Bakuchiol – A Retinol Alternative
In recent years, a new player in the antiaging game has come onto the field and is growing in popularity–bakuchiol. Bakuchiol is a natural chemical compound extracted from the seeds of the bakuchi plant (psoralea corylifolia) and has been used in Ayurveda and traditional Chinese medicine for centuries. Bakuchiol and other more natural alternatives like Rambhutan or Rosehip Seed Oil are promising to be just as effective as retinols for reducing the appearance of aging skin.
When it comes to skincare, retinoids are king. There are no other active ingredients—natural or synthetic—quite like them. Retinoids are a family of compounds derived from vitamin A, and the most commonly used one over the counter is retinol. The powerhouse ingredient has the ability to stimulate collagen and promote cell turnover, which can improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots, and acne. The miracle of it all, however, comes at a cost—red, dry, and flaky skin.
Bakuchiol, was first introduced for commercial use in topical applications around 2007 and recent research proves it to be a gentler alternative to the harsh vitamin A-derived retinols. Retinols have been around since the late 1940s and can be found in numerous over-the-counter skin care products. The most concentrated version (also known as Retin-A or tretinoin) is available by prescription only.
Retinols have historically been prescribed by dermatologists to treat inflammatory acne, scarring, hyperpigmentation, and wrinkles. It works primarily by sloughing off the top layer of skin, speeding up cellular turnover rates, rapidly exfoliating the skin, and decreasing the build-up of dead cells within the follicle.
Retinol can also be irritating to the skin, causing major side effects like irritation, peeling, redness, dryness, sun sensitivity, and can be difficult for those with sensitive skin to use.
Bakuchiol, as an alternative, provides a more natural and effective solution to traditional retinols. Bakuchiol was shown to possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties just like retinoids and was also found to be more stable than retinol. This makes it a great natural alternative to retinol, especially for those with sensitive skin conditions such as eczema or psoriasis.
Since 2013, numerous dermatological studies have been conducted comparing bakuchiol’s ability to mimic benefits of retinol and repeatedly found equivalent results to retinol performance. This has helped fuel a popularity boom for the new compound. In 2018, the “British Journal of Dermatology” published a randomized, double-blind, 12-week clinical study with 44 volunteers, which found bakuchiol to be comparable with retinol in its ability to improve photo-aging (wrinkles and hyperpigmentation) but with fewer negative skin reactions.
Another bonus to using bakuchiol over retinoids is the ability to incorporate it into one’s skincare routine at any time of day. Traditional retinoids can cause the skin to become photosensitive and prone to sun damage, so they are typically recommended only for use as a nighttime treatment. A variety of products can now be found on the market containing bakuchiol in varying levels of concentrations. For those who want the benefits of both retinol and bakuchiol, there are a few combination treatments available as well. Now, the ingredient has popped up in eye creams, moisturizers, and face oils, so there’s no wrong way to incorporate it into your routine.
Written by Rachelle Dupree – amended for this post
Original article Published in Fact or Fiction, Dermascope Magazine Online: April, 2021. https://www.dermascope.com/fact-or-fiction/13117-is-bakuchiol-better-than-retinol
Cellulite is a modern condition that has created more confusion than answers. Researching basic information about the topic can result in a myriad of conflicting data. Medical professionals believe cellulite is a non-issue, albeit unsightly. Due to the unsightly nature of the condition, spa treatments, creams, and claims on its causes and cures abound.
Historically, the concept and naming of cellulite has only been around for the last century, when a number of early European clinicians all tried their hand at describing and identifying the anatomy and histology of fat. In the 1920s, French physicians Alquier and Paviot described “cell-u-leet” as a “non-inflammatory cellular disorder of mesodermal origin.” In 1973, cellulite became a household term, thanks mostly to Nicole Ronsard’s best-selling book, “Cellulite: Those Lumps, Bumps, and Bulges You Couldn’t Lose Before.” Following this book, the idea of cellulite officially entered culture as a new dermatological condition.
Cellulite results from many complex events involving the epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissues. Most women will develop cellulite at some point in their lives. It does not matter if someone is skinny or full-figured, the skin tissue biology will remain the same. Sub-dermal fat looks lumpy because it pushes against the connective tissue, causing the skin above it to pucker.
Another possible contributor to thinning skin and cellulite occurs from wearing underwear with elastic bands that are too tight across the buttocks, which can compress skin tissue and limit blood flow, increasing the appearance of cellulite.
Cellulite is the bane of many women’s body care regimen. It seems, no matter what treatments are used, cellulite refuses to budge permanently. Some swear by the less invasive benefits from regular massages, lymphatic drainage treatments, creams, and wraps, but those treatments alone may not be enough, depending on the level of cellulite.
There is no limit of creams or serums claiming to magically melt away fat. Most are good for temporarily plumping skin with additional moisture, but that is all. The ingredients promoted for skin tightening and fat breakdown are caffeine, aminophylline, and theophylline. Others include vitamins, minerals, and herbal extracts that might not reduce cellulite, but can improve skin tone and texture. Generally, these products require daily or twice daily applications to show any promise, but they may add some value when combined with other treatments.
Regular massages will boost circulation and improve blood flow. While applying body creams, take a few extra minutes to give these areas a firm massage. Massage improves blood flow and reduces excess fluid, which can also temporarily reduce the dimpled effect. Body scrubs, dry brushing, and showers that switch from hot to cold can also boost circulation.
A body wrap can tighten and smooth the skin and improve its tone and texture for a short period. The effects generally last about a day and costs vary. Beware of slimming wraps that promise to remove inches in hours. They may severely dehydrate skin cells and help with inch-loss within hours, but they will not affect the stores of fat or the permanent cellular skin structures that supports them.
Try to eat a diet rich in natural foods filled with all the colors of the rainbow instead of empty fast food calories that are high in fat. Shedding extra pounds can go a long way in reducing the dimpled effect and toning the body.
Many medical spa treatments and high-end therapies are available for cellulite, but they can be costly. Furthermore, some may work better than others, depending on skin and body type. It is important to be aware of the dangers associated with medical spa treatments. Check for references and medical accreditations or licensing before allowing anyone to perform invasive procedures. Several therapies have been suggested for removing cellulite, but none have yet been confirmed by scientific research.
Sometimes referred to as radiofrequency systems, these treatments show promise for reducing cellulite with a combination of therapies, including massage, liposuction, or light therapy. Direct laser treatments work by inserting a small probe under the skin, which is then fired, breaking up the fatty tissue. The laser’s light or heat can liquefy fat, cut connective tissue to loosen puckering, boost collagen growth, and increase skin tightening. Increased blood flow and reduced fluid retention are also claimed. Recipients of the treatment can expect a 75 percent improvement in the reduction of cellulite. Swelling and minor pain are typical side effects and results can last from six months to one year. The most popular lasers are FDA-approved, like Cellulaze, but can be expensive and may require several visits. Long-term effects are unknown with most modern lasers.
Subcision is a minor surgical procedure used for treating depressed cutaneous scars and wrinkles. It is also called subcutaneous incisional surgery. Unlike lasers, subcision uses a special hypodermic needle or blade to slice through the cellulite bands underneath the skin. Stabilized-guided subcision systems use vacuum-assisted control of both the depth and area of tissue release for precise and reproducible results. As it cuts the connective bands, the tissue underneath moves up to fill the space under the skin, removing the appearance of cellulite. About 20 to 30 individual cellulite dimples are treated during an average one-hour session. Results may last for two to three years, but data on its success is limited. These treatments are not recommended for loose skin patients or those with orange peel stage 1 cellulite.
Often called mesotherapy, this procedure is performed by injecting various chemicals into the fat layer below the skin to encourage breakdown and make cellulite less noticeable. The chemicals used include phosphatidylcholine, aminophylline, hormones, herbal extracts, vitamins, and minerals. There is little proof these treatments help. There have been many cases of botched injections that result in infection, swelling, rashes, and lumpy skin.
