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Understanding Hydrosols and Essential Oils

Written by Rachelle at Vivoderm on . Posted in Anti-Aging, Herbal Treatments, Ingredients, Natural Skincare, Products, Recent Articles, Vivoderm Press

© Originally published in Dermascope online magazine: http://www.dermascope.com/wholistic/understanding-hydrosols-and-essential-oils

Many aestheticians and spa owners today are looking to new trends and technology to increase their client base and services. In light of the growing organic lifestyle preferences, why not look to ancient remedies. as well? Aromatherapy and treating ailments with essential oils is a practice thousands of years old that has seen a resurgence of popularity in the last few decades. A lesser-known component of the essential oil making process is called a hydrosol.

Many have never heard of hydrosols or may have confused them with cheaper, adulterated versions of flower waters. Incorporating natural hydrosols and essential oils into salons or spa treatments can offer exciting, new options to clients and increase revenue streams.

WHAT IS A HYDROSOL? 
Hydrosols are the condensate result of steam distillation of plants or flowers produced when creating a natural essential oil. The top floating layer of essential oil is removed and the remaining 90 percent of the water is considered hydrosol.

Hydrosol is a chemistry term meaning “water solution.” In Latin, “hydro” – meaning water – and “sol” – meaning solution. The terms “hydrosol” and “herbal distillates” are most common to the United States. In France, the top producer of modern fragrances, the term changes to “hydrolait,” meaning water-milk. The terms, floral water, herbal water, toilet water, and aqua vitae are commonly interchanged with hydrosol — but, beware. The two products can differ vastly depending on the producer. A pure hydrosol will be solely plant-based and food grade — meaning edible. Typical floral waters you may find in supermarkets, drug stores, or ethnic food shops may contain non-organic ingredients such as alcohol, chemically produced fragrance or man-made food dyes. Most often they are infused with essential oils —which is not the same thing as a true hydrosol. Pure hydrosols will contain some of the same aromatic molecules as essential oils but in a much lower concentration. They are typically clear and colorless and have a light, trace aroma of the original plant or flower.

Hydrosol pH
Data on hydrosol pH varies, but most can be found in the 3 to 7 range; three being more acidic and seven being close to neutral, depending on the plant used. Additionally, being organic, a true hydrosol will not have the extended shelf life of a formulated floral water and can turn rancid or lose its scent after a time. It is always a best practice to refrigerate any pure natural skin care products the same way food would be refrigerated, and check frequently for color and scent changes. Hydrosols with a pH under 5.0 should last up to two years and over 5.0 pH will be good for 12 to 18 months.

HISTORY
There is evidence of essential oil distillation as long as 5,000 years ago. As stills developed over time, the distillation process became more efficient and more common. One very famous compound or co-distillate was “Eau de Me`lisse de Carmes” or Carmelite water. This recipe dates to sometime between the 14th and 17th centuries and is still shared amongst herbalists today.

According to Washington botanist Ann Harman, “Though sources disagree on the origin of this distillate, many agree on its medicinal value and ingredients. It included lemon balm, angelica root, nutmeg, lemon peel, cloves, and coriander seed, distilled in orange water and (grape) spirits. It was sold for centuries, which seems to indicate its value as medicinal water. There are literally hundreds of recipes for waters and their uses up to the late 1800s. Many were included in the official pharmacopoeias of the time.” Over time, these natural medicinal waters were forgotten and not commonly used in standard cosmetic brands due to the sheer amount of plant-based materials that would be required and shelf life concerns.

METHODS OF APPLICATION
Today, hydrosols and essential oils are most commonly used in natural or organic skin care treatments and aromatherapy practices.

True hydrosols should be considered essential oil distillates that are pure and natural, and only distilled from non-sprayed plant material and contain no additives. For some plants that are highly prone to fungus or bacteria, a very small amount of natural food grade preservative may be used. As such, they can safely be incorporated into many spa and facial treatment options. Again, remember to always refrigerate any organic or plant-based products to keep them from spoiling.

Pure hydrosols can be made from any number of flowers or plant leaves such as roses, peppermint, orange blossoms, and lavender. They can be used in just about anything cosmetic or edible, including lotions, toners, lip balms, tinctures, room sprays, and even cocktails or desserts!

Essential Oils
The highest quality essential oils come from the same steam distillation process that produces the hydrosol. Steam-distilling is an intensive process that requires many pounds of a plant product. For instance, over 60,000 freshly picked roses will yield only one ounce of pure rose essential oil.

Pure essential oils can also be formed by cold pressing or water distilling plant and flower parts. They can be extracted from the bark, stems, leaves, roots, and petals of herbs or flowers. Distilled essential oils have been employed as medicines or topical treatments since the invention of distillation in the 11th century. The shelf life for most essential oils is about 12 months.

Due to the large amounts of plants used to produce small amounts of oil, essential oils should never be ingested. In contrast, hydrosols are much less potent and contain a much smaller portion of volatile oils as wells as trace organic compounds not found in the oil. They can be incorporated into a myriad of treatment options with much less risk. For internal or food-based uses, confirm if any preservatives have been used before ingesting.

Every liter of hydrosol contains between 0.05 and 0.2 milliliter of dissolved essential oil.  For instance, herbal tea’s water to plant ratio is only 0.08 to 1 while hydrosols are at a ratio of 1 to 1 and can be considered a “supercharged” version of tea. In contrast, a pure essential oil will be 80 to 100 percent pure plant oil, sometimes infused in a carrier oil like sweet almond oil or jojoba, but containing no water.

TRADITIONAL AND SPA USES
Hydrosols are extremely versatile when used externally — from facial toners and masks, to compresses or hair rinses, and body lotions or room sprays. Some of the most commonly used fragrances are orange blossom, lavender, rose, rosemary verbenone, lemon balm, peppermint, geranium, and roman chamomile. Spa treatments can incorporate hydrosols into all phases of facials – from steaming to toning to mixing dry facial masks, as well as baths and full body steams.

Neroli (citrus aurantium), also known as orange blossom, is a fruity-floral with uplifting hints of citrus. It has astringent properties that are beneficial for oily skin. It naturally tightens and tones skin while reducing the size of pores. It is antifungal, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory and can be an effective treatment for acne, rosacea, and inflamed skin. Neroli can also be used for cooking. Middle Eastern cultures have used orange blossom for centuries in their sweets, sorbets and beverages. Add a few aromatic drops to an herbal tea for clients to enjoy.

Lavender (lavandula angustifolia) is a popular essential oil and may already be a part of spa or facial treatment options. Lavender oil is considered “universal” for its calming, healing, and antiseptic properties. Add a new dimension by including this floral astringent hydrosol in new ways. Lavender hydrosols are good for every skin type. It has a pH level of 4.5, which is just above neutral. It has cooling properties that help heal heat rash, sunstroke, and burns. Add lavender hydrosol directly to cotton pads as a refreshing toner or combine with chamomile to alleviate rashes. Relieve tension headaches and stress by adding it to a cold compress. Another use is to add half a teaspoon of lavender hydrosol to hot or iced tea for a refreshing zing.

Scents of orange and lavender can also be used as room aromatics or spritzers to help to reduce anxiety and improve client’s mood.

For stiff muscles, aches and pains, add peppermint (mentha piperita) hydrosol to a hot or cold body compress during a massage treatment. Peppermint has many beneficial properties –internally and externally – including stimulating digestion, reducing motion sickness, treating bad breath, reducing acne, and detoxifying the liver. The aroma of peppermint has been shown to enhance memory and increase alertness.

Rose (rosa damascena) hydrosol is a gentle balancer internally and an excellent humectant for dry, mature skin. It is gentle enough to be used directly as a soothing facial spritzer or toner to reduce inflammation and redness. It can also be combined with other skin-healing hydrosols such as chamomile and lavender. For added astringent properties, add two parts witch hazel.

Instead of champagne or wine, treat clients to a fun, fizzy drink. Gently heat the preferred hydrosol over low heat and add a little bit of honey (to taste). Mix half-part hydrosol to mineral water or sparkling soda and stir it until mixed. Add ice and a fresh sprig of mint, orange, or a lemon slice as a garnish.

As with any natural or organic products, it is advisable to only purchase hydrosols from a qualified herbalist and certified organic farm or distiller. Always check for quality and know botanical names to ensure safety and efficacy.

Written by Rachelle Dupree, marketing, communication, and design for Vivoderm Natural Skincare © Dermascope Magazine, December 2017

 

 

 

 

Home Toner Recipes

Written by Author on . Posted in Uncategorized

Blueberry Toner
Make this mask the day you plan to use it, and do not store.

3 tablespoons steamed, crushed blueberries
1/2 C. sour cream or plain yogurt
Purée ingredients in a blender at low speed until well mixed and fluffy. Apply to face and neck.  Let penetrate for 15-20 minutes. Rinse off with tepid water.  If you find the mask is too runny after blending, you should refrigerate for one hour or until of the consistency you desire.

ALMOND FACIAL MILK
The herbal waters are antiseptic and toning. Grapefruit seed extract is available in health food stores, and is included in the recipe as a preservative.
•    1/2 cup rose, lavender, or distilled water
•    1 teaspoon pure vegetable glycerin
•    1/4 to 1 teaspoon cold pressed organic almond oil
•    12 drops grapefruit seed extract
Make the rose or lavender water by placing a small handful of dried organic rose petals or lavender in a pint mason jar and adding boiling water to cover. Let steep overnight, then thoroughly strain. Combine the remaining ingredients in a glass jar and shake to blend. Dab some on your fingers or a cotton ball and massage into your skin. Rinse with warm water. Keep stored in the refrigerator for no more than a month or so. Discard at the first sign of mold.

Apple Face & Neck Gelee

Yield: Approx. 2 applications
Ingredients:
4 teaspoons hot distilled water
1 teaspoon freshly juiced apple juice
1 teaspoon aloe vera gel
4 teaspoons vegetable glycerin
1 heaping teaspoon powdered pectin

Add the glycerin to the water/juice/gel combination and stir to fully incorporate.  Add the pectin while the liquid remains quite warm (if it cools, place it in the microwave or a double boiler to raise the temperature) and use a hand held electric mixer to blend, or stir vigorously to dissolve the pectin. Once the pectin has fully dissolved, a light gel will begin to form. This may take from 15 minutes to 1/2 hour. Once the gel sets, Apple Face & Neck Gelee is ready to use. Apply the gel in a layer to your clean, damp face and neck. Rest for 15 minutes. Rinse with warm water and follow with a light moisturizer if desired. Leftover product can be stored in the refrigerator for about a week. Enjoy!! The shelf life of this product is necessarily limited by the fresh apple juice. It should be used within a few days after it is made.

APPLE SKIN TONER

Intended for slightly oily skins, we’re told by our skincare team that Apple Toner is an excellent substitute for rubbing alcohol (a real no-no, as it actually stimulates the oil glands to produce more oil).
Combine 2/3 cup witch hazel,
1/3 cup of apple cider vinegar,
and several drops of Lavender Essential Oil (or essential oil of your choice).

Mix, and add to clean bottle. Shake bottle well before using, and then dampen a cotton ball or pad saturated with your toner, and swab over face. Witch hazel is a gentle astringent, apple cider vinegar will help restore your skin’s natural ph balance, and lavender soothes sensitive skin.

BASIL ACNE TONIC

Basil is known for its “soothing and toning” properties.
2 to 3 teaspoons dried basil leaves
1 C. boiling water
Steep basil leaves in water for 10 to 20 minutes. Cool, then apply to face with a white cotton ball.   Keep tonic refrigerated.  Recommended shelf life: 90 days.

Facial Toners

Written by Author on . Posted in Uncategorized

Alcohol-free Facial Toner

Facial toner should not be confused with astringent, which can strip the skin of its vital acid balance due to higher concentrations of alcohol. Alcohol-free toner helps to instantly restore the natural PH level of your skin. Toning is a step usually taken after cleansing and before moisturizing. It works best to help balance the skin, remove residual cleanser, clear the pores and soothe the skin.

“Alcohol-free facial toner is a vital transition between cleansing and treatment. The Vivoderm toner, for example, is enriched with minerals and natural herbal astringents to purify hydrate and normalize the skin. The grape seed and green tea extracts soothe and tone the skin preparing it to readily receive the maximum benefits of skin care to follow,” reports Dr. Noushin Adhami, Vice President of Vivoderm Laboratories.

Natural facial toner that combines herbal ingredients, like grape seed or green tea extract work more holistically than alcohol-based astringents. Grape seed contains “oligomeric proanthocyanidin” or OPCs showing medicinal and pharmacological properties against oxidative-caused cellular stress. Radical-scavenging effects have also been reported. The bioflavonoids in grape seed are water-soluble and have antioxidant and ‘adaptogenic’ or stress-resistant properties, which help defend against a number of negative environmental factors, including smoke, radiation and chemicals. Green tea extract has been reported act as a protective agent of skin from ultraviolet light.

What all this means is, in order to achieve optimal health, your skin needs sufficient blood supply, hydration, moisture, oxygen and thickness. The natural facial toner is also a complementary part of the anti-aging prevention tools. Facial toner should promote skin health and vitality by toning the skin and retaining the skin’s natural moisture.

Toners you can make at home

Written by Author on . Posted in Products

APPLE SKIN TONER
Intended for slightly oily skins, we’re told by our skincare team that Apple Toner is an excellent substitute for rubbing alcohol (a real no-no, as it actually stimulates the oil glands to produce more oil).
Combine 2/3 cup witch hazel,
1/3 cup of apple cider vinegar,
and several drops of Lavender Essential Oil (or essential oil of your choice).