Controversial Skincare Ingredients: Navigating Risks, Regulations, and Alternatives

Skincare products often promise radiant, healthy skin, but hidden in some formulations are controversial ingredients that could pose risks to your health. While some ingredients are approved for use under specific regulations, debates about their safety persist. This article explores controversial skincare ingredients, their regulatory status under FDA and EU guidelines, and safer alternatives.

1. Parabens

Parabens are synthetic preservatives commonly found in moisturizers, shampoos, and makeup. They prevent microbial growth but have been linked to hormone disruption due to their ability to mimic estrogen. Studies suggest potential connections to reproductive issues and breast cancer, raising concerns about long-term use.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA: Parabens are classified as “Generally Recognized as Safe” (GRAS) but remain under scrutiny. The FDA monitors new scientific data but has not banned their use.
• EU: The European Union has stricter regulations, banning several parabens (e.g., isopropylparaben) and limiting concentrations in products.

How to spot them: Look for ingredients ending in “-paraben,” such as methylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben.

2. Sulfates

Sulfates, such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), are foaming agents in cleansers and shampoos. They effectively remove dirt and oil but can strip the skin’s natural moisture, causing irritation and dryness.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA: Sulfates are approved for use but must be listed on product labels.
• EU: Sulfates are allowed but are subject to more stringent labeling requirements, particularly if they may cause irritation.

How to spot them: Look for “sodium lauryl sulfate” or “sodium laureth sulfate” on labels.

3. Phthalates

Phthalates are used to improve texture and extend the longevity of fragrances. However, they are known endocrine disruptors and have been linked to developmental and reproductive issues.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA: Phthalates are not banned but are closely monitored for safety.
• EU: The EU has banned several phthalates in cosmetics due to potential health risks.

How to spot them: Look for “phthalate,” “DEP,” “DBP,” or avoid products with unspecified “fragrance.”

4. Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde-Releasing Agents

Formaldehyde is a preservative with antimicrobial properties, but it’s a known carcinogen. Ingredients like DMDM hydantoin and quaternium-15 release formaldehyde over time.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA: The FDA limits formaldehyde use but has not banned it outright.
• EU: The EU prohibits the use of formaldehyde in cosmetics.

How to spot them: Look for “formaldehyde,” “DMDM hydantoin,” “quaternium-15,” “imidazolidinyl urea,” or “diazolidinyl urea.”

5. Synthetic Fragrances

Synthetic fragrances can contain hundreds of undisclosed chemicals, often leading to skin irritation and allergic reactions. Many also include phthalates, compounding health concerns.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA: Fragrance ingredients are not required to be disclosed due to trade secret protections.
• EU: The EU mandates disclosure of allergenic fragrance components.

How to spot them: Avoid products with “fragrance” or “parfum” listed.

6. Artificial Colors

Artificial colors, derived from petroleum or coal tar, can irritate skin and have been linked to potential carcinogenic effects.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA: Artificial colors must meet certification requirements for safety.
• EU: The EU restricts the use of certain artificial colors and requires transparency in labeling.

How to spot them: Look for FD&C or D&C followed by a color and number, such as “FD&C Red No. 40.”

7. Mineral Oil

A byproduct of petroleum, mineral oil is used as an occlusive agent. While it effectively locks in moisture, it can clog pores and impede skin breathing.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA: Approved for cosmetic use as long as it’s highly refined.
• EU: Permitted but regulated to ensure purity.

How to spot them: Look for “mineral oil,” “paraffinum liquidum,” or “petrolatum.”

8. Triclosan

Triclosan is an antimicrobial agent used in cleansers and toothpaste. It has been linked to hormone disruption and antibiotic resistance.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA: Triclosan is banned in over-the-counter hand soaps but allowed in some cosmetics.
• EU: Triclosan is banned in cosmetics.

How to spot them: Look for “triclosan” or “triclocarban.”

9. Silicones

Silicones create a smooth, silky texture in skincare products but can trap dirt and bacteria, potentially leading to breakouts.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA & EU: Silicones are generally considered safe for use in cosmetics but must be listed on labels.

How to spot them: Look for ingredients ending in “-cone,” “-siloxane,” or “-conol.”

10. Alcohols

Short-chain alcohols like ethanol and isopropyl alcohol help products dry quickly but can strip skin’s natural oils, causing irritation.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA & EU: Approved for cosmetic use but must be listed on ingredient labels.

How to spot them: Look for “isopropyl alcohol,” “ethanol,” or “denatured alcohol.”

Key Differences Between FDA and EU Regulations

• The EU follows a precautionary principle, banning over 1,300 substances in cosmetics. It emphasizes consumer safety and mandates rigorous testing.
• The FDA takes a reactive approach, banning or restricting only a small number of ingredients (around 11). The burden of proof lies with manufacturers unless evidence of harm is presented.

Tips for Choosing Safer Skincare Products

• Read labels carefully: Familiarize yourself with controversial ingredients and check regulations in your region.
• Choose EU-certified products: If safety is your priority, opt for products that meet EU standards.
• Opt for natural and organic products: These often contain fewer synthetic chemicals.
• Patch test new products: Check for adverse reactions before full application.

Understanding ingredient safety and regulatory differences can empower you to make informed choices for your skincare routine. Prioritize transparency and select brands that align with your safety standards.

 

A side NOTE on Natural Fragrance Oils and Coloring in Skincare

Natural fragrance oils and colors are derived from plant-based sources, offering a safer and often more skin-friendly alternative to synthetic ingredients. Essential oils like lavender, rose, and chamomile provide natural scents while also offering therapeutic benefits. For coloring, botanical extracts such as beetroot, spirulina, and turmeric impart beautiful, natural hues without the risk of irritation or harmful side effects. These ingredients are often less irritating and provide additional nutrients, making them ideal for sensitive skin or those seeking cleaner formulations. However, natural doesn’t always mean hypoallergenic, so patch testing is still recommended.

Get Your Skin Ready for Your Wedding, Graduation or Other Major Event

By Kevin C. Smith MD FACP FRCPC

Everyone – guests and those who will be in the public eye — wants their skin to look its best on their big day. Here are some simple tips you can follow to help avoid skin problems on your special day:

• Acne or Rosacea Skin:
  Plan ahead: if you have a skin condition like acne or rosacea, see a dermatologist at least 3-4 months ahead of the big day (and sooner, if possible), so that your condition can be brought under control and so that your skin can heal up in time for the occasion. Check out www.AcneGuide.ca or www.RosaceaGuide.ca for treatment information.
• Wrinkles, Unwanted Hair or Sweating:
  Are you thinking of having treatments like Botox® (for frown lines, or to control excessive sweating), fillers like Restylane™, Juvederm™ and Artecoll™ for wrinkles, creases and scars, or laser treatments for unwanted hair or to remove broken blood vessels from the face? You should aim to have these treatments completed about 3 weeks before the event, so that the benefits of treatment will have fully developed, and so that any side effects of treatment like redness or small bruises will have resolved. Discuss the plans and timing with your dermatologist so that these things can be taken into account when scheduling your treatments. (Read more about Botox®)
• New Cosmetics:
  If you want to experiment with cosmetics, you should do so well in advance, to reduce the risk that an allergic or irritant reaction will interfere with your enjoyment of the event.
• Sun Tanning:
  Sun protection is important in the weeks leading up to an important event, to reduce the risk that you will have sunburn or peeling on the big day. It is also important to avoid experimenting with tanning beds in the weeks leading up to a major event, in case you have an undesired reaction to the UV light.
• Self-Tanning:
  Self-tanning creams and spray-on tans should not be used for the first time within three weeks of a major event, in case there is an allergic reaction or an unusual or uneven color is created. If you want to use such products, start to experiment with them several months ahead so that you can learn how to obtain safe, reliable results. Remember that the pigment created by many self-tanning products can discolor fine clothing, so it might be best not to apply them within a week of a public event.

What if there is a dermatological emergency like a flare-up of acne or an allergic reaction on the face in the days before a wedding, graduation or other important day? Fortunately, many of these problems can be helped by modern medical treatments. Your doctor may be able to arrange a high priority appointment with a dermatologist if they explain that there is an important event coming up – most of us, and most of our staff have been through these things ourselves and we are very sympathetic.

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About the author:
Dr. Kevin Smith is a dermatologist in Niagara Falls, Ontario with a particular interest in protecting the skin and in correcting skin problems resulting from aging, rosacea and sun damage. He is an expert in the use of Botox®, fillers, lasers and intense pulsed light to maintain and enhance the appearance of the skin, and have lectured on those subjects across North America, and in Europe, Asia and Mexico. Read more at www.smithlaser.com

Your legs must be wet for at least two to three minutes before applying your cleanser or scrub. That way the hair is soft and pliable, easier to cut. Don’t use soap, it just dries out your legs and makes for a poor shave.

Make sure you have the right tool. There are various styles of shavers, but not all legs or hair growth are the same. Triple blades work well, but no matter the blade type you use, change it frequently – but be careful with sharp edges – if not done carefully, shaving can irritate the skin, the hair follicle, and the oil gland, which causes a rash. Ingrown hairs also pose a chance of infection. See a dermatologist for the right solution.

Choose a shaving cream or gel that contains emollients for a hydrating effect, and one that is fragrance free to avoid irritation to your skin. So steer away from products that contain irritants including alcohol, menthol and peppermint. Find yourself out of shaving cream? Hair conditioner or body cleanser works just fine.

Apply even pressure and shave against the growth of hair. Follow up with a moisturizer to keep your skin moist and supple. (Read about Skin Moisturizers), but avoid creams with AHAs because the glycolic acid can irritate freshly-shaven skin.

Are there shaving alternatives?

Indeed there are. While temporary hair removal can be done by shaving, waxing or by epilation (electrolysis and thermolysis) another method is removing hair with a laser.

What is laser hair removal?

Light energy produced by a laser is targeted at the pigment in hair. This causes destruction of hair follicles while sparing surrounding structures (i.e., the skin). Total temporary hair removal, which lasts for several months, can be done in almost all patients. However, total permanent laser hair removal is not commonly done. Stable permanent hair removal may be possible in some cases and usually requires multiple treatment sessions. You can read about Laser Hair Removal frequently asked questions

Who benefits from laser hair removal?

Almost anybody, however, this process works well for light-skinned, dark-haired individuals. There is no laser treatment yet that is effective for white, blond or red hair.

Be aware of some cautions if you go this route; such as dealing with existing bacterial or viral infections, psoriasis, or if you are on certain medications such as Accutane®. See your dermatologist for more details if you are considering laser hair removal.

Laser hair removal facts

• The process can be mild to moderately uncomfortable.
• Most patients require three to six treatments. Long-lasting results depend on hair color, type of laser, and location treated.
• Complications are rare if performed by an experienced physician.
• Expect some pain, swelling and redness around the hair follicle after each treatment session.
• Check with your dermatologist about pre-operative care concerns.

Folliculitis alert

Shaving can also cause a condition called folliculitis, which is an inflammation or infection of hair follicles. It most often appears in areas that become irritated by shaving, the rubbing of clothes, or where follicles and pores are blocked by oils and dirt. Ask our dermatologist about solutions such as Bactroban© ointment to help heal these irritations. (Read more about Bacterial Skin Infections)

What to watch for:

• a reddened rash
• raised, red, often pus-filled lesions around hair follicles (pimples)
• itching at the site of the rash and pimples

How to prevent it:

• shave with an electric razor instead of a blade razor
• keep skin clean
• avoid clothing that rubs against the skin, damaging hair follicles

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