This article is published in DERMASCOPE Magazine, June 2023 edition – written by Rachelle Dupree

https://www.dermascope.com/freedigital/June2023/?page=87

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are mild acids and gentle chemical exfoliants com­monly used in skin care treatments to improve the appearance and health of skin. First used in skin care in the 1970s, beta hydroxy acids are a type of hydroxy acid, or organic compounds containing a hydroxyl (OH) group.

AHAs vs BHAs

In the world of skin care products, the most common acid-based ingredients are beta hydroxy acids and alpha hy­droxy acids. Both are typically naturally derived from plant materials, although some are synthesized. While they both perform similar functions, the difference is the chemical com­pound structure between the two. While alpha hydroxy acids are separated from the hydroxy part of the molecule by one carbon atom, beta hydroxy acids are separated by two carbon atoms. This distinction means that common beta hydroxy ac­ids are oil-soluble and have a greater ability to penetrate the lipid layers between skin cells, while alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble and cannot penetrate skin at a deeper layer. This makes beta hydroxy acids the superior choice ingredient for treating acne.

SKIN CARE

Commonly derived from natural sources such as plants, tree bark, fruit, some dairy products, as well as synthetic sources, beta hydroxy acids have a number of beneficial prop­erties that make them useful for oily and acne-prone skin. Beta hydroxy acids’ oil-soluble structure also means they can break down dirt and other debris from skin to remove impuri­ties. This makes them effective at treating a variety of skin conditions including blackheads and whiteheads.

They also assist with basal cell layer stimulation and remove surface cells, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in addition to hyperpigmentation Beta hydroxy acids are also anti-inflammatory, meaning they can help reduce the redness and inflammation associated with acne and other skin conditions.

Salicylic Acid

One of the most common types of beta hydroxy acids is salicylic acid (a derivative of salicin), a natural ingredient de­rived from plants such as willow bark and oil of wintergreen. As a keratolytic medication, it is one of the most popular in­gredients in acne treatments and works by dissolving some of the deeper pore-clogging bonds between skin cells. This effect also produces easy exfoliation by softening or slough­ing off the top layer of skin.

It is generally considered safe for most skin types when used as directed. But be aware of contraindications for dry, sensitive skin or hyperreactive skin. It is also advised to re­frain from using products containing salicylic acid as an all­over body treatment – for instance, on large patches of acne­prone skin, like the back area – as this could contribute to salicylate poisoning.

PUT IT INTO PRACTICE

Beta hydroxy acids are a versatile and effective ingredi­ent that can be found in a variety of skin care products, in­cluding facial cleansers, facial serums, exfoliants, masks, and moisturizers. Most drugstores, beauty stores, online skin care shops, and even some grocery stores carry a variety of prod­ucts containing beta hydroxy acid ingredients. Depending on the skin care professional’s needs, private-label options are available in addition to professional skin care lines.

Products are typically applied to skin once or twice daily and may be combined with other active ingredients to en­hance their effect. It is important to only use complementary products in conjunction with beta hydroxy acids in the correct sequence to avoid negative interactions. When choosing beta hydroxy acid-based products, it is most important to choose the product with the right concentration for the client’s skin type and always follow any special instructions.

The Right Products

Cleansers: One of the easiest ways to incorporate beta hydroxy acids into a skin care routine is through a facial cleanser. When choosing a beta hydroxy acid-based facial cleanser, look for a product with a concentration of 0.5% to 2% beta hydroxy acids. Higher concentrations can be too harsh for some skin types while lower concentrations may not be effective. To help maintain healthy skin, these cleans­ers should only be used once or twice a week to improve skin tone and texture.

Serums: Beta hydroxy acids are most commonly incor­porated through facial serums, which are typically applied after cleansing and toning. When choosing a beta hydroxy acid-based serum, look for a product with a concentration of 1% to 2%.

Masks: Beta hydroxy acids in facial masks are typically used once or twice a week to deeply cleanse and exfoliate skin. Look for mask products with a concentration of 2% to 5% beta hydroxy acids.

FINAL CONSIDERATIONS

It is important to note that beta hydroxy acids can be harsh for some skin types and can cause dryness, redness, and irritation. If a client has sensitive skin, it is best to use beta hydroxy acid-based products sparingly and to patch test before using them on a larger area of the face. Additionally, professionals should recommend the use of a good quality sunscreen alongside.

Overall, beta hydroxy acids are a popular and effective skin care ingredient that can provide a variety of benefits for many skin issues. By incorporating beta hydroxy ac­ids into spa treatments, professionals can help their clients improve the appearance of their skin and reduce the risk of breakouts.

References

1. Arif, T (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent A comprehensive review. C inical, Cosmetic and lnvestigational Dermatology, 455-461. https://doi.org/10.2147 /ccid.s84765
2. Gancev1ciene, R, Uakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A, Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012) Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319. https://doi.org/10.4161/ derm.22804
3 Encycloped1a.com. (2020, August 12). Beta Hydroxy. Encycloped1a.com. Retrieved April 20, 2023, from https:/www.encyclopedia.com/medicine/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts· and-maps/beta-hydroxy

* Rachelle Dupree has over 20 years of experi­ence in marketing, media, communications, and design. She studied with a Denver-based herbal­ist and naturopath for four years, combining her marketing knowledge with her love of natural remedies and skin care. She currently contracts as a marketing and communications director for Vivoderm Natural Skincare and various design clients.

By Van Le | Many pregnant women radiate that natural special “glow”, however, hormonal changes can also influence new reactions to certain chemicals. Knowing what, and more importantly, what not to put into your body during those nine months can affect the well-being of you and your baby. What to put on your body is no different. Since some skincare products can seep into the bloodstream, pregnant women should avoid the following ingredients.

Retinoids

Due to the ability to accelerate cell growth and renewal, retinoids (a type of Vitamin A) are commonly found in many anti-aging products. While Vitamin A is vital for growth and development of the fetus, excessive amounts can lead to birth defects. A study conducted in 1995 suggests that women who consume more than the recommended amount of Vitamin A in the first two months of their pregnancy doubled the risk of having a child with birth defects, according to the March of Dimes website. Topical application of retinoids has not been proven to be harmful, but as a precaution, many doctors and the National Institute of Health advise pregnant patients to stay away from skincare products containing this ingredient.

Salicylic Acid

Acne can wreak havoc anytime, but can be especially frustrating during pregnancy. Salicylic acid is a powerful and common remedy to help sooth inflammations and reduce redness caused by acne pimples, however, it can be harmful for the developing fetus. Medical experts have yet to pinpoint the exact amount of salicylic acid to deem as harmful, but believe that it can lead to respiratory problems for both the mother and baby.

Oxybenzone and Avobenzone

Just because you’re pregnant does not mean you can’t have some fun in the sun. As always, sun protection is pivotal, especially during hours of 10am and 4pm, when the sun’s UVA and UVB rays are most harmful. During the 1970s the Food and Drug Administration approved oxybenzone and avobenzone as safe UVA absorbers, however, a study done at Mt. Sinai School of Medicine in New York states that oxybenzone may cause lower birth weight in baby girls and has also been linked to cell damage and allergies. Avobenzone is capable of absorbing UVA lights, making it effective in sunscreen products, however, it can be absorbed into the skin, therefore, some healthcare professionals encourage expecting mothers to stay away from products containing oxybenzone and avobenzone. A safe sunscreen alternative is zinc oxide, which is made of organic ingredients that siton top of the skin as a protective barrier. Physical sun protection such as clothing as hats are also effective and highly recommended by doctors.

An expecting mother may not have total control over her cravings or hormones, but can dictate which products and ingredients go in and on her body. Most pregnant women abstain from products that have been proven as dangerous and unsafe, such as alcohol and cigarettes. A commitment to stay away from potentially harmful ingredients can also have long-lasting positive effects for both the mother and unborn child.

Van Le is a staff writer for the CSU paper the Daily Titan and writing intern for Vivoderm Laboratories in Los Angeles, California. She is currently pursuing a Journalism degree at California State University, Fullerton.

For the latest findings on natural skincare link to ORGANICSKINCAREINFO.NET

Chemical peeling is emerging as one of the most effective ways to combat skin aging. Chemical peels are one of the most frequently performed aesthetic procedures in North America. Its popularity continues to grow because of the versatility of conditions where chemical peels are of significant benefit. In addition to the topical preparations such as over-the-counter and prescription creams, chemical peels are one of the earliest forms of treatment adopted by many patients. At the same time, there is much confusion and misunderstanding surrounding chemical peels that prevents more of us from enjoying their undeniable benefits. Let’s go through the important facts about chemical peels and their uses in modern skin care regimens.

Categories of Chemical Peels:

1. Superficial chemical peels:

Broadly speaking, chemical peels can be divided into several categories based on the depth of penetration in the skin. Superficial chemical peels create an injury to the epidermis – the outermost layer of the skin. As such, they are recommended for the treatment of skin conditions that primarily affect the epidermis. Conditions such as acne, actinic keratosis, superficial (epidermal) melasma, mottled skin pigmentation, superficial wrinkling as well as mild photo-damage can greatly benefit from properly selected and applied superficial chemical peels.

* AHAs

Some of the most common examples of superficial chemical peels include a variety of alpha-hydroxy acids
(AHA,) salicylic acid as well as low concentration trichloroacetic acid (10% – 25%.) The most commonly used superficial chemical peels are members of AHA. Alpha-hydroxy acids is a group of compounds derived from food products including glycolic (from sugar cane,) lactic (from sour milk,) malic (from apples,) citric (from fruits) and tartaric acid (from grape wine.) Glycolic acid (GA) is a clear winner amongst the AHA as its small molecular weight allows it to penetrate into the skin and exert its influence on living and non-living (outermost layer) cells. These properties account for the popularity of this product in both cosmetic as well as medical preparations.

In low concentrations, 5 – 10%, GA reduces cell adhesion in the top layer of the skin. This action promotes exfoliation of the outermost layer of the skin accounting for smother texture following regular use of topical GA. This relatively low concentration of GA lends itself to daily personal use as a monotherapy or a part of a broader skin care management for such conditions as acne, photodamage, wrinkling as well as selected cases of melasma.

In higher concentrations, between 10 and 50%, the benefits of GA are more pronounced but are limited to temporary skin smoothing without much long lasting results. This is still a useful concentration to use as it can prepare the skin for more efficacious GA concentrations (50 – 70%) as well as prime the skin for deeper chemical peels such as higher concentration trichloroacetic acid.

At higher concentrations, 50 – 70% applied for 3 to 8 minutes under the supervision of a physician, GA promotes separation between the cells and can be used to treat acne, photodamage (such as mottled dyspigmentation, superficial melasma or fine wrinkles) as well as superficial scars. The benefits from such short contact application depend on the pH of the solution (the more acidic the product [lower pH,] the more pronounced the results,) the concentration of GA (higher concentrations produce more vigorous response,) the length of application and prior skin conditioning such as prior use of topical vitamin A acid products. Although single application of 50 – 70% GA will produce beneficial results, multiple treatments every 2 to 4 weeks are required for optimal results.

* Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is a member of beta-hydroxy acid group. Because of its improved lipid solubility compared to the AG, it is particularly effective in the treatment of acne. In addition, it is not as inflammatory and some physicians use it extensively for the treatment of melasma. Low concentration trichloroacetic acid (10% – 25%) can also be used to treat the conditions affecting superficial epidermis but its use is limited to experienced physicians as more detailed patient selection and application care is required. As such, physician supervision is required for all peels except low concentration glycolic acid (up to 35%) and salicylic acid peels (below 20%.) This precaution is necessary to prevent inadvertent worsening of the skin condition as well as scarring.

Although in some instances only one superficial peel can accomplish desired effects, in most cases a series of peels is recommended to achieve optimal results. Superficial peels are an excellent way to introduce oneself to the rejuvenating power of these common aesthetic procedures. Done properly and with care, superficial peels are very safe treatment options for some of the most common conditions affecting facial skin.

It is important to understand that superficial chemical peels are peels with similar risks and side effects as other peels. Some of the side effects of superficial chemical peeling can include hyper- or hypo-pigmentation, persistent redness, scaring as well as flare up of facial herpes infections (“cold sores”). Caution needs to be exercised with some patients, particularly those suffering from rosacea or eczema. These patients are prone to skin irritation and even the mildest peels can cause injury to the skin. Fortunately, in most instances, such injury can resolve with time and optimal skin care. In cases of melasma, extreme caution needs to be taken, as it is possible to worsen this common and unforgiving skin condition. Any significant redness of the skin must be avoided.

Author: Mariusz J.A. Sapijaszko, MD FRCPC (Dermatology)