skin, but use combinations of herbal properties for the oiler-T-zones of the forehead, nose and chin.  For instance, on the normal-skin areas of the cheeks and neck, use the lighter formulations with natural anti-redness and sun-healing herbs mentioned above like Aloe vera and Calendula or Oatmeal.  Then for the T-zone, choose herbal ingredients that help keep excess oil and breakouts in check – like lavender, rosemary and green tea.

3. OILY SKIN

Despite the false myth that oily skin doesn’t need any additional moisture – the opposite is actually true.  Even oily skin responds with more balanced oil production when you ADD moisture.  Choose a lighter Vitamin infused serum or herbal formula that does double duty for oil production and anti-aging including Vitamin E, A, C and Rosemary.

4. DRY SKIN

To keep flakiness and wrinkles at bay, dry skin types still demand a heavier version of facial moisturizer for summer – a richer cream vs. a light lotion or serum. You might continue to use the same brand or formulation from your winter skincare routine, but spritz your face first with a refreshing toner or witch hazel to help dilute the cream and increase absorption.  Choose herbal formulas that help your skin fight free-radicals and sun damage with natural Zinc Oxide and Vitamin E and C.

And as always, NO skin care facial routine would be complete without SPF or sun protection.  The Vivoderm Zinc Repairing Facial Cream combines natural Zinc Oxide sun protection with an oil-based moisturizer and natural herbs to provide 15 SPF coverage for your daily routines.  For longer sun exposure, use a higher SFP, like 50-60 when possible.

Combination skin is characterized by a mixture of oiliness and dryness. Typically, the oily areas tend to be the T-zone, consisting of the forehead, nose and chin. The cheeks are normal to dry. The degrees of oiliness and dryness can vary. Pores may be larger in the oily areas – with pimples, blackheads and breakouts sometimes occurring – and dry areas may feel rough and irritated.

The “tissue test” can help you determine if you have combination skin. Take a tissue and hold/press it against your face. If there’s oil on the tissue where it touched your T-zone, but no oil where the tissue touched your cheeks, you most likely have combination skin.

Causes
Many factors can cause combination skin, including hormones, age, genetics, the way in which lipids are organized in our skin and even the weather. Hormonal changes can lead to changes in skin’s oiliness or dryness. Teens and young adults tend to have oilier skin, especially in the T-zone, but with age, hormones change and the oil production may decrease (but unfortunately, acne is still an issue for many adults). Also, hormones change due to menstruation and the birth control pill, which can make skin oilier in certain areas. Lipids also play a role in combination skin: These proteins affect skin’s softness and feel. When lipids aren’t evenly spread throughout the skin, certain areas will feel drier and rougher, while other areas may feel soft but oily or greasy. The organization of lipids in skin is due to genetics and hormones. Finally, weather can exacerbate combination skin. Dry cold weather can cause skin to dry out and become irritated. Conversely, hot humid weather can increase oil production. This can affect your T-zone as well as your cheeks.

Care Plan
Combination skin requires special care to balance the oily and dry areas of the face. Proper cleansing, treatment, moisturizing and sun protection are all necessary.

• Cleansing: People with combination skin often have difficulty finding a cleanser that works for their unique skin needs. Formulas designed for oily skin may leave combination skin too dry, especially in the cheeks, while formulas designed for dry skin may leave combination skin greasy, especially in the T-zone. It’s best to avoid products that are either too drying or too rich. Instead, use a foaming or gel cleanser to get rid of dirt and oil without causing irritation or dryness. A cleanser to try is one that removes excess oil and impurities while still being gentle and not drying out skin.
You should also exfoliate your skin regularly to remove dry, dead, rough skin cells. These cells may be particularly prominent on your cheeks. They can flake off and block pores, causing blemishes and blackheads. Try a product that might include papaya and pineapple juice, olive derivatives and Ginkgo Biloba

Treatments: Treatment products are another important skincare component, helping to balance your skin. One treatment to try is one which moisturizes dry areas but prevents excess oil, especially in the T-zone. This product also contains antioxidants to prevent aging. Another type of treatment is a mask, and you’ll find an array of products for every skin type. Some experts advise using a hydrating/moisturizing mask on dry areas (cheeks) and a deep-cleaning clay mask on oily areas (T-zone). While using two different masks is certainly an option, you can also use a mask specifically designed for combination skin. If you suffer from breakouts, which may occur around the T-zone, use acne treatment products with salicylic acid. For problem skin, try a blemish serum or a spot treatment.

Moisturize: Combination skin needs balance, and part of that balance means moisturizing your skin. Moisturizing is especially important for drier areas of the face, but your entire face needs moisture. Some experts suggest using separate moisturizers – a lightweight one for the T-zone and a deeper one for cheeks. You may choose to use separate moisturizers, but you can also use a single moisturizer designed for combination skin. Try a lotion which balances skin with witch hazel and aloe extract to help skin stay soft. Pay careful attention to dry areas, as they may require more frequent moisturizing than oily areas. Generally, experts recommend moisturizing dry areas twice a day and moisturizing oily areas once a day. Keep in mind that your individual skin has unique needs, so you might want to adjust your moisturizer – how often you use it, where you need it and how much you need.

Sun Protection: Like all other skin types, combination skin needs protection from the sun. UVA and UVB rays can damage skin, so use oil-free sunblock all over your face daily (and on any other exposed areas). Try an oil-free sunlotion or sunblock because it protects your skin from UV rays and won’t make skin greasy.

Natural Treatments
Natural treatments such as aromatherapy oils, home-made exfoliants and masks may help treat your combination skin. For example, try mixing essential oils like chamomile, lavender and ylang ylang (just a few drops) together with your oil-free moisturizer. These ingredients have antibacterial properties and may help to rid skin of dirt or bacteria. However, if your skin is sensitive or easily irritated, or if you’re pregnant, you shouldn’t use these essential oils.

Exfoliating treatments can be made at home by mixing and grinding nuts, seeds or oatmeal along with water. These will slough off dead, dry skin cells – especially common around the cheeks. You can add citrus peels from fruit – like orange or grapefruit – to the mix and apply it to the oily T-zone.
To make a mask for dry areas, use ingredients like yogurt, mashed bananas or avocados to moisturize. On oilier areas, try pureed strawberries and apples.