How Sun Protection Factor is Measured and Verified

Determining a sunscreen’s Sun Protection Factor (SPF) is essential to assess its effectiveness in shielding the skin from harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation. SPF quantifies the level of protection against UVB rays, which are primarily responsible for sunburn and can contribute to skin cancer. Accurate determination of SPF involves both in vivo (on human subjects) and in vitro (laboratory-based) testing methods.

HOW DO YOU KNOW YOUR SPF IS ENOUGH?

In Vivo Testing

The traditional method for determining SPF is the in vivo test, as outlined in ISO 24444:2019. This procedure involves applying the sunscreen to the skin of human volunteers and measuring the time it takes for erythema (redness) to develop compared to unprotected skin. The SPF value is calculated by dividing the amount of UV exposure that causes erythema on protected skin by the amount that causes erythema on unprotected skin. While this method has been the standard, it raises ethical concerns due to the intentional exposure of participants to potentially harmful UV radiation.

In Vitro Testing

To address these concerns, in vitro methods have been developed. These laboratory-based techniques measure the sunscreen’s ability to absorb or reflect UV radiation without involving human subjects. One such method is specified in ISO 23675:2024, which provides guidelines for determining SPF by analyzing the spectral absorbance characteristics of sunscreen products. This approach is applicable to various formulations, including emulsions and alcoholic solutions, but excludes powders and sticks.

Recent Developments

In early 2025, the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) approved two new SPF testing methods aimed at providing more ethical and less invasive alternatives to traditional in vivo tests. These methods seek to deliver reliable evaluations of UV protection while minimizing risks to human participants. The adoption of these new standards marks a significant advancement in sunscreen testing, promoting both accuracy and ethical responsibility.

Expected SPF Based on Sunscreen Agents

While in vitro and in vivo testing are necessary for precise SPF determination, formulators often estimate the expected SPF based on the type and concentration of active sunscreen agents used. For instance:

• Avobenzone: Provides UVA1 protection. Allowed use levels vary by region (e.g., USA 3%, EU 5%). Does not significantly increase SPF on its own.
• Homosalate: Offers UVB protection. Allowed up to 15% in the USA. Specific SPF contribution data may not be available.
• Octocrylene: Protects against UVB. Usage levels differ depending on combination with other sunscreens.
• Octyl Methoxycinnamate (OM-Cinnamate): Provides UVB protection. In the USA, allowed up to 7.5%. Approximately 1% concentration yields an SPF of about 1.5.
• Oxybenzone: Offers protection against UVB and UVA2. Allowed up to 6% in the USA. Approximately 1% concentration yields an SPF of about 1.5.

It’s important to note that these figures are approximate, and the actual SPF of a final product can only be accurately determined through standardized testing methods.

See the last chart here by https://www.makingcosmetics.com/

*UVA1 = 340-400 nm, UVA2 = 320-340 nm, UVB = 290-320 nm

Zinc Repairing Facial Cream

Conclusion

Accurate SPF determination is crucial for ensuring the efficacy and safety of sunscreen products. While estimations based on active ingredients provide a preliminary understanding, standardized in vivo and in vitro testing methods are essential for precise measurement. The recent advancements in SPF testing methodologies reflect a commitment to ethical practices and scientific accuracy in the cosmetic industry.

NOTE: SPF testing must be done by special laboratories that have a lot of expertise and experience. Here are laboratories that offer this service:

• Suncare Research Laboratories
• AMA Labs
• CPT Labs

SOURCES:

Typology Paris

Sun Protection: Two New SPF Testing Methods Approved by ISO.

February 11, 2025 — The ISO approved two new SPF methods at the beginning of 2025. What are they and how will they impact sun care? Discover the details here.

gafchromic.com

[PDF] A new in-vitro method for determination of Sun Protection Factor

October 30, 2016 — A new in-vitro SPF test method for determining the efficacy of sun care products was proposed and evaluated. The test method is based on UV …

ISO

ISO 23675:2024 – Cosmetics — Sun protection test methods

December 18, 2024 — This document specifies a method for the in vitro determination of sun protection factor (SPF). This method is applicable to sunscreen products.

MakingCosmetics

How a SPF is Determined – Making Cosmetics

The SPF can only be determined accurately by in-vitro and/or in-vivo testing. Sunscreen, UV Protection*, Allowed Use Level, Expected …

Cosmetics & Toiletries

Good As Gold: Validating Alternative SPF Test Methods

April 2, 2020 — In silico SPF determination methods are becoming increasingly popular; they often provide realistic, usually rather conservative results. In …

Typology Paris ; Sun Protection: Two New SPF Testing Methods Approved by ISO.

February 11, 2025 — The ISO approved two new SPF methods at the beginning of 2025. What are they and how will they impact sun care? Discover the details here.

jasco-global.com

Analysis of Sunscreen SPF/PA Using a Spectroscopic Measurement …

February 1, 2021 — The system is used to calculate the SPF and the PA values from the transmittance spectra of sunscreens using a UV-visible spectrophotometer.

Cosmetics & Toiletries

Good As Gold: Validating Alternative SPF Test Methods

April 2, 2020 — In silico SPF determination methods are becoming increasingly popular; they often provide realistic, usually rather conservative results. In …

gafchromic.com

[PDF] A new in-vitro method for determination of Sun Protection Factor

October 30, 2016 — A new in-vitro SPF test method for determining the efficacy of sun care products was proposed and evaluated. The test method is based on UV …

MakingCosmetics

How a SPF is Determined – Making Cosmetics

The SPF can only be determined accurately by in-vitro and/or in-vivo testing. Sunscreen, UV Protection*, Allowed Use Level, Expected …

ISO

ISO 23675:2024 – Cosmetics — Sun protection test methods

This document specifies a method for the in vitro determination of sun protection factor (SPF). This method is applicable to sunscreen products.

SciELO

[PDF] Determination of sun protection factor (SPF) of sunscreens … – SciELO

The proposed UV spectrophotometric method is simple, rapid, employs low cost reagents and can be used in the in vitro determination of SPF values in many …

Regulations.gov

[PDF] INTERNATIONAL SUN PROTECTION FACTOR (SPF) TEST METHOD

The sun protection factor for the product (SPF) is the arithmetic mean of all valid SPFi results from each and every subject in the test and should be …

ScienceDirect

Sunscreen testing: A critical perspective and future roadmap

In silico methods use computational simulation approaches to estimate the SPF value by

ORIGINAL POST:

https://www.wmagazine.com/beauty/best-moisturizers-face-creams-for-dry-skin

It happens like clockwork: every winter, I’ll be at the sink, removing my makeup, and there it is—the undeniable realization that something’s off with my skin. Two or three weeks into the season, I start overanalyzing the situation. Could the culprit be my all-chocolate diet? Too much wine? Not enough sleep? But deep down, I know the truth. Wintertime has simply sucked the life out of my face. While hydration starts from within (electrolyte drinks are your best ally, never forget that), your skin also needs a more potent topical solution in colder climes. Enter W magazine’s handpicked selection of excellent face creams. These high-performance, top-tier moisturizers are the very best to restore, replenish, and protect, so your face can survive the season without looking like it’s been through a blizzard.

re).

Vivoderm Natural Skincare Intense Moisturizer

$80

A hidden gem, Vivoderm’s luxurious cream has been a favorite for over 65 years, yet it remains the best-kept secret in skincare. Formulated by dermatologists, this is a masterful blend of nature’s most potent botanicals—chamomile, comfrey root, and aloe vera—that work together to deeply hydrate, soothe, and heal, making it ideal for post-laser care and other skin treatments. Its rich yet lightweight texture absorbs effortlessly, leaving the skin soft, calm, and rejuvenated without feeling heavy.

Chocolate is a beloved treat worldwide, but its reputation has often been tarnished by claims that it causes acne. So, what does science say? This article explores the latest research on chocolate, diet, and their link to skin health.

Does chocolate cause acne?  Science says, “It’s complicated.”

As a dermatologist, Dr. Adhami is asked this question all the time. Many people are questioning if chocolate causes acne. Probably because chocolate is SO good and many of us love to indulge – but it might come with a cost of breakouts and exacerbated acne.

To date, scientific studies have yielded varied results. As with many things – it is a totally individual experience for every person based on factors of genetics, age, hormones, diet, lifestyle, etc.

But some answers have come to light that may help those struggling with acne.

Chocolate and Acne: The Research
The idea that chocolate causes acne has been around for decades. However, studies have shown mixed results. Some research suggests that high-sugar and high-fat diets may contribute to skin inflammation, which can lead to breakouts. Chocolate itself, particularly dark chocolate, contains antioxidants and nutrients that may not be the primary culprits.

A 2019 article on CNN(1) highlights that the connection between chocolate and acne isn’t as straightforward as previously thought. It’s not just chocolate but overall dietary habits, including high glycemic index foods, that may influence acne.

Acne culprits: Chocolate or sugar?

When it comes to diet, there’s good data to suggest that high glycemic index foods – rich in refined carbohydrates and sugar, including sugary drinks and processed breads and snacks – are bad for acne-prone skin. These foods cause a spike in blood sugar, which increases production of insulin, an insulin-like growth factor and hormones known as androgens, which results in more sebum production.

Sebum is an oily substance secreted by the sebaceous glands that keeps skin moist. When the glands produce too much sebum, the oil can combine with dead skin cells and become trapped in pores. This leads to blackheads, whiteheads and pimples.

Dr. Patricia Farris, a dermatologist and fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology, answers, “Spikes in insulin are acne-genic, so we don’t want high-glycemic diets,” Farris said. “We’ve connected the dots there … but we haven’t completely connected the dots on chocolate.”

In fact, kids who eat chocolate candy and break out afterward might attribute their acne to chocolate, but in reality, their pimples may proliferate because these junk foods are sugar-rich and cause blood sugar and insulin spikes.

“The chocolate your average kid consumes is a small amount of chocolate wrapped around a piece of gooey caramel or in some ice cream. The chocolate is probably less of an influence on that kid than the rest of the junk food they’re eating,” Farris said.

Evolving research reveals breaking news on breakouts

Chocolate lovers have long faced the question: does eating chocolate cause breakouts? Several studies suggest there may be a connection, though the relationship is complex and not fully understood.

The Jelly Bean vs. Chocolate Study
One study compared chocolate bars to jelly beans, both with the same glycemic load—a measure of how much a food raises blood sugar. Participants consumed both, and the results were telling. While jelly beans had no effect on acne, chocolate led to an average increase of five pimples.

“Some people might say, five pimples, no big deal,” said Dr. Gregory R. Delost from University Hospitals, Cleveland Medical Center. “But for someone getting ready for a big event, five pimples can be significant.”

Delost is convinced chocolate can worsen acne, but his study used milk chocolate. This may have been a limitation since milk has been linked to acne in some research.

Dark Chocolate’s Role in Acne
Another study in 2016 tested 99% dark chocolate—free of added sugars or milk—on 25 acne-prone males. After four weeks, researchers observed a significant increase in blackheads and pimples compared to baseline.

“We did not conclude that chocolates cause acne, as this condition is caused by multifaceted factors,” said Dr. Pravit Asawanonda of Chulalongkorn University in Thailand. However, their study did suggest that dark chocolate could worsen acne symptoms.

This study did not test non-acne-prone individuals or female participants. Women are often excluded from acne research due to hormonal fluctuations during menstrual cycles that could skew results.

The Fat and Inflammation Connection
In milk chocolate, dairy sugar may play a role in acne. Dark chocolate, however, contains cocoa butter, which has oleic acid and stearic acid—fats that may clog pores. Oleic acid, in particular, has been shown to influence pore clogging in animal studies.

Interestingly, cocoa’s flavonoids are known for their anti-inflammatory properties, but fats in chocolate may still trigger skin inflammation.

Berman’s Study: Pure Chocolate Capsules
Dr. Brian Berman of the University of Miami conducted a double-blinded, placebo-controlled study using pure 100% chocolate capsules with no milk or sugar. His study, involving young men with a history of acne but no lesions at baseline, showed an increase in both inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne lesions.

Although Berman’s study had only 14 participants, he noted that the findings align with real-world patient experiences.

The Complex Nature of Acne
“The pathogenesis of acne is complicated,” said dermatologist Dr. Farris. Acne results from a buildup of skin cells at hair follicle openings, leading to trapped sebum and bacterial growth that triggers inflammation.

“Nutrition plays a role, but acne is a four-pronged process. Avoiding chocolate may address one piece of a very large puzzle.”

In summary, while chocolate might not directly cause acne, it can exacerbate symptoms in those prone to breakouts. For clearer skin, balance your diet and pay attention to how your skin reacts to certain foods.

The Role of Diet in Skin Health

Certain foods with a high glycemic index—like sugary snacks and refined carbs—can cause spikes in blood sugar. This triggers a chain reaction in the body, leading to increased sebum production and skin inflammation. These factors can contribute to acne.

Experts recommend a balanced diet rich in whole grains, fruits, vegetables, and lean proteins to support skin health.

Should You Avoid Chocolate?
While cutting out chocolate may seem like the solution, moderation is key. If you notice breakouts after eating large amounts of chocolate, it may be worth reducing your intake and observing your skin’s response.

Final Thoughts
Chocolate may not directly cause acne, but diet and lifestyle choices can play a role in skin health. If you’re concerned about acne, consider focusing on overall dietary habits rather than singling out specific foods.

Keeping a food journal can help you determine whether your acne worsens when you eat chocolate, something Delost advises for some of his patients.

But unfortunately, that may mean giving up the indulgence, at least some of the time. “Everybody has their own triggers. If chocolate breaks you out, stop eating it,” Farris said.

It’s simple. If you experience acne outbreaks after eating even moderate amounts of dark chocolate, unfortunately, limit or stop eating chocolate.

If you’re concerned about the potential link between chocolate and acne, incorporating skincare products that help manage breakouts is essential. Vivoderm’s Zinc Repairing Facial Cream and Acne Treatment, and Acne Facial Mask are ideal for calming and nourishing acne-prone skin. Zinc is known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, helping to reduce redness, soothe irritation, and minimize the appearance of blemishes. Vivoderm’s formulations are also rich in natural botanicals that promote healing and restore the skin’s barrier, essential for managing acne and preventing future breakouts. By combining a balanced diet with targeted skincare, you can better support clear, healthy skin.

(1) Resource: https://www.cnn.com/2019/02/15/health/chocolate-acne-food-drayer/index.html

What ARE Peptides?

Peptides are short chain amino acids, which are the building blocks of proteins. In skincare, peptides are used to promote skin health and improve skin appearance. Natural peptides in skincare are derived from various sources, including plants, marine organisms, and natural fermentation processes. These peptides are bioactive molecules that help improve skin elasticity, repair, and hydration.

When looking for skincare products with natural peptides, check the ingredient list for terms like “hydrolyzed protein,” “peptide extract,” or the specific plant, marine, or dairy source used. Vivoderm’s herbal-based formulations, like our Herbal Facial Masks – include such natural wheat, fish and milk peptides as well as enzymes, to promote skin health while maintaining an all-natural approach.

We also include natural fish oils as peptides in our Intense Moisturizer and Eye Cream!

Benefits of Peptides in Skincare: 

Stimulate Collagen Production:

Peptides can signal the skin to produce more collagen, which is a protein that provides structure and elasticity. This can help reduce wrinkles, fine lines, and improve skin firmness.

Enhance Skin Elasticity:

Peptides can support the production of elastin, another protein that contributes to skin elasticity. This can help prevent sagging and improve skin tone.

Protect Skin from Damage:

Some peptides have antioxidant properties that can protect the skin from environmental stressors, such as UV radiation and pollution.

Promote Wound Healing:

Peptides can stimulate the skin’s natural healing process, which can help reduce inflammation and scarring.

Improve Skin Hydration:

Certain peptides can attract and retain moisture, leaving the skin feeling soft and supple.

Types of Peptides Used in Skincare:

Signal Peptides: These peptides send signals to the skin to produce specific proteins, such as collagen and elastin.

Carrier Peptides: These peptides carry nutrients and other beneficial ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin.

Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides: These peptides prevent the breakdown of collagen and elastin.

Here are some common sources of natural peptides: 

Plant-Based Peptides 

– Soy Peptides: Derived from soy proteins, they help promote collagen production and improve skin elasticity.

– Rice Peptides: Extracted from rice proteins, they are known for soothing and hydrating the skin.

– Wheat Peptides: Found in hydrolyzed wheat protein, these peptides support skin barrier repair and hydration.

Marine-Derived Peptides 

– Algae and Seaweed Extracts: Rich in bioactive peptides, these ingredients help enhance skin hydration and firmness.

– Fish Collagen Peptides: Hydrolyzed from fish collagen, they support skin regeneration and elasticity.

Natural Fermentation 

– Probiotic Peptides: Generated from the fermentation of natural bacteria like *Lactobacillus*, these peptides can strengthen the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.

Bee Products 

– Royal Jelly Peptides: Found in royal jelly, these peptides offer antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, helping rejuvenate the skin.

Milk and Dairy 

– Casein and Whey Peptides: Derived from milk proteins, they support skin hydration and elasticity.

When choosing skincare products with peptides, consider the specific types of peptides used and their potential benefits needed for your particular skin type.

Collagen, a protein naturally produced by the body, serves as a fundamental component of our skin, hair, and bones, providing structure and elasticity. As we age, collagen production declines, leading to signs of aging such as wrinkles and sagging skin.

One can consider collagen the scaffolding or glue that hold the skin cells together and keeps skin plump and firm. Collagen is the powerhouse protein that acts as the framework holding the body together. Within the skin, it creates a supportive network of fibers that allow new skin cells to grow. With age, this supportive scaffolding starts to break down and the top layer of skin, falls.

Working in tandem with elastin, collagen helps maintain the skin’s plumpness and youthful appearance.

Fun fact: the term “collagen” is derived from the Greek word “kólla,” which means glue!

This has led to the popularity of collagen supplements, with many individuals incorporating them into their diets to promote healthier, more youthful skin.

Dr. H. Adhami, a board-certified holistic dermatologist (and the creator of the Vivoderm line), explains that while the body produces collagen, its natural production decreases over time. This reduction contributes to common aging signs, prompting interest in collagen supplementation. However, Dr. Adhami notes that the effectiveness of consuming collagen supplements for skin improvement is still a subject of ongoing research. Some studies suggest potential benefits, but more comprehensive research is needed to conclusively determine their efficacy.

Collagen consumption is generally considered safe for most people and is not inherently bad for you. However, there are some factors to consider before adding collagen supplements to your diet:

Potential Benefits of Collagen Consumption

1. Skin Health: Collagen may improve skin elasticity, hydration, and overall appearance.
2. Joint Support: Studies suggest collagen can help alleviate joint pain and improve mobility.
3. Bone Health: It may support bone density and strength over time.
4. Gut Health: Collagen contains amino acids like glycine that may help support a healthy gut lining.

Possible Concerns

1. Allergic Reactions: If the collagen is sourced from fish, shellfish, or other allergens, it could cause a reaction in sensitive individuals. Always check the source.
2. Digestive Issues: Some people may experience mild bloating or upset stomach when consuming collagen supplements.
3. Heavy Metals: Poor-quality collagen supplements could contain traces of heavy metals, depending on the sourcing and manufacturing process. Opt for products tested for purity and safety.
4. Efficacy Debate: While collagen has potential benefits, not all supplements are absorbed efficiently, and some benefits may vary depending on the individual.

Who Should Avoid Collagen?

• People with known allergies to the source of the collagen (e.g., fish, bovine, or chicken).
• Those with specific dietary restrictions or ethical concerns, such as vegans, as collagen is animal-derived.
• Individuals with pre-existing kidney issues should consult a healthcare provider, as collagen is protein-rich and may strain the kidneys if consumed in large amounts.

For those seeking to support their skin’s collagen levels naturally, Dr. Adhami recommends a balanced diet rich in protein, vitamin C, and antioxidants, which are essential for collagen synthesis. Additionally, using topical skincare products containing natural retinoids (like Vitamin A or Beta Carotene) and peptides can help stimulate collagen production in the skin. Protecting the skin from excessive sun exposure and avoiding smoking are also crucial steps in preserving collagen levels.

Boosting collagen naturally involves adopting a healthy diet, lifestyle practices, and using skincare products that promote collagen production. Here are some effective natural ways to increase collagen:

Eat Collagen-Boosting Foods

Certain nutrients are essential for collagen production:

– Vitamin C: Found in citrus fruits, strawberries, bell peppers, and leafy greens, it helps synthesize collagen.

– Protein-Rich Foods: Eggs, chicken, fish, tofu, and beans provide amino acids (proline and glycine) that are building blocks of collagen.

– Copper: Present in nuts, seeds, shellfish, and organ meats, copper plays a role in collagen stabilization.

– Zinc: Found in shellfish, pumpkin seeds, and legumes, zinc aids in collagen synthesis and skin repair.

– Sulfur-Rich Foods: Garlic, onions, and cruciferous vegetables (broccoli, cauliflower) support collagen production.

Hydrate Your Skin and Body 

– Drink plenty of water daily to keep your skin hydrated and support cellular health.

– Eat water-rich foods like cucumbers, watermelon, and celery to boost hydration.

VIVODERM Zinc Repairing Cream

Protect Your Skin from Damage 

– Avoid Excess Sun Exposure: Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily to prevent UV-induced collagen breakdown.

– Quit Smoking: Smoking reduces oxygen supply to the skin, impairing collagen production.

– Limit Sugar: High sugar consumption can lead to glycation, which damages collagen fibers and reduces elasticity.

Use Collagen-Stimulating Skincare Products 

– Retinoids: These vitamin A derivatives help stimulate collagen production and improve skin texture.

– Peptides: Look for topical products containing peptides that signal your skin to produce more collagen.

– Antioxidants: Vitamin C serums and other antioxidant-rich skincare protect collagen from oxidative stress.

Stay Physically Active 

Regular exercise improves circulation, delivering nutrients and oxygen to the skin, which supports collagen health.

Consider Natural Supplements 

– Bone Broth: A natural source of collagen and amino acids.

– Hyaluronic Acid-Rich Foods: Sweet potatoes and citrus fruits promote collagen and skin hydration.

Get Adequate Sleep 

Sleep is essential for cell regeneration and collagen production. Aim for 7-9 hours of quality sleep per night.

By integrating these natural strategies into your lifestyle, you can support your body’s ability to produce collagen and maintain healthy, youthful skin.

Bottom Line

For most people, consuming collagen in moderate amounts as part of a balanced diet is safe and potentially beneficial. However, always choose high-quality, well-sourced products and consult a healthcare provider if you have specific concerns or medical conditions.

At Vivoderm Natural Skincare, we emphasize the importance of nourishing your skin with natural ingredients that support its health and vitality. Our products are formulated to enhance your skin’s natural beauty, working in harmony with your body’s processes. While the debate on the efficacy of ingestible collagen continues, adopting a holistic skincare routine that includes a healthy diet, protective measures, and quality topical products remains a reliable approach to maintaining youthful, radiant skin.

Understanding Exfoliation

Your skin undergoes a natural turnover cycle every 30 days or so. When this happens, the upper layer of your skin (epidermis) sheds, revealing new skin from the middle layer of your skin (dermis).

However, the cell turnover cycle isn’t always so clear-cut. Sometimes, dead skin cells don’t fully shed, leading to flaky skin, dry patches, and clogged pores. You can help your body shed these cells through exfoliation.

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the outer layers of the skin with a substance or tool known as an exfoliator. Exfoliators come in many forms, from chemical treatments to brushes.

It can be also beneficial for removing dry or dull skin, increasing blood circulation, and brightening and improving your skin’s appearance.

There are different methods for exfoliation. Your skin type should determine which method you use and how often you exfoliate. For certain skin conditions, including rosacea, exfoliation isn’t usually recommended.

What to use to exfoliate

There are different methods and tools to exfoliate skin. Facial scrubs and brushes are forms of mechanical, or physical, exfoliation. Acids and skin peels are forms of chemical exfoliation.

Mechanical

• Exfoliating brush. This is usually a bristle brush used on the face or body to remove layers of dead skin cells. Some are designed for dry brushing. Others can be used with your facial cleanser or body wash.
• Exfoliation sponge. These are a gentler way to exfoliate skin. You can lather an exfoliating sponge with warm water, soap, or body wash in the shower.
• Exfoliating glove. If you find brushes or sponges difficult to grip, you can use a glove. Lather it with soap or body wash in the shower. They can be effective for large areas such as legs or arms.
• Exfoliating scrub. This can be applied directly to the skin using a gentle, circular motion. You can wash your skin with warm water after applying the scrub.

Chemical

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs). Examples of AHAs include glycolic, lactic, tartaric, and citric acids. These work by breaking apart bonds holding dull and dead skin cells on your skin’s surface. This will cause your skin to naturally shed dead particles.

Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs). Examples of BHAs include beta hydroxyl and salicylic acid. These may be better for acne-prone skin.

How to exfoliate your skin by skin type

When mechanically exfoliating, it’s important to be gentle on your skin. You can make small, circular motions using your finger to apply a scrub or use your exfoliating tool of choice.

If you use a brush, make short, light strokes. Exfoliate for about 30 seconds and then rinse off with lukewarm — not hot — water. Avoid exfoliating if your skin has cuts, open wounds, or is sunburned. Apply moisturizer with SPF after exfoliating.

Dry skin

Exfoliation is important for dry or flaky skin. Avoid mechanical exfoliation on dry skin, because the process is drying and it can lead to microtears. AHAs are effective for dry skin.

Glycolic acid will help remove dead cells sitting on the surface of the skin and encourage healthy skin turnover. Follow up with an SPF and moisturizer after using glycolic acid. It can make the skin more prone to sun damage.

Sensitive skin

Avoid scrubbing or using mechanical methods of exfoliation. These will irritate your skin further and can lead to redness.

Use a mild chemical exfoliator and apply with a gentle washcloth. For acne, you can also try a salicylic acid peel at your dermatologist’s office.

Oily skin

Oily or thicker skin can benefit from manual exfoliation and brushing. Oily skin may have an extra layer of buildup on the surface that manual exfoliation can remove. Gently use an exfoliator or scrub in circular motions for best results.

Normal skin

If your skin doesn’t have any complications, you can choose any method of exfoliation. Manual and chemical exfoliation are both safe for this skin type. You may need to experiment to find out which method works best for your skin.

Combination skin

Combination skin may require a mix of mechanical and chemical exfoliation. Never use both on the same day as it can irritate skin. If your skin feels dry after exfoliation, use a moisturizer immediately after.

Exfoliation by body part

Take care when exfoliating sensitive areas of the body, including the face. Exfoliating these areas too often can lead to dryness, redness, and itchiness.

Face

The type of exfoliant to use on your face depends on your skin type. To exfoliate your face mechanically with a scrub, apply gently to the skin with a finger. Rub in small, circular motions. Rinse with lukewarm water.

For a chemical exfoliant that’s a liquid, apply with a cotton pad or washcloth. Work with a dermatologist to determine which type of exfoliation is safe for your skin.

Arms and legs

The easiest way to exfoliate your arms and legs is with a brush, sponge, or glove. This can help get rid of dead skin cells and stimulate circulation. Look for a body scrub at your local pharmacy or online and lather with it in the shower. You can also try dry brushing.

Feet and hands

There are scrubs and peels available to exfoliate feet and hands. You can also use a pumice stone to exfoliate feet.

Body

You can use a loofah or body brush to exfoliate your body and bikini area. Always do this in a warm shower to soften skin first. Use any device or scrub gently and wash thoroughly afterward.

How often should you exfoliate? 

How often to exfoliate depends on your skin type and the type of exfoliation you’re using. Some chemical exfoliants can be strong, for example. In general, exfoliating skin one to two times a week is enough to be effective for dry skin.

Oily skin may require more frequent exfoliation. Avoid over-exfoliating as it can lead to redness and irritation. Talk to your dermatologist if you need help figuring out how often it’s safe for you to exfoliate.

Exfoliating benefits

The benefits of exfoliation include:

• removing dead skin cells
• improving circulation
• encouraging skin turnover, resulting in brighter skin
• allowing for better absorption of moisturizers and serums

When to stop exfoliating 

Stop exfoliating if you notice your skin is red, inflamed, peeling, or irritated. Avoid exfoliation if you also use certain medications or acne products, including retinol and benzoyl peroxide. It may make your skin worse or lead to breakouts.

Know your skin type

Creative beauty collage – various skin types

Before choosing an exfoliator, it’s important to know what type of skin you have. Keep in mind that your skin type can change with age, weather changes, and lifestyle factors, such as smoking.

There are five major skin types:

• Dry. This skin type is more likely to have dry patches and requires more moisture. You probably notice that your skin gets even dryer in cold, dry weather.
• Combination. This skin type isn’t dry, but it isn’t all-out oily, either. You may have an oily T-zone (nose, forehead, and chin) and dryness around your cheeks and jawline. Combination skin is the most common skin type.
• Oily. This skin type is characterized by excess sebum, the natural oils produced by the sebaceous glands underneath your pores. This often leads to clogged pores and acne.
• Sensitive. This type of skin is easily irritated by fragrances, chemicals, and other synthetic materials. You can have sensitive skin that’s also dry, oily, or combination.
• Normal. This type of skin doesn’t have any dryness, oiliness, or sensitivity. It’s pretty rare, as most people’s skin has at least some oiliness or dryness.

You can see a dermatologist or esthetician to help you determine your skin type. You can also do it at home by following these steps:

1. Wash your face, making sure to remove any makeup well.
2. Dry your face, but don’t apply any toner or moisturizer.
3. Wait one hour and then gently dab a tissue over different parts of your face.

Here’s what you’re looking for:

• If the tissue absorbs oil over your entire face, then you have oily skin.
• If the tissue only absorbs oil in certain areas, you have combination skin.
• If the tissue doesn’t have any oil, you have either normal or dry skin.
• If you have any scaly or flaky areas, you have dry skin.

While it might seem like dry skin is the only type that would have flakes of dead skin cells, this can happen with any skin type. So even if you find some flakes, you’ll want to use an exfoliator that’s best suited for your skin type.

Chemical exfoliation

While it sounds harsh, chemical exfoliation is actually the gentlest exfoliation method. Still, make sure you follow all of the manufacturer’s instructions because you can easily overdo it.

Alpha hydroxy acids

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are plant-based ingredients that help to dissolve dead skin cells on the surface of your face. They work best for dry to normal skin types.

Common AHAs include:

• glycolic acid
• citric acid
• malic acid
• lactic acid

Note, if you’ve never used AHAs, consider starting with a product that just contains one AHA so you can track how your skin reacts to specific ones.

Beta hydroxy acids

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) remove dead skin cells from deep in your pores, which can help to reduce break outs. They’re a good option for oily and combination skin as well as skin that has acne scars or sun spots.

One of the best-known BHAs is salicylic acid, which you can find in many drugstore exfoliators.

Enzymes

Enzyme peels contain enzymes, usually from fruits, that remove dead skin cells on your face. Unlike AHAs or BHAs, enzyme peels won’t increase cellular turnover, meaning it won’t expose a fresh layer of skin. This makes them an especially good option for people with sensitive skin.

Mechanical exfoliation

Mechanical exfoliation works by physically removing dead skin rather than dissolving it. It’s less gentle than chemical exfoliation and works best for normal to oily skin. Avoid using mechanical exfoliation on sensitive or dry skin.

Powders

Exfoliating powders, like our herbal facial mask (Anti-Aging and Acne) use fine particles to both absorb oil and remove dead skin. To use it, mix the powder with some water until it forms a paste that you can custom-blend to your skin type and needs. For stronger results or spot treatments, use less water to create a thicker paste.

Dry brushing

Dry brushing involves using soft bristles to brush dead skin cells away. Use a small brush with natural bristles, and gently brush damp skin in small circles for up to 30 seconds. You should only use this method on skin that’s free of any small cuts or irritation.

Washcloth

If you’re one of the lucky few with normal skin, you may be able to exfoliate just by drying your face with a washcloth. After washing your face, gently move a soft washcloth in small circles to remove dead skin cells and dry your face.

What not to use

Regardless of your skin type, avoid exfoliators that contain irritating or coarse particles, which can injure your skin. When it comes to exfoliation, not all products are created equal. Many scrubs that have exfoliants in them are too harsh for your skin.

Stay away from exfoliators that contain:

• sugar
• beads
• nut shells
• microbes
• coarse salt
• baking soda

Important safety tips

Exfoliation usually leaves you with smoother, softer skin. To maintain these results, make sure you follow up with a good moisturizer that’s best for your skin type.

If you have dry skin, opt for a cream moisturizer, which is richer than a lotion one. If you have combination or oily skin, look for a light, oil-free lotion or gel-based moisturizer.

While you probably already know about the importance of wearing sunscreen, it’s even more important if you’ve been exfoliating.

Acids and mechanical exfoliation remove a full layer of skin from your face. The newly exposed skin is very sensitive to sunlight and much more likely to burn. Try to use a natural mineral-based sunscreen with ZINC or TITANIUM OXIDES, like the Vivoderm Zinc Repairing Facial Moisturizer which doubles as a moisturizer with 25%SPF.

In addition, you should be extra cautious with exfoliation if you have:

• an active acne breakout
• an underlying condition that causes lesions on your face, such as cold sores
• rosacea
• warts

Finally, before trying any new product on your skin, do a small patch test first. Apply a little bit of the new product to a small area of your body, like the inside of your arm. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application and removal.

If you don’t notice any signs of irritation after 24 hours, you can try using it on your face.

The bottom line

Proper exfoliation is effective in removing dead skin from your face. This will leave you with smoother, softer skin. If you wear makeup, also notice that exfoliation helps it to go on more evenly.

Just make sure you start slow to determine which products and types of exfoliants your skin can handle, and always follow up with moisturizer and sunscreen!

Post-Halloween Skincare Reset with Vivoderm Natural Skincare

The spooky season is over, and while you may have loved your Halloween makeup, it’s time to let your skin breathe and recover. All those costumes, face paints, and late nights can leave your skin feeling tired, congested, and in need of a refresh. Fortunately, Vivoderm Natural Skincare offers a suite of products perfect for reviving your skin after Halloween. Here’s a guide to using Vivoderm’s Green Tea Facial Toner, Chamomile Cream Cleanser, Herbal Anti-Acne Face Mask, Zinc Repairing Facial Cream, and Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream to restore your skin’s natural glow.

Step 1: DOUBLE CLEANSE

Start your double-cleansing routine with an oil-based make-up remover or micellar water specifically designed to break down waterproof makeup. Be sure the last remnants of any stubborn Halloween makeup has been removed. Using natural oils like Jojoba or Almond oil will capture makeup and grime without any harsh pulling at your skin or eyes.

Cleanse Gently with the Chamomile Cream Cleanser

After removing any residual makeup, start your skincare routine with Vivoderm’s Chamomile Cream Cleanser. Chamomile is renowned for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, making it perfect for sensitive or irritated post-Halloween skin. The cleanser gently removes impurities and any last traces of makeup without stripping the skin’s natural oils. This step preps your skin for the rest of your routine, leaving it clean, soft, and ready for hydration.

  Step 2: Refresh with Green Tea Facial Toner

Once you’ve cleansed, it’s time to balance and tone. Vivoderm’s Green Tea Facial Toner harnesses the antioxidant power of green tea to help protect your skin from environmental stressors. Green tea is packed with polyphenols, which fight free radicals and calm inflammation. This toner will help tighten pores, reduce redness, and improve overall skin texture, giving you a fresh and rejuvenated appearance. Simply apply a small amount to a cotton pad and swipe it gently over your face.

Step 3: Detoxify with the Herbal Anti-Acne Face Mask

Next up is the Herbal Anti-Acne Face Mask, which is perfect for anyone dealing with breakouts after Halloween. Formulated with herbal extracts Rosemary, Marshmallow, Dill, Aloe Vera, Lavender, Mint, Oregano, natural Lactic Acid, Green Tea, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Vitamin B2, Vitamin B5, Vitamin B6, Biotin (Vitamin H)! This mask offers EVERYTHING your skin needs for a deep cleanse while balancing oil production and purifying the skin. It helps to minimize acne and soothe inflamed areas without causing dryness or irritation. Apply the mask evenly over your face, let it sit for 15–20 minutes, and rinse off to reveal clearer, healthier-looking skin.

If you are looking to restore dry, dehydrated and dull skin – the Anti-Aging Mask will do the TRICK!

Step 4: Restore with Zinc Repairing Facial Cream

Post-Halloween skin needs some TLC, and Vivoderm’s Zinc Repairing Facial Cream is a great solution. Zinc is known for its healing and anti-inflammatory properties, which can help calm irritated or sensitive skin. This cream is enriched with aloe vera and other nourishing botanicals to provide deep hydration while restoring the skin’s natural barrier. Apply it evenly across your face and neck to lock in moisture and protect your skin from further damage.

Step 5: Nourish the Eyes with Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream

Late nights and makeup can leave the delicate eye area looking tired. Vivoderm’s Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream is packed with hydrating and anti-aging ingredients like vitamin E, Beta Carotene and aloe. This cream helps reduce fine lines, puffiness, and dark circles, revitalizing your eyes for a brighter, refreshed appearance. Gently pat a small amount around your eye area for a youthful, well-rested look.

Post-Halloween skincare doesn’t have to be complicated, and with Vivoderm Natural Skincare products, you can enjoy an easy, effective routine that restores, hydrates, and protects. By following these steps, you’ll help your skin bounce back, feeling fresh, healthy, and glowing well into the fall season.

Glow Up with Customized Herbal Facial Masks from Home!

In the age of self-care, there’s nothing quite like pampering your skin with a luxurious at-home facial mask. For those with dry skin, finding the right ingredients that nourish, hydrate, and rejuvenate can be a game-changer. The Vivoderm Herbal Anti-Aging Mask, already contains a variety of natural herbs, including: Oat Flour, Rosemary, Marshmallow, Lavender, Yogurt Powder, Aloe Vera, Green Tea, and six complex vitamins! It offers a potent foundation for creating your own natural skincare masks. Combined with a few choice ingredients from your pantry, you can elevate your skincare routine to new heights, turning a simple mask into a powerhouse of hydration and nourishment.

The Vivoderm Herbal Anti-Aging Mask is a versatile skincare product that harnesses the power of natural botanicals to combat the signs of aging while deeply nourishing the skin. Its proprietary blend of herbs is designed to soothe, protect, and rejuvenate the skin. This mask is particularly effective for those with dry skin, as it already contains ingredients that help to lock in moisture, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Formulated with potent botanicals of oat flour, marshmallow, and aloe vera – all known for their soothing and hydrating properties. The mask’s anti-aging benefits are enhanced by the inclusion of rich antioxidants that help protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals.

Why Customize Your Facial Mask?

While the Vivoderm Herbal Anti-Aging Mask is a powerful treatment on its own, customizing it with additional natural ingredients can provide targeted benefits for dry skin. By adding hydrating elements like honey, yogurt, or avocado, you can enhance the mask’s moisturizing properties, creating a spa-like experience in the comfort of your own home.

Customizing your facial mask allows you to tailor your skincare routine to your skin’s specific needs. Whether you’re dealing with seasonal dryness, irritation, or simply want to boost your skin’s radiance, you can adjust the ingredients to deliver exactly what your skin craves.

The Power of Natural Ingredients for Dry Skin

Dry skin requires ingredients that offer deep hydration, nourishment, and a protective barrier against moisture loss. Below are some natural ingredients that pair beautifully with the Vivoderm Herbal Anti-Aging Mask to create a deeply nourishing treatment for dry skin:

1. Honey

Honey is a natural humectant, meaning it draws moisture into the skin and helps retain it. It’s also packed with antioxidants and has antibacterial properties, making it an excellent choice for keeping the skin hydrated and clear. Adding a teaspoon of raw honey to your Vivoderm mask can amplify its moisturizing effects, leaving your skin soft and glowing.

2. Avocado

Rich in healthy fats, vitamins, and antioxidants, avocado is a superfood for your skin. It provides deep hydration and helps restore the skin’s natural moisture barrier. Mash half an avocado and mix it with the Vivoderm mask for an ultra-nourishing treatment that replenishes dry, dull skin.

3. Yogurt

Yogurt is not only a great source of probiotics but also contains lactic acid, which gently exfoliates the skin, helping to remove dead skin cells and improve texture. It also hydrates and soothes the skin, making it a perfect companion to the Vivoderm mask. A tablespoon of plain yogurt mixed into the mask can help smooth rough patches and leave your skin feeling refreshed.

4. Aloe Vera

Aloe vera is a powerhouse when it comes to soothing and hydrating the skin. It’s especially beneficial for dry or irritated skin due to its anti-inflammatory properties. Mixing a tablespoon of fresh aloe vera gel into your Vivoderm mask can enhance its calming and moisturizing effects, providing relief for parched skin.

5. Oatmeal

Oatmeal is known for its ability to soothe and protect the skin, making it a go-to ingredient for those with dry or sensitive skin. It acts as a gentle exfoliant, removing dead skin cells while locking in moisture. Adding a teaspoon of finely ground oatmeal to the Vivoderm mask creates a rich, nourishing treatment that leaves your skin feeling smooth and supple.

DIY Recipes: Elevate Your Mask Experience

Here are a few easy-to-make recipes using the Vivoderm Herbal Anti-Aging Mask as a base, combined with these natural ingredients, to create custom treatments tailored to your skin’s needs.

1. Honey and Avocado Moisture Mask

Ingredients:

– 1 tablespoon Vivoderm Herbal Anti-Aging Mask

– 1 teaspoon raw honey

– ½ ripe avocado, mashed

Instructions:

1. In a small bowl, mix the Vivoderm mask with the mashed avocado until smooth.
2. Add the honey and stir until well combined.
3. Apply the mixture to your face, avoiding the eye area.
4. Leave the mask on for 15-20 minutes.
5. Rinse off with lukewarm water and pat your skin dry.

Benefits: This mask is a moisture bomb for dry skin. The honey locks in hydration, while the avocado replenishes essential fatty acids, leaving your skin plump and glowing.

2. Yogurt and Aloe Vera Soothing Mask

Ingredients:

– 1 tablespoon Vivoderm Herbal Anti-Aging Mask

– 1 tablespoon plain yogurt

– 1 tablespoon fresh aloe vera gel

Instructions:

1. Combine the Vivoderm mask, yogurt, and aloe vera gel in a bowl.
2. Mix until you achieve a smooth consistency.
3. Apply the mask evenly over your face.
4. Allow it to sit for 15-20 minutes.
5. Rinse off with cool water and gently pat your skin dry.

Benefits: This mask is perfect for soothing and hydrating irritated, dry skin. The lactic acid in yogurt gently exfoliates, while aloe vera calms and moisturizes, leaving your skin soft and refreshed.

3. Oatmeal and Honey Exfoliating Mask

Ingredients:

– 1 tablespoon Vivoderm Herbal Anti-Aging Mask

– 1 teaspoon finely ground oatmeal

– 1 teaspoon raw honey

Instructions:

Vivoderm Herbal Facial Mask

1. In a bowl, mix the Vivoderm mask with the ground oatmeal.
2. Add the honey and stir until you have a thick, even paste.
3. Gently apply the mixture to your face in circular motions, focusing on dry areas.
4. Leave the mask on for 15 minutes.
5. Rinse off with lukewarm water, massaging your skin as you go to exfoliate.

Benefits: This mask not only hydrates but also exfoliates, removing dead skin cells that can make dry skin look dull. The oatmeal gently buffs the skin, while honey provides deep moisture.

Crafting Your Perfect Mask

Using the Vivoderm Herbal Anti-Aging Mask as a base, you can create a variety of customized facial masks that cater specifically to the needs of dry skin. By incorporating natural ingredients like honey, avocado, yogurt, aloe vera, and oatmeal, you can enhance the mask’s hydrating and soothing properties, ensuring your skin gets the nourishment it deserves.

At-home facial masks are not just a skincare routine—they’re a form of self-care. Taking the time to blend these ingredients and apply a mask is a small but significant way to show your skin some love. Whether you’re looking to soothe, hydrate, or rejuvenate, these DIY masks offer an affordable and effective way to keep your skin looking and feeling its best. So go ahead, indulge in the luxury of an at-home spa day, and let your skin glow from the inside out.

Dr. Adhami chose Willow Bark Extract as one of the very first (strongest) herbal ingredients in the Vivoderm Facial Toner.

Willow bark extract, derived from the bark of various willow trees, has been used for centuries for its medicinal properties. In recent years, it has gained popularity in the skincare industry due to its numerous benefits. Here’s a closer look at why willow bark extract is a valuable addition to your skincare routine.

1. Natural Exfoliation Willow bark extract contains salicin, a natural source of salicylic acid, which is known for its exfoliating properties. It helps to gently remove dead skin cells, promoting a smoother and more radiant complexion. This natural exfoliation process can help to unclog pores and prevent acne breakouts.

2. Anti-Inflammatory Properties
One of the standout benefits of willow bark extract is its anti-inflammatory properties. It can help to reduce redness and irritation, making it an excellent choice for those with sensitive or acne-prone skin. The anti-inflammatory effects can also soothe conditions like eczema and rosacea.

3. Antioxidant Benefits
Willow bark extract is rich in antioxidants, which help to protect the skin from environmental stressors such as pollution and UV radiation. These antioxidants can neutralize free radicals, preventing premature aging and promoting a youthful appearance.

4. Oil Control
For those with oily skin, willow bark extract can be particularly beneficial. It helps to regulate oil production, reducing the appearance of oily skin and minimizing the formation of blackheads and whiteheads. This makes it a great ingredient for maintaining a balanced complexion.

5. Anti-Aging Effects
The combination of exfoliating, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties makes willow bark extract a powerful anti-aging ingredient. It can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin texture, and promote a more youthful complexion.

6. Gentle on the Skin
Unlike some harsher chemical exfoliants, willow bark extract is gentle and suitable for most skin types, including sensitive skin. It provides effective exfoliation and anti-aging benefits without causing irritation or dryness.

How to Use Willow Bark Extract in Your Skincare Routine
Willow bark extract can be found in various skincare products, including cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers. To incorporate it into your routine:

Cleanser: Use a willow bark extract-infused cleanser to gently exfoliate and cleanse your skin.

Use the Vivoderm Facial Toner: with willow bark extract to balance your skin’s pH and prepare it for the next steps.

Serum: Use a serum containing willow bark extract to target specific skin concerns like acne or aging.

Moisturizer: Finish with a moisturizer that includes willow bark extract to lock in hydration and provide ongoing benefits.

As you can see, willow bark extract is a versatile and effective ingredient that offers numerous benefits for the skin. From gentle exfoliation and anti-inflammatory properties to antioxidant protection and oil control, it can help to improve the overall health and appearance of your skin. Whether you have sensitive, oily, or aging skin, incorporating willow bark extract into your skincare routine can lead to a clearer, smoother, and more radiant complexion.

FAQ

Should I wear sunscreen while using willow bark extract?

While sunscreen should be a regular part of your skincare routine, it’s especially important to use with any sort of exfoliating ingredient, including willow bark extract.

How often can I use willow bark extract in my skincare routine?

Unlike salicylic acid, willow bark extract is gentle enough to be used daily.

What skin types are best suited for willow bark extract?

Willow bark extract is a great ingredient to use for oily, acne-prone, and sensitive skin.

Learn more about the benefits of all our ingredients and great skincare tips by following us on Facebook and Instagram!

As we bid adieu to the cold, harsh winter and welcome the gentle warmth of spring, it’s not just our wardrobes that need a seasonal overhaul. Our skin, having braved the winter chills, now faces a new set of challenges with the changing weather. The arrival of spring calls for a refreshed skincare routine that caters to the evolving needs of your skin. Let’s dive into how you can transition your skincare regimen to embrace the vibrant energy of spring.

1. Lighten Up on Moisture

Winter skincare is synonymous with heavy, rich moisturizers designed to combat dryness. However, as the mercury rises, it’s time to switch to lighter formulas. Opt for a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizer that hydrates without weighing your skin down. Oil-free moisturizers can be particularly refreshing and are ideal for maintaining balance as temperatures warm. The Vivoderm Anti-Aging Daily Moisturizer is a perfect transition for the warmer weather!

2. SPF: Your Non-Negotiable Companion ☀️

The cornerstone of spring skincare is robust sun protection. With days getting longer and the sun shining brighter, shielding your skin from UV rays is crucial. Make sunscreen a non-negotiable part of your morning routine, choosing a product with at least SPF 30. Remember, UVA and UVB protection is essential, even on cloudy days, as harmful rays can penetrate through the clouds.

3. Exfoliate with Care

Shedding the dullness of winter skin begins with proper exfoliation. Transitioning into spring, it’s important to slough off dead skin cells to reveal a brighter, more even complexion. Incorporate a gentle exfoliant into your routine, choosing between mechanical exfoliators or chemical exfoliants like AHAs (glycolic acid) and BHAs (salicylic acid). However, moderation is key—over-exfoliating can lead to irritation and sensitivity.

4. Antioxidant Power

Spring is the perfect time to bolster your skin’s defense against environmental aggressors. Antioxidants like vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid not only protect against free radical damage but also brighten the skin and help reduce the appearance of dark spots. Incorporating a serum enriched with antioxidants in the morning can provide a protective barrier against pollutants and enhance your skin’s natural radiance.

5. Stay Hydrated Inside and Out

Hydration is a year-round necessity. As we enjoy more outdoor activities, keeping our skin and body hydrated becomes even more important. Continue to drink plenty of water throughout the day and consider using a hydrating serum or essence to keep your skin plump and nourished.

6. Tailor to Your Skin’s Needs

Finally, listen to your skin. The transition from winter to spring can vary in its effects on different skin types. Pay attention to how your skin responds to changes in your routine and be ready to adapt. Whether it’s incorporating more hydrating products, reducing exfoliation, or seeking out specific treatments for spring-related skin concerns, customization is key.

Embracing the Season

Spring is a season of renewal and growth, not just for nature but for our skin as well. By adapting your skincare routine to the changing climate, you can ensure that your skin remains healthy, radiant, and ready to enjoy the beauty of spring. Remember, the goal is to support your skin’s natural balance and protect it from seasonal challenges, ensuring a smooth transition into the warmer months ahead.

The Best (& Worst) Ingredients for Rosacea Skin – Complete Guide

One of the key factors for healthy skin is the skin barrier, aka the stratum corneum. This barrier acts as a protective shield by blocking out unwanted substances and preventing moisture loss. However, in rosacea skin, this barrier can be severely compromised.

This is where knowing your skin care ingredients can make a huge difference.

In this article, we’re going to look at the best ingredients for rosacea and how they support not the skin barrier, but the overall health of your skin. In addition, we will briefly dive into ingredients that are generally best to avoid if you have rosacea.

TOP 15 INGREDIENTS FOR ROSACEA SKIN

1. Zinc Oxide

Zinc has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that have been shown to help rosacea when used internally and topically.

When it comes to internal use, one study showed that taking 100 mg of zinc sulfate supplements helped to alleviate rosacea symptoms. In addition, the supplements didn’t produce any major side effects, except for mild gastrointestinal upset in 3 of the 25 study participants.

As for topical use, zinc oxide is a good choice for sunscreen because it’s a physical sunscreen, as opposed to a chemical sunscreen which is absorbed into the skin and can cause irritation.

In addition, zinc oxide has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties that can soothe redness, reduce the size of pores and regulate oil production.

2. Green Tea
Green tea is best known for being antioxidant-rich and anti-inflammatory. A lot of this is due to EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate), which is the most abundant – and most studied – antioxidant in green tea.

In fact, research has shown that a cream containing EGCG reduced the number of lesions in people with papulopustular rosacea.

It’s also worth noting that green tea, comes in two forms: standard green tea and matcha (green tea leaves that have been ground into a powder).

Matcha can have up to 3 times more antioxidants. So, whether you’re making your own DIY products or purchasing one, look out for matcha.

3. Hyaluronic Acid, Glycerin and Other Humectants

Humectants are an essential part of a rosacea skin care routine because they attract water and subsequently, increase the skin’s moisture levels.  Some of the main humectants to consider adding to your skin care routine include:  glycerin, aloe vera, hyaluronic acid, honey, seaweed, oats,

4. Vitamin C

Vitamin C has proven to be an effective topical therapy for rosacea because of its anti-inflammatory effect and ability to protect against free radical damage. But note that the research done on vitamin C and rosacea used ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C). While ascorbic acid is definitely very effective, it can be too harsh for some people.

So, what’s a better alternative? Use a vitamin C derivative. These are gentler on the skin, more stable and they tend to penetrate the skin better. Some examples of these derivatives include:

L-Ascorbic Acid (L-AA).
Ascorbyl Glucoside.
Methylated L-Ascorbic Acid.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP).

5. Carrier Oils
Because they’re particularly rich essential fatty acids and antioxidants, carrier oils are a great way to nourish your skin and support delicate rosacea-prone skin.

Furthermore, oils that are rich in the fatty acid, linoleic acid, can be particularly beneficial for rosacea. This is because linoleic acid is an essential component of the skin barrier and has powerful anti-inflammatory properties.

Some of the best plant-based oils to include for rosacea skin care routine are:

Rosehip oil: Rich in linoleic acid, vitamin A (in the form of beta-carotene) and antioxidants like vitamin E, anthocyanin and polyphenols. Brightens the skin, improves elasticity, and reduces inflammation.
Grapeseed oil: Rich in linoleic acid. Has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. Packed with antioxidants like tocopherol (vitamin E), resveratrol (which we’ll be discussing later) and quercetin.
Sea buckthorn oil: High in omega 3, 6, and 9 fatty acids. Also a rare plant-based source of palmitoleic acid, an omega 7 fatty acid that has powerful anti-inflammatory and wound healing properties (source).
Jojoba oil: Suitable for oily or acne-prone skin since its composition is so similar to our natural skin sebum. Also has antibacterial, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties.

6. Azelaic Acid
This natural compound is commonly found in grains like wheat, barley and rye. When used on the skin, azelaic acid exhibits anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects that are helpful for rosacea or acne-prone skin. More specifically, research shows azelaic acid reduces redness and the number of inflammatory lesions.

It’s worth noting that the research on azelaic acid used a 15% azelaic acid gel and focused on mild to moderate papulopustular rosacea.

7. Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA)
Unlike alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) provide a gentler form of chemical exfoliation that can be helpful for some rosacea patients.

In particular, BHAs like salicylic acid can improve your skin if you tend to get acne or oily skin.

That said, BHAs can be too strong for some people. As is always the case with rosacea, listen to your skin.

NOTE: a gentler alternative to BHAs is goat milk. Although it is an alpha hydroxy acid – which is usually a no-no for rosacea – there is anecdotal evidence that goat milk can actually be very soothing to sensitive skin.

8. Oats
(Colloidal oats) Oats have traditionally been used to soothe inflamed and irritated skin. The main reason why oats are so helpful for sensitive skin is because they have humectant properties that pull moisture to the skin and increase ceramide levels. These ceramides are fatty compounds that soften the skin and also help lower inflammation. When using oats for rosacea, you can use them in the form of colloidal oats or oat oil.

Colloidal oats are simply oats that have been ground into a fine powder (not to be confused with oat flour). They’re great for DIY face masks!

As for oat oil, it’s packed with antioxidants and fatty acids. Research shows that it repairs the skin barrier, even though it has only a moderate amount of linoleic acid (36 – 46%).

9. Resveratrol
Resveratrol is used internally and topically, because of its protective antioxidant properties and its connection to increasing collagen III.

This specific type of collagen is often damaged by excessively dilated blood vessels. This means those with rosacea can already have compromised collagen III levels.

When you increase type III you encourage fibroblast function. This is significant for the skin because fibroblasts are the cells that produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.

Lastly, one particular study showed that topical use of a product containing resveratrol, green tea and caffeine reduces redness.

While it’s not clear exactly how much resveratrol alone reduces redness, the results of this study are promising for anyone with inflamed skin.

10. Rose water (or pure hydrosol)
Rose water is a by-product of the production of rose essential oil. It contains very little essential oils (about 0.05%) which means it’s less likely to irritate the skin.

Overall rosewater helps to:

soothe redness and inflammation.
hydrate the skin.
balance pH.
reduce oiliness.
fight off free radicals (thanks to its antioxidant content.
For rosacea, combining rosewater and glycerin can be particularly soothing and hydrating.

11. Aloe Vera
Aloe vera gel is an incredibly hydrating humectant that also packs in lots of nutrients, including:

• minerals like zinc, selenium and manganese
• vitamins C and E
• B-vitamins
• antioxidants like beta-carotene

In addition, aloe stimulates fibroblasts (those cells that produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid). It’s no wonder, that this natural ingredient is used for dryness, itching, inflammation and anti-aging!

But that’s not all. Consuming aloe juice is often used in some detoxes. It may help to lower inflammation and promote the elimination of toxins that are contributing to skin issues.

12. Niacinamide
Niacinamide is one of the B vitamins – specifically, one of the two forms of vitamin B3 – that stimulates collagen production, improves cell turnover, and helps smooth the surface of the skin.

In fact, because of its potency, niacinamide is used as an alternative to topical antibiotics that are prescribed for rosacea.

13. Ceramides
Ceramides are found naturally in the outermost layer of the skin. They help regulate moisture loss, protect the skin barrier and prevent the development of skin conditions.

According to various publications, these ceramides are found at lower levels in rosacea-prone skin. This makes the external application of ceramides to your skin crucial.

If this isn’t enough evidence for their relevance with rosacea, a survey of dermatologists unanimously concluded ceramides contribute to successful rosacea therapy.

14. Sulfur
While the use of sulfur for skin conditions goes as far as back ancient Egypt, the first effective (and documented) use of sulfur for rosacea dates back to 1855. These days it’s available commercially in a variety of over-the-counter products and has been shown to reduce inflammatory lesions and perilesional erythema. It is best used for acne-rosacea. Modern sulphur containing formulations for rosacea incorporate 10% sodium sulfacetamide combined with 5% sulphur. The new foam formulations are easier to apply and exude fewer odors. Antiseptic, antibacterial, and antifungal properties have been attributed to sulphur.

Despite these positive outcomes, sulfur can cause unwanted side effects such as dryness, itchiness, irritation or temporary redness. (Use with caution).

15. Herbs
Herbs offer bioactive compounds that can benefit rosacea skin in various ways. For example, research shows that licorice root can improve redness and redness when applied twice a day over the course of four weeks (source).

Similarly, feverfew has been identified in clinical studies as an herbal remedy for rosacea. This herb offers UV protection (helping to shield the skin from potentially aggravating UV rays) and has antioxidant properties (source).

INGREDIENTS TO AVOID FOR ROSACEA
In general, it’s best to avoid these ingredients if you have rosacea (1, 2, 3):

Artificial fragrance.
Sodium lauryl sulfate.
Menthol.
Drying alcohols.
Camphor.
Tretinoin.
Urea.
Essential oils like eucalyptus and peppermint.
Benzoyl peroxide.
Hydroquinone.
Physical scrubs (such as sugar scrubs).
Astringents.
Lastly, witch hazel is another ingredient that can be troublesome for rosacea. However, it’s worth noting that witch hazel extracts can be extracted either in alcohol or water.

Unfortunately, many skin care companies use the alcohol-extracted form. So, a lot of the irritation that people experience with witch hazel, often comes from the leftover alcohol.

Witch hazel itself is a soothing herb. So, if you’d like to try witch hazel, find one that is extracted in water (and check with your dermatologist before adding it to your routine).

FAQs ABOUT ROSACEA INGREDIENTS
Is retinol good for rosacea?
In certain cases, retinol can help rosacea. But retinol is a potent ingredient and it could cause dryness, plus other forms of irritation.

So, if you decide to add retinol to your rosacea routine, make sure to use it sparingly, especially at the beginning. Also, seek guidance from your dermatologist in terms of what strength of retinol to use and how often.

Is vitamin E good for rosacea?
Vitamin E has various healing properties that could help rosacea. When used topically it reduces dryness and combats oxidative damage. According to anecdotal reports, vitamin E oil may also improve dryness, reduce acne flare ups and lower redness.

Is olive leaf extract good for rosacea?
While there isn’t research specifically on olive leaf and rosacea, olive contains compounds like oleuropein, which has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. One study showed that olive leaf extract has skin-rejuvenating abilities (source). This might benefit rosacea-prone skin.

In addition, olive leaf supports the immune system and is used as a supplement for candida overgrowth. Some people link rosacea to candida. So, depending on the underlying cause of your rosacea, olive leaf may help.

Is collagen cream good for rosacea?
The evidence indicates collagen cream can have a positive influence on rosacea. Research has shown a strong correlation between collagen and microvessels: when collagen levels decrease, microvessel density and size increase. This can worsen skin that’s already prone to abnormal vascular functioning.

Topically applying collagen could help counteract this tendency, thus improving the skin’s underlying structure and strength.

Is vaseline good for rosacea?
As an occlusive, vaseline prevents water loss. For rosacea, it can be applied onto damp skin to lock in moisture.

CONCLUSION
While there’s no perfect ingredient or remedy for rosacea, there are many scientifically-backed ingredients that can help and many different types of ingredients that you can add to your skin care routine. You can find MANY of these ingredients in the Vivoderm products, including the Zinc Repairing Facial Cream and the Herbal Facial Acne Mask and Anti-Aging Masks.

GET YOUR ACNE SKIN BACK IN BALANCE

• Keep your skin clean. Gently wash your face up to twice daily and after sweating. Choose a gentle, non-abrasive cleanser. Apply it with your fingertips, as scrubbing with washcloths, sponges, and other tools can irritate your skin.
• Choose the right skin care. Use gentle skin care products and ones that say “alcohol-free” on the label. Avoid products that can irritate your skin, including astringents, toners, and exfoliants. These products can dry your skin and make acne appear worse.
• Shampoo regularly. The oil from your hair can cause acne on your forehead. If you have oily hair, shampoo more often than you do now and keep your hair away from your face.
• Stick to your treatment. Trying new acne treatments too often can irritate your skin and cause breakouts. Give your treatment time to work. It may take several weeks to few months before you see a difference.
• Keep your hands off. Touching your face throughout the day can cause acne to flare. While it can be tempting to pick, pop, or squeeze your acne, doing so will make the acne take longer to clear and increase your risk for scarring and dark spots called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
• Stay out of the sun and tanning beds. Along with increasing your risk for skin cancer, tanning damages your skin and can worsen acne. Some acne medications can also make your skin very sensitive to damaging ultraviolet rays from the sun and tanning beds.Protect your skin by avoiding tanning — indoors and out — and by seeking shade, wearing sun-protective clothing, and applying a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher to all skin not covered by clothing when outdoors. Look for a sunscreen that says “non-comedogenic” or “won’t clog pores.” For more effective protection, select clothing with an ultraviolet protection factor (or UPF) number on the label.

Acne takes time to clear. If you keep seeing breakouts after following these tips, partner with a board-certified dermatologist. Dermatologists can treat existing acne, prevent new breakouts from forming, and reduce your chance of developing scars.

See more acne tips and skin resources at the American Academy of Dermatology Association

https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/acne/skin-care

Originally written by Rachelle Dupree for Dermascope Magazine, January 2019 ©

https://www.dermascope.com/ingredients/9893-herbal-remedies-a-breakdown-of-cbd-oil

CBD is an abbreviation for cannabidiol. It is derived from hemp, a variant of the cannabis (marijuana) plant. Marijuana plants typically contain both THC and CBD, and these compounds have different effects depending on how the plant is grown and processed.

Recently, traditional medical practitioners, as well as holistic health experts, have begun recommending CBD oils and topical salve compounds to treat everything from anxiety, insomnia, and stress to some types of pain, inflammation, seizures, and even acne. This oil has also been proven to be a potent anti-inflammatory.

Unlike the high produced from THC, CBD is not psychoactive. This means that CBD does not change a person’s state of mind when they use it. Most hemp/cannabidiol products contain little, if any, THC.

In order to be effective as a topical or ingested treatment, CBD has to be safely concentrated. Products containing the CBD compound are now legal in many states in the United States where marijuana is not legal.
In June 2018, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved the prescription use of Epidiolex, a purified form of CBD oil, for treating two types of epilepsy. This has opened numerous paths of study for further pharmacological applications. The long-term results are still under evaluation, but many patients have reported markedly improved results for their ailments without the same side effects of other laboratory-formulated medicines.

So far, researchers have found no significant side effects on the central nervous system, vital signs, or mood – even among people who use high dosages.

CBD treatment options even branch out to cystic, chronic forms of acne, or acne vulgaris, caused by inflammation and overworked sebaceous glands.

How does it work? All cannabinoids, including CBD, produce effects in the body by attaching to certain receptors already present in the human body and brain. The main receptors present from CBD usage include the body’s own innate endocannabinoid system and CB2 receptors, which are more commonly found in the immune system. They affect inflammation and pain.

For those considering using CBD oils or topicals, doctors recommend buying only those products derived from organic hemp, processed without harsh solvents and pesticides. If possible, it is a good idea to view the certificates of analysis for each product to see exactly what is included. Ninety-nine percent of cannabidiol oil is available without a prescription and can be purchased online and in health food stores. To reduce inflammation, topical CBD is absorbed through the skin and into the fatty sheath around a painful or damaged nerve. At least one month of consistent treatment is recommended to feel results.

Anyone who is considering using CBD oils or topical creams should talk to a qualified healthcare practitioner beforehand. They can provide information about safe CBD sources, dosages, and local laws surrounding usage.

Cellulite Uncovered: Homecare and Medical Spa Treatments

Originally written by Rachelle Dupree for Dermascope Magazine, February 2018 ©

https://www.dermascope.com/treatments/cellulite-uncovered-homecare-and-medical-spa-treatments

© Originally published in Dermascope online magazine: http://www.dermascope.com/wholistic/understanding-hydrosols-and-essential-oils

Many of us do not realize how good we have it until it’s going or gone.  Unfortunately, this applies to skincare as well. In your 20’s, your skin is at it’s most supple, plump and wrinkle-free. While you might suffer from occasional bouts of acne due to hormones, collagen stores are plentiful and there’s not a crow’s foot in sight. The most you may have to do is cleanse, tone, apply sunscreen and get on with your day. But make no mistake, doing something is preferable to skipping a skincare routine all together. Doing nothing can really backfire as you age. Preventative care is what you are aiming for now.

By your 30’s the skin might start to show signs of aging, depending on how much time you spent in the sun and how little you did or did not follow a skincare regimen in your 20’s. Crow’s feet might begin to show around the eyes, and laugh lines may appear around the mouth. Sun spots and hyper-pigmentation can also be a new cause for alarm. These new signs of aging will appear not only on your face, but on your hands, neck and decolletage area as well – anywhere that gets constant sun exposure will be at risk. Collagen levels also begin to drop in your 30’s and 40’s and skin will slowly begin to thin and sag. If you make an extra effort to care for your skin from an early age, then you can do much to prevent the early signs of aging.

If you were not one to start early with a skincare regimen and have noticed those small signs of aging creeping up, never fear. There is a lot you can still do to prevent future skin damage and even repair or reverse your age spots and wrinkles. Besides your basic daily skin care routine – cleansing, toning, moisturizing – it is important to also use a few anti aging skin care products. Nowadays there are many different products and treatments available in the market to prevent signs of aging. Some products might be laden with chemicals, acids and other ingredients promising fast, extreme results. It is up to you and perhaps your dermatologist to determine the products that will be most effective for your skin type.

Custom-blend, powdered herbal facial mask

Vivoderm is natural-based skincare line that always recommends using products that are as gentle and chemical-free as possible. One of the most successful products in the Vivoderm Natural Skincare line is the 100% herbal Anti-Aging Mask.

This mask and the entire Vivoderm line was developed over 40 years ago by the Vivoderm founder, holistic dermatologist, Dr. H. Adhami, and used on thousands of patients in his private practice. *

Dr. Adhami believes the best treatments will help revitalize and repair your skin, not chemically burn or peel it away.  The Vivoderm Anti-Aging Mask is 100% herbal and natural and does not contain any chemicals or preservatives. Instead of peeling away the top layer of damaged skin, the way a chemical acid or peel would, the anti-aging mask allows the skin to heal and regenerate naturally with the absorption of pure enzymes and vitamins. The most powerful anti-aging herbs found in nature; Marshmallow, Rosemary and Aloe Vera, reduce inflammation and soothe skin while Lavender and Mint purify and refine the appearance of pores.  Two powerful antioxidants, Vitamin E and Green Tea along with other therapeutic essentials, repair free-radical damage.

And unlike pure clay masks, this self-mixed facial mask uses actual pulverized herbs along with natural pro-active enzymes and vitamins to reduce age spots and discoloration, boost vitamin intake and provide nutrients and anti-oxidants to your skin. It can also be custom-blended to suit your changing skin needs. If you need more moisture or a pick-me-up, blend the herbal mask powder with plain yogurt. If your skin is oily, use water, toner or witch hazel to change the consistency and effect.

This mask was also designed to increase cellular turnover, skin circulation and perk up and invigorate dull, damaged skin. The medium-grain texture of the blended herbs creates a natural exfoliate to help remove top-layer dead skin cells and create a smoother skin touch and feel. Gentle exfoliation also minimizes pores and discolorations, purifies the skin and removes black heads. Natural yogurt enzymes act as a gentle skin lightener; minimizing sun, acne and pregnancy spots while protecting skin against future damage.

We believe after the very first use you will start noticing the difference in your skin to reveal a radiant, fresh and more youthful complexion. Full size kits, refills and sample kits are available at www.vivoderm.com

* After regular use, many patients reported a dramatic change in their skin. Finer lines, smoother skin, smaller pores and reduced discolorations were typical effects.

• Size – 3.2 oz.
• 100% natural and herbal and contains no preservatives or chemicals.
• FULL KIT comes with convenient porcelain mixing bowl and scoop.
• Actual dry pulverized herbs – not a clay mask.
• No animal testing. No parabens.
• Mix with equal amounts of water, toner or yogurt before use.

ANTI – AGING FACIAL MASK INGREDIENTS 
Ingredients: Avena Sativa (Oat Flour), Secale cereal (Rye Flour), Starch, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary), Althaea officinalis (Marshmallow), Anethum Graveolens (Dill), Lavendula Angustifolia (Lavender), Mentha arvensis (Mint), Origanum vulgare (Oregano), Yogurt Powder, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera), Cuminum (Cumin), Ocimum basilicum (Basil), Green Tea, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Riboflavin (Vitamin B2), Calcium Panthothenate (Vitamin B5), Pyridoxine-HCL (Vitamin B6), Biotin (Vitamin H).

Sun Protection and Photo Aging

“Photo-aging” is the term used to describe the damage that is done to the skin from prolonged exposure to the sun’s UV radiation The amount of photo aging that develops depends on different factors such as a person’s skin color and their history of long-term or intense sun exposure. Studies have shown that repeated ultraviolet (UV) exposure breaks down collagen and impairs the synthesis of new collagen. The sun also attacks our elastin causing the skin to become loose, wrinkled, and leathery.

young lady applying sunscreen at the beach

Ultraviolet radiation penetrates the layers of the skin. Both UVA and UVB rays cause damage leading to wrinkles, lower immunity against infection, aging skin disorders, and cancer. However, they appear to damage cells in different ways.

UVB rays are the main cause of sunburns, and primarily affects the outer skin layers. UVB is most intense at midday when sunlight is brightest. Slightly over 70% of the yearly UVB dose is received during the summer. Only 28% is received during the remainder of the year.

UVA rays penetrate more deeply and efficiently. The intensity of UVA rays is less dependent on the time of day and season of the year than UVB rays. For example, you receive only about half of your yearly UVA dose during the summer months, with the balance spread over the rest of the year.

Almost all dermatologists and doctors agree, sun protection products should be worn year round. It is important to apply sunscreen diligently during the summer months as it is most intense at this time. But just because you’re a mountain dweller, don’t think you can avoid the sun’s rays there either. UV rays are almost twice as harsh at higher altitudes.  Combined with the reflective snow surface, high altitude sun can damage skin at a surprisingly fast rate and cause just as much damage as sun burns on the beach.

Sunscreen Product Facts

• Broad spectrum only should be used.
• SPF is only related to UVB protection and does not provide a reference to the UVA protection in the product.
• All sunscreens will have UVB protection, which is reflected in the SPF.
• If skin sunburns in 10 minutes, a properly applied sunscreen SPF 15 means they will burn in 150 minutes
• Physical screens reflect light whereas chemical screens absorb UV converting the energy into heat
• SPF15 blocks 87.5% of UVB and SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB.

If you are looking for the best all around protection against UV rays, Zinc Oxide is your best choice. Zinc has a superior ability to protect your skin from UVA radiation. So, it is the natural, organic star of the skin care products available today. Zinc may leave a slight ‘white-cast’ on your skin, but considering the alternative chemical-laden, inflammatory or allergy-inducing options for sun protection today, zinc is an excellent choice for sensitive skin. Scientists are currently working on a “micro-fine” version of zinc to eliminate this effect without changing the power of the sunscreen itself.

Anti-Acne, Sun protection SPF 15

Always look for a sunscreen product that is dual-spectrum, meaning it blocks both UVA and UVB rays. UVA rays are the rays that cause wrinkles and skin aging, while UVB rays produce tans and burns. Applying sunscreen to not only the face but body is important. Sunscreen should be applied daily and even multiple times during the day depending on your outdoor activities. Sun protections no lower than SPF 30 should be applied to the face and body.

Many may also be unaware they can EAT for sun protection! Natural anti-oxidants from fresh berries, green tea, spirulina and many other foods act as natural barriers to the harmful effects of the sun.

The Sunscreen Product Debate – Potentially Harmful Ingredients of Sunscreens

You may be wondering, “How effective are sunscreens in protecting the skin against UVA and UVB rays from the sun? How harmful are their ingredients? Do sunscreens damage more than they protect?” Many have reported the very ingredients in sunscreens that offer sun protection, have also been found to have adverse side effects

While the debate between whether sunscreens are safe or not continues, chemical watchdog, the Environmental Working Group reported 84% of sunscreen products are harmful to consumers.

The bottom line is this. It is up to you as the informed consumer to research all skin care and sunscreen products you use, not only for efficacy but for safety as well. You only have one body, do your best to protect it and treat it well. Avoid prolonged exposure to the sun and take necessary precautions and measures to increase your natural sun protection factor and avoid future skin damage.

We all know that hydration is crucial and that drinking plenty of water optimizes the functions of the body. What some people forget is that the body needs not only to be hydrated from the inside but also from the outside. With the summer sun sapping moisture from your skin, it’s the perfect time to introduce ultra-moisturizing shea butter treatments into your skincare regimen.

Shea butter comes from nuts of karite trees, which are only found in the wild in the savannah regions of West and Central Africa. It is said Cleopatra used to smooth shea butter onto her body to counteract Egypt’s scorching climate. Centuries later, people around the world turn to this versatile skincare ingredient for all manner of applications from soothing scrapes to treating parched hair.

closeup of shea butter and shea nuts

Shea trees can live for 300 years, but they produce nuts only once annually. It takes about 15 to 30 years for karite trees to bear high-quality fruit that is later crushed and boiled to obtain a yellowish-colored fatty extract. According to the American Shea Butter Institute (ASBI), this product, which is rich in vitamins A, E, and F, is a superior moisturizer that contains remarkable healing properties for a variety of skin ailments, including eczema, psoriasis, and acne. It is also used to fortify and protect cell membranes, fade scars, minimize the appearance of stretch marks and wrinkles, improve hyperpigmentation, offer natural protection from harmful ultraviolet rays, and even relieve sinus problems. Shea butter is known as one of the most effective skin healers and moisturizers ever created. Originally used by African healers thousands of years ago, shea butter remains one of nature’s most potent skin rejuvenators and hydrators.

The ASBI recommends using the cold pressed shea butter that does not contain chemicals or preservatives. The ASBI classifies products as A, B, C or F. Class A is premium shea butter while class F is poor quality shea moisturizer. Pure shea butter is also edible and has long been used for cooking in many parts of Africa. Unrefined 100 percent shea butter is available at health food stores throughout the US.

This deeply nourishing product also has a low melting point, and it penetrates quickly when it comes in contact with the skin without leaving behind any greasy residue. Shea butter’s ease of use and myriad benefits have made it extremely popular and a darling on spa menus. Shea butter is high in oleic acid – a deeply moisturizing essential fatty acid that comprises the trademark thick texture. It’s also an ideal carrier for essential oil blends and mixes well with other oils such as fractionated coconut, jojoba and safflower.

While shea butter is effective on the body, it can also help people put their best faces forward and be a saving grace for those with troubled skin. Studies have shown it to be a natural anti-inflammatory agent. It decreases any acne flare-ups while naturally hydrating the skin, hence normalizing the sebum production to avoid future outbreaks – leaving the skin less oily.

Shea butter works well on all skin types, even sensitive skin. In addition, it boasts cinnamates and other compounds that may help inhibit enzymes that contribute to the inflammatory response.

The delicate and wrinkled eye area can benefit greatly from using shea butter to plump the skin around the eye area and help erase crow’s feet. Because the eye area does not have many oil glands, the skin around the eyes easily dehydrates without the ability to reproduce oil. The use of shea butter in eye cream provides a rich and healing source of hydration to penetrate the neglected eye area, keeping it supple and helping it retain moisture.

Also look for shea butter in your all over body creams and body butters. Shea butter and Coca Butter is used to help skin of all types heal and regain moisture levels and leave a silky finish. In addition to treating the delicate eye area, lips and lip lines can also be improved with shea butter. Not only does shea butter nourish the skin but it is also used to treat troubled tresses. Warm shea butter can be applied to the shaft of the hair to heal, protect, and penetrate every strand to make hair shinier, softer, and stronger. This treatment is perfect for people with dry, damaged, or over-processed hair as it promotes restructuring of the hair shaft. It’s beneficial to those who have been exposed to the sun and ocean, or extreme elements that are damaging and drying to the hair.

No matter what your outdoor preference is this summer –whether it is swimming, hiking or simply sunning – be sure to include versatile shea butter in your skin care treatment plans!

If you want to stay youthful and beautiful without the help of botox or surgery, then stick with the basics.  These include: staying out of the sun, eating a balanced diet, giving up alcohol and smoking and moderate exercise.  But, still you may find that your skin needs something extra that you are unable to provide. There are many different anti aging skin care products available to choose from and we know from experience, the options can get overwhelming. With so many trends coming out – acids, peels, peptides, collagen, serums, bio-cosmetics, lasers, micro-needling, etc.  What is popular this month is sometimes found to be harmful the next. 

Signs of aging are natural and inevitable. Unfortunately, if you do not take proper care today, your skin will appear much older by sheer neglect tomorrow.  If you were one of the few youths who lived in a cold climate or stayed indoors quite a bit, then you would now be blessed with fewer wrinkles and age spots. Many others weren’t so lucky.  Countless numbers of baby boomers and Gen-X’ers slathered on the baby oil as we baked in the sun day after day on those long carefree summers.

To combat past damage and prevent future damage, most skin care professionals suggest a basic daily skin regime.  This includes: cleansing, toning, moisturizing and protecting. Weekly exfoliation and facial masks are also suggested to keep skin at it’s most optimal.

1. Cleanse your skin every morning and before bedtime to reduce dirt and oil buildup. Always remove your makeup each night.
2. Tone:  Follow up your clean skin with a Ph balanced, acid-free toner to keep your skin it’s in optimal range – not too oily and not too dry.  Spritz or apply with a clean cotton pad.
3. Moisturize:  Always give your skin that extra bit of hydration to prevent fine lines and wrinkles. (Even oily skin needs a light moisturizer to prevent excess oil production).
4. Protect:  Apply an SPF or natural sunblock facial moisturizer every day you are planing to be outdoors or in the sun.
   Be sure to include your neck and chest area!

No magic potion will keep you looking young forever.  However, with the daily use of good anti aging skin treatment products you can slow down the process of aging and help keep your skin soft and supple.

That’s why Vivoderm believes in sticking with the basics when it comes to your skincare as well.  Simple, herbal and botanical products with ingredients you can pronounce and recognize are what we strive to create. 100% herbal facial masks made only of pulverized herbs, vitamins and natural acids, facial creams with healing, botanical ingredients and natural emollient oils.

Vivoderm Natural Skincare provides a great anti aging package at an affordable price which includes our Anti -Aging Facial Mask, Intense Moisturizer or Zinc Repairing Facial Cream, Green Tea Toner, Rosemary and Chamomile Cleanser, and our Anti Wrinkle Cream for the eyes. These products have been designed to repair and regenerate skin by renewing, healing and protecting your skin – bringing back lost vitality.  All Vivoderm skincare products are made from natural ingredients that promote skin health. The products are free from chemicals and preservatives and hence are safer for your skin than cheaper drugstore brands.

Try it out for yourself and see the difference!

For much of the country winter is in full swing. While we are bundled up, staying warm and wearing thick winter boots, the last thing we tend to think about is our feet. Taking care of your feet is just as important as your hands or face – since feet are the reason most people are able to perform their regular activities. Caring for your feet starts with wearing comfortable shoes. With proper footwear you will alleviate pain and help to avoid any kind of foot ailments like blisters or bunions. When wearing winter boots be sure to allow space for extra thick winter socks or tights. Once you have great fitting shoes you need to have a great foot care regimen as well. Since your precious tods are mostly covered up right now, you don’t need to worry much about expensive pedicures and designer polish – but it will help to give your feet some basic TLC. When spring finally does come around, your toes will be ready to shine.

An easy, weekly foot care regimen will be helpful for you to keep your feet smooth and soft. Use natural skin care products so that you can give your feet the best foot care possible. Remember, your skin absorbs 97% of the chemicals and ingredients it comes into contact with. Using natural ingredients and essential oils over chemicals will help maintain a healthy body too.

Begin your foot care regimen by soaking your feet in a tub of warm, soapy water. You can add creamy moisturizing soaps, sea salts, baking soda, and essential oils so that you can relax completely and moisturize your hard-working skin. Use a liquid soap which is made from natural elements. Then, use a loofah or a scrub brush over all foot surfaces to make your feet squeaky clean. Once there is no trace of dirt or bacteria, you can trim toenails with nail clippers and gently push back cuticles with a rubberized orange stick if needed. If you suffer from foot odor or excessive sweating, then use an anti-bacterial soap so that you can reduce bacteria and the smell that accompanies. Keep your toenails short so that there is no dirt accumulation. Essential oils like peppermint and rosemary are also excellent for reducing bacteria as they are mint-based, anti-microbial and create a nice refreshing tingling sensation. Soak and slough off dead skin for up to 20 minutes.

Once you have removed your feet from the bath, pat dry with a soft towel. For the last step, you need to moisturize so that you don’t have cracked or dry feet. The skin moisturizer should be applied to all areas of your feet and ankles so that it is absorbed by the feet skin completely. Among different natural moisturizing products opt for Vivoderm’s foot cream which is made of natural cocoa butter. It is very effective and leaves you with soft and smooth feet. The cocoa butter foot cream is a light and super-absorbent formula that also works well as a diabetic foot cream. Using the foot cream daily will help keep your feet baby smooth through the rest of winter. If you suffer from extremely cracked and dry feet then you can also add the Vivoderm intense moisturizer as a once a week treat. For extra absorption, apply moisturizer at bedtime then wear a clean pair of socks overnight as you sleep.

During the day, keeping your feet clean and dry as possible is essential for winter foot wear. Once your feet are back in boots, try to wear wool socks when possible to wick excess moisture away from your feet and keep your winter boots dry and fresh. For athlete’s foot, use a cornstarch or medicated foot powder daily.

With these simple steps, your feet will stay soft and fresh and ready for those summer sandals before you know it.

Herbology, which is also known as herbalism and herbal medicine, is the study and use of plants for medicinal purposes. Herbology and botanical studies can incorporate many different paths, including basic herbal pharmacology, physiology, nutrition, homeopathy, aromatherapy, and flower essences. Modern herbalists can use all or some of these options to heal a wide variety of traumas, diseases, and infections.

History

Most modern medical and pharmacological practices can trace their roots to ancient herbalism or traditional medicine in some form or another. In India, the practice of Ayurveda dates back thousands of years and emphasizes plant-based treatments, hygiene, and body-mind balance. Egyptian papyri dating back to 1550 B.C.E. have also been found to document medicine with a catalogue of useful plants and minerals. The Chinese and Greeks developed their own versions of herbal pharmacology around the first century C.E. with extensive herbal prescriptions and a new focus to treat the cause of diseases rather than the symptoms. In the Middle to Dark Ages, medical treatments became a strange combination of folklore, religion, and herbalistic practices that may or may not have been effective.

Modern Herbalisim

Modern invention and the scientific method took over many industrialized nations in the 18th and 19th centuries and quickly pushed aside traditional medicine and herbalist practices. Only those nations that did not develop economically stayed rooted in the old ways of healing. Herbalists were soon considered antiquated and their herbal treatments were passed over for chemical compounds and prescriptions. Yet, according to the World Health Organization, approximately 25 percent of modern drugs used in the United States have been derived from plants.

As a result of the rush to modernize society, many people in the new millennium are seeing destructive repercussions, including a prevalence of diseases and toxicity that did not exist before. The desire to return to how it was before has fueled a new interest in natural systems and the health benefits of organic living, sustainable farming, and herbalism.

Methods of Practice

Today’s certified or master herbalists will likely have been trained in one of the hundreds of professional schools or apprenticed under a licensed tutor or mentor. Most students focus on specific regional areas to become expert and their training should include in-depth botanical studies of native and non-native plants, diagnosis and treatment of conditions, and preparation and dispensation of herbal medications. Cultivating, harvesting, prepping, and storing are key factors to learning the best methods of preserving medicinal properties. Remedies can be prepared and administered as tinctures, salves, ointments, essential oils, teas, compresses, capsules, or tablets.

Herbal treatments can also be used alone or in combination with standardized scientific methods to supplement treatments, depending on the condition and diagnosis. While the debate about science versus nature continues, it is up to the individual to determine the method of treatment that is most beneficial for them.

by Rachelle Dupree, marketing and communications director for Vivoderm Natural Skincare
O c t o b e r 2 0 1 6 | D E R M A S C O P E

As the end of summer officially draws to a close, many of us will be putting away those warm weather sandals and tank tops and replacing them with cool weather gear that covers and protects our skin. But no mater what part of the country you live in – warm or cold, there are still plenty of reasons to keep using your moisturizers to help your skin stay hydrated and soft.

Vivoderm Natural Skincare prides itself on using the best natural ingredients it can source in all of it’s skincare products. One of those key moisturizing ingredients is Avocado oil. We use it in our Body Butter and Foot Cream as well as our Anti Wrinkle Treatment.

Avocado oil is an exclusive oil that has the capacity to enter the upper skin layers. It is valuable for its effects on wrinkled and dry skin and it is also a great oil for diaper rash. It contains high amounts of mono-saturated fatty acids and vitamins as wells as anti-oxidants and Omega 3’s. Avocado oil is extracted from the flesh of the fruit by the cold extraction method. Hence, the oil retains all the aroma and flavor, nutritional value, making it absolutely ideal for skin healing and hydration.

There are many skin care benefits that you can receive by including avocado oil in your daily regimen. If you have blemished or sun damaged skin, thanks to it’s high vitamin content avocado oil can help you to reduce and reverse blemishes. Vitamins A,E,D, B1, B2 and K are beneficial for all over skin and body health. Avocado oil contains high doses of Omega-3s, which are highly effective in protecting the skin from UV rays, therefore decreasing the chance of being sunburned, preventing the appearance of age spots and reducing the risk of skin cancer.

Scientific studies have recently shown how important collagen is for keeping your skin firm and youthful. Collagen is the main structural protein in various connective tissues in our bodies and skin. As we age, the collagen tissues flatten and stretch – causing wrinkles and sagging skin.

Avocado oil has been shown to help increase collagen production naturally. It aids in hydrating and plumping up skin cells and forms a natural cushion to reduce fine lines and wrinkles and other signs of aging.  It can be used, as a very effective and natural skin moisturizer. Avocado oil penetrates to the deep layers of the skin and stimulates collagen production therefore, improving the softness and elasticity of the skin and reducing it’s dryness. Avocado oil can be also beneficial for people with such skin conditions as psoriasis and eczema, relieving the itchiness of the skin.

So, if you want your skin to have more firmness and a smooth appearance, you will get excellent results with products that contain Avocado oil. Using avocado oil separately can be beneficial but when it is combined in a lotion or cream then its effects can be enhanced greatly to help treat dry skin and signs of aging.

Vivoderm makes a highly effective foot cream and Chamomile body butter which is ideal for treating dry, cracked feet and scaly skin. The thick and rich texture leaves your feet and body smooth and soft. Our Anti Wrinkle treatment with natural avocado oil, will reduced wrinkles and your increase collagen production.

So, if you are looking for a great skin moisturizer to help transition your feet, body and face from summer to fall and into winter – give Vivoderm a try!

Detail of garden lavender flowers

Lavender is a hardy, fragrant shrub that has narrow leaves and grey-blue flowers and can grow to a height of three feet. While the aroma of lavender can be found throughout the entire plant, essential oil can only be obtained from the flower. Originally grown in the mountains of Europe, in poor but well-drained soils, lavender is now grown worldwide. However, the primary aromatherapy producers are France, Bulgaria, Croatia, and Russia.

HISTORY

The word lavender often conjures wonderful images of purple colored fields in the south of France. Sometimes referred to as the Swiss army knife of herbs, lavender has been used throughout history. The Persians, Greeks, and Romans all used lavender to disinfect their sick rooms. The term lavender is derived from the Latin word ‘lavare,’which means to wash. With its many cleansing capabilities, lavender was the Romans’aromatic and medicinal choice for scenting their bathwater and making ointments to heal the body.

During the Great Plague, lavender was part of four thieves’ vinegar, a mixture that was said to be used with great success by grave robbers in order to avoid contracting the deadly disease. It also has a long history in the development of modern aromatherapy. Maurice Gattefosse’s observation of the dramatic healing effect of lavender oil when he burned his hand in a laboratory accident led him to research essential oils in greater depth. Dr. Jean Valnet used lavender oil to treat serious burns and war injuries when he was a French army surgeon. The medicinal use of lavender, especially in essential oils, continues today with good reason.

There are many different varieties of lavender, some of which are considered more important because of their specific properties. The most common plants are spike lavender (Lavandula spica), French lavender (Lavandula stoechas), and true lavender or English lavender (Lavandula officinalis or Lavandula angustifolia).

CHEMISTRY

To truly understand lavender, its chemistry needs to be explored, including linalyl acetate – an ester that is anti-inflammatory – and linalool, an alcohol that gives lavender its antiseptic properties. When buying lavender for clinical uses, true lavender 40/42 is required, with the numbers representing the required minimum percentage of these two particular pieces of chemistry. In comparison, Bulgarian lavender has a gentler aroma and has linalyl acetate and linalool in percentages of 38/40. It is important to know the country of origin of any of the essential oils being used in the spa because its location of growth, climate, harvesting techniques, and distillation temperature all determine its chemistry and, therefore, its properties.

For example, a dry and hot summer will create a higher percentage of esters than a damp summer would. Furthermore, Alpine lavender is always higher in esters than plants grown at lower altitudes. Alpine lavender also has a more camphorous smell, but it is more useful for treating respiratory conditions. The chemistry of this oil is also unique in a different way.

It not only has the ability to have its own action enhanced by other oils, but, in turn, it also heightens the action of the oils it is mixed with. In the process of custom blending oils for a client, lavender should be considered in most blends for its ability to bring a blend of oils together in their action and aromatic odor.

USING LAVENDER IN THE SPA

Of all the essential oils used in clinical aromatherapy, lavender is undoubtedly the most versatile, with a wide range of properties from analgesic to antiseptic. It is an essential oil that should be in every first aid kit in every spa. As a sedative, lavender is very effective;
when used as an inhalation at night, it will aid in sleep. A small amount of lavender oil can be massaged onto the throat to relieve a cough. The sedative action of the oil will calm the cough. Lavender will also relieve many forms of headaches if massaged onto the temples. For best results, combine it with peppermint and eucalyptus in a cold pressed oil and gently massage it onto the temples and the back of the neck.

Another popular use for lavender is in the relief of muscle and joint pain. Because it is considered an analgesic, it is best used in a massage treatment or in a bath and should be combined with other analgesic oils, such as rosemary, black pepper, clove, and peppermint. Muscle pain, menstrual pain, and arthritic pain can all benefit from the application of the oil, resulting in reduced inflammation and the calming of the central nervous system. As an antiseptic, it is also soothing and anti-inflammatory, thus making it very useful for many skin conditions. Its delicate aroma also lends itself to being blended in creams and lotions, usually in a dilution of one percent to two percent.

In the spa, lavender is very valuable in the treatment of acne. As an antiseptic and anti-inflammatory, it not only inhibits the bacteria causing the infection, but also calms the redness associated with acne. Furthermore, it can be blended with ylang ylang to help reduce sebaceous flow. Lavender can also help in many cases of eczema and blends well with chamomile and peppermint to calm the skin. When using lavender for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, be sure to use it in low dilutions of less than one percent.

One of the most important properties of lavender is its ability to restore unbalanced states, whether of mind or body, to a place in which healing can occur. With summer just around the corner, consider lavender for its insecticidal properties. When combined with oils such as lemon, citronella, eucalyptus, and tea tree, it makes a great mosquito repellant, as well as a lotion for the treatment of insect bites. Lavender can also be used to alleviate sunburns and sunstrokes when prepared in a light lotion, cold compress, or cold gel.

It has been used for centuries to protect clothes and linens from moths. When combined with oils such as myrrh, lemongrass, and tea tree, lavender can be used as fungicidal for the treatment of athlete’s foot and other fungal infections.

MIND AND SPIRIT

Lavender oil is useful for relieving stress. Stress that becomes counterproductive on a physiological level involves either the sympathetic or parasympathetic nervous system. Sympathetic hyperfunctioning is triggered more by physicalstress while parasympathetic hyperfunctioning is caused more by emotional stress. Lavender oil will inhibit both the sympathetic and parasympathetic nervous system functions. By selectively inhibiting either sympathetic or parasympathetic nervous excess, lavender can assist responses to unproductive stress of any kind.

Salvatore Battaglia quotes Peter Holmes as suggesting the use of lavender in acute crisis situations dominated by sudden, unpredictable, and spontaneous features. Holmes also states that lavender can promote personal renewal in every way by washing away past habits and opening clients up to new possibilities. (1) It helps by producing inner acceptance of a painful situation, easing fear, and creating the strength that allows people to move on.

Lavender has been the focus of many clinical trials and is being used in hospital wards as a massage oil, a vapor to help dispel anxiety, and an alternative to orthodox drugs to help patients sleep. Gabriel Mojay equates lavender with Virgo, the astrological sign. He speaks of the characteristics of Virgo to include oversensitivity and inhibition, using lavender to “calm the nervous anxiety that results in shyness and embarrassment.”(2)

Lavender should be used wisely because, while a small amount is calming, too much can be stimulating. Always remember that as popular as lavender is, it is not everyone’s favorite aromatic oil, but if it is blended well with other oils, clients will greatly benefit from its amazing, medicinal properties.

References
1 Battaglia, S. (2003). The Complete Guide to Aromatherapy. Brisbane: International Centre
of Holistic Aromatherapy.
2 Mojay, G. (1999). Aromatherapy for Healing the Spirit: Restoring Emotional and Mental Balance
with Essential Oils. Rochester, VT: Healing Arts Press.

Author Trish Green, director of sales and marketing for Eve Taylor North America, has been an educator for 40 years. She is an international speaker, educating aesthetician across the United States and Canada. As a CIDESCO aesthetician and a homeopath, she specializes in the wellness approach in her aesthetic practice, offering a unique approach to the treatment of clients in the spa.

Dermascope Magazine, July 2016