In recent weeks, (again) several popular acne treatment products have been voluntarily recalled due to concerns over benzene contamination, a known carcinogen. Thanks to this headline Report:

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) conducted tests on 95 acne products containing benzoyl peroxide and found elevated benzene levels in six of them, leading to these recalls.

The affected products include: La Roche-Posay Effaclar, A couple of Walgreens Acne Brands, and Proactiv, SLMD brands. (detailed lists can be found all over the internet this week).

This article takes a deeper dive into these reports and the FDA actual findings.

Due to the new media storm, Brands such as La Roche-Posay, Proactiv, and Walgreens have taken precautionary measures to remove specific products from retail shelves.

The FDA’s own site confirmed that most skincare products contain extremely low levels of benzene, well within safe limits—especially when used before the expiration date. This means that properly tested products from reputable brands are safe for daily use. They also concluded that some of these elevated levels may only be found in products that are near expiration dates.

WHAT IS BENZENE?
Benzene is a colorless or light-yellow, flammable, sweet-smelling liquid chemical compound often associated with industrial use, but lately it is getting more attention for being found in trace amounts in some skincare products.

It’s a hydrocarbon made up of six carbon atoms in a hexagonal ring, each bonded to a hydrogen atom. Benzene’s unique electron distribution gives it remarkable stability, making it less likely to react chemically. It’s used in the chemical and pharmaceutical industries as a solvent and starting material for many chemicals, including plastics, resins, rubber. It’s primarily a byproduct of certain chemical reactions and is sometimes used in product formulations as a solvent or preservative. However, it is NOT an intentional ingredient in quality skincare.

 FDA Findings on Benzene in Skincare

 Benzene Goes by Many Names!
While benzene itself is rarely listed on ingredient labels, it can sometimes appear under different names, including:
✔️ Benzol
✔️ Phenyl hydride
✔️ Coal tar naphtha

More Details on BENZENE: https://www.britannica.com/science/benzene

“Benzene is a colourless liquid with a characteristic odour and is primarily used in the production of polystyrene. It is highly toxic and is a known carcinogen; exposure to it may cause leukemia. As a result, there are strict controls on benzene emissions.”

Assuming most skincare product manufacturers and chemists understand the nature of Benzene, it stands to reason that they would NEVER knowingly formulate skincare products with this dangerous carcinogen.

 According to the CDC Chemical Fact-Sheet:

https://www.cdc.gov/chemical-emergencies/chemical-fact-sheets/benzene.html

Benzene is a colorless or light-yellow liquid at room temperature, characterized by a sweet odor and high flammability. It evaporates rapidly into the air, is heavier than air—allowing it to settle in low-lying areas—and exhibits limited solubility in water, tending to float on the surface.

Sources of Benzene Exposure

Benzene in Skincare Products?

Benzene occurs both naturally and through human activities. Natural sources include volcanic eruptions and forest fires. It is also a component of crude oil, gasoline, and cigarette smoke. Industrially, benzene ranks among the top 20 chemicals produced by volume in the United States, serving as a precursor in the manufacture of:

• Plastics
• Resins
• Nylon and synthetic fibers
• Detergents
• Drugs
• Dyes
• Lubricants
• Pesticides
• Rubbers

Common environmental sources of benzene exposure include tobacco smoke, gasoline stations, motor vehicle exhaust, and industrial emissions. Indoor air may contain higher benzene levels due to products like glues, paints, furniture wax, and detergents.

It stands to reason that one may sooner be affected by Benzene exposure if they smoke cigarettes or breathe in motor vehicle exhaust, than putting acne cream on their face.

Health Effects of Benzene

Benzene disrupts cellular function, particularly affecting bone marrow’s ability to produce red blood cells, leading to anemia. It can also compromise the immune system by altering antibody levels and reducing white blood cell counts. Acute inhalation of benzene may result in drowsiness, dizziness, rapid or irregular heartbeat, headaches, tremors, confusion, unconsciousness, and, at extremely high levels, death. Ingestion can cause vomiting, stomach irritation, dizziness, sleepiness, convulsions, rapid or irregular heartbeat, and potentially death. Direct contact with benzene can irritate the skin, eyes, and respiratory tract.

DON’T BELIEVE ALL THE HYPE AND DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH

Skincare creator, influencer and educated product researcher, Charlotte Parlermino is doing much to help DEBUNK rampant media attacks on products and identify fear-based messaging as it pertains to skincare products and what consumers should actually be worried about.

https://www.tiktok.com/@charlotteparler/video/7481300648756104478

“Let us be free from the NON SCANDAL of #benzene and #larocheposay , hope the social media team is ok.  Nothing bugs me more than getting mad about the right issues (carcinogens) but wasting time with these stories that don’t tell the whole story riling us up about NOTHING. Freak out about the dismantling of the EPA or something”

It’s important to note that these recalls are at the retail level, meaning products are being voluntarily removed from store shelves BY THEIR MANUFACTURERS and online marketplaces in light of the media scares and to prevent further issues.

The FDA has stated that even with daily use of these products for decades, the risk of developing cancer due to benzene exposure is very low. Consumers are advised to check for expired products and dispose of them accordingly.

Limited number of voluntary recalls initiated after FDA testing of acne products for benzene; findings show a small number of products with elevated levels of benzene contamination

https://www.fda.gov/drugs/drug-safety-and-availability/limited-number-voluntary-recalls-initiated-after-fda-testing-acne-products-benzene-findings-show

“… 95 acne products containing benzoyl peroxide for possible benzene contamination. FDA has concluded that a limited … products had undetectable or extremely low levels of benzene. FDA initiated independent testing following receipt … the agency that raised concerns about elevated levels of benzene in certain acne products containing benzoyl peroxide. …”

STAY AWARE AND STAY INFORMED

In light of these events, brands like Vivoderm Natural Skincare emphasize their commitment to 100% natural, toxin-free formulations. Vivoderm assures consumers that their products do not contain benzene, aligning with their dedication to providing safe and nourishing skincare solutions.

This situation underscores the importance of fact-checking and thorough research when selecting skincare products. Consumers are encouraged to:

• Review Ingredient Lists: Understand the components of products and their potential effects.
• Stay Informed: Keep abreast of product recalls and safety alerts issued by reputable organizations like the FDA or the CDC,  NOT just rely on media outlets and sensationalized reporting.
• Choose Transparent Brands: Always Opt for companies that prioritize transparency and consumer safety in their formulations.

By making informed choices, consumers can better protect their health and ensure the efficacy of the skincare products they use.

MEDIA HYPE SOURCES:

https://people.com/carcinogen-found-in-acne-products-prompting-recall-11697357

https://www.southernliving.com/l-oreal-la-roche-posay-effaclar-duo-acne-treatment-recall-11694889

https://www.cdc.gov/chemical-emergencies/chemical-fact-sheets/benzene.html

What ARE Peptides?

Peptides are short chain amino acids, which are the building blocks of proteins. In skincare, peptides are used to promote skin health and improve skin appearance. Natural peptides in skincare are derived from various sources, including plants, marine organisms, and natural fermentation processes. These peptides are bioactive molecules that help improve skin elasticity, repair, and hydration.

When looking for skincare products with natural peptides, check the ingredient list for terms like “hydrolyzed protein,” “peptide extract,” or the specific plant, marine, or dairy source used. Vivoderm’s herbal-based formulations, like our Herbal Facial Masks – include such natural wheat, fish and milk peptides as well as enzymes, to promote skin health while maintaining an all-natural approach.

We also include natural fish oils as peptides in our Intense Moisturizer and Eye Cream!

Benefits of Peptides in Skincare: 

Stimulate Collagen Production:

Peptides can signal the skin to produce more collagen, which is a protein that provides structure and elasticity. This can help reduce wrinkles, fine lines, and improve skin firmness.

Enhance Skin Elasticity:

Peptides can support the production of elastin, another protein that contributes to skin elasticity. This can help prevent sagging and improve skin tone.

Protect Skin from Damage:

Some peptides have antioxidant properties that can protect the skin from environmental stressors, such as UV radiation and pollution.

Promote Wound Healing:

Peptides can stimulate the skin’s natural healing process, which can help reduce inflammation and scarring.

Improve Skin Hydration:

Certain peptides can attract and retain moisture, leaving the skin feeling soft and supple.

Types of Peptides Used in Skincare:

Signal Peptides: These peptides send signals to the skin to produce specific proteins, such as collagen and elastin.

Carrier Peptides: These peptides carry nutrients and other beneficial ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin.

Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides: These peptides prevent the breakdown of collagen and elastin.

Here are some common sources of natural peptides: 

Plant-Based Peptides 

– Soy Peptides: Derived from soy proteins, they help promote collagen production and improve skin elasticity.

– Rice Peptides: Extracted from rice proteins, they are known for soothing and hydrating the skin.

– Wheat Peptides: Found in hydrolyzed wheat protein, these peptides support skin barrier repair and hydration.

Marine-Derived Peptides 

– Algae and Seaweed Extracts: Rich in bioactive peptides, these ingredients help enhance skin hydration and firmness.

– Fish Collagen Peptides: Hydrolyzed from fish collagen, they support skin regeneration and elasticity.

Natural Fermentation 

– Probiotic Peptides: Generated from the fermentation of natural bacteria like *Lactobacillus*, these peptides can strengthen the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.

Bee Products 

– Royal Jelly Peptides: Found in royal jelly, these peptides offer antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, helping rejuvenate the skin.

Milk and Dairy 

– Casein and Whey Peptides: Derived from milk proteins, they support skin hydration and elasticity.

When choosing skincare products with peptides, consider the specific types of peptides used and their potential benefits needed for your particular skin type.

Controversial Skincare Ingredients: Navigating Risks, Regulations, and Alternatives

Skincare products often promise radiant, healthy skin, but hidden in some formulations are controversial ingredients that could pose risks to your health. While some ingredients are approved for use under specific regulations, debates about their safety persist. This article explores controversial skincare ingredients, their regulatory status under FDA and EU guidelines, and safer alternatives.

1. Parabens

Parabens are synthetic preservatives commonly found in moisturizers, shampoos, and makeup. They prevent microbial growth but have been linked to hormone disruption due to their ability to mimic estrogen. Studies suggest potential connections to reproductive issues and breast cancer, raising concerns about long-term use.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA: Parabens are classified as “Generally Recognized as Safe” (GRAS) but remain under scrutiny. The FDA monitors new scientific data but has not banned their use.
• EU: The European Union has stricter regulations, banning several parabens (e.g., isopropylparaben) and limiting concentrations in products.

How to spot them: Look for ingredients ending in “-paraben,” such as methylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben.

2. Sulfates

Sulfates, such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), are foaming agents in cleansers and shampoos. They effectively remove dirt and oil but can strip the skin’s natural moisture, causing irritation and dryness.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA: Sulfates are approved for use but must be listed on product labels.
• EU: Sulfates are allowed but are subject to more stringent labeling requirements, particularly if they may cause irritation.

How to spot them: Look for “sodium lauryl sulfate” or “sodium laureth sulfate” on labels.

3. Phthalates

Phthalates are used to improve texture and extend the longevity of fragrances. However, they are known endocrine disruptors and have been linked to developmental and reproductive issues.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA: Phthalates are not banned but are closely monitored for safety.
• EU: The EU has banned several phthalates in cosmetics due to potential health risks.

How to spot them: Look for “phthalate,” “DEP,” “DBP,” or avoid products with unspecified “fragrance.”

4. Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde-Releasing Agents

Formaldehyde is a preservative with antimicrobial properties, but it’s a known carcinogen. Ingredients like DMDM hydantoin and quaternium-15 release formaldehyde over time.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA: The FDA limits formaldehyde use but has not banned it outright.
• EU: The EU prohibits the use of formaldehyde in cosmetics.

How to spot them: Look for “formaldehyde,” “DMDM hydantoin,” “quaternium-15,” “imidazolidinyl urea,” or “diazolidinyl urea.”

5. Synthetic Fragrances

Synthetic fragrances can contain hundreds of undisclosed chemicals, often leading to skin irritation and allergic reactions. Many also include phthalates, compounding health concerns.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA: Fragrance ingredients are not required to be disclosed due to trade secret protections.
• EU: The EU mandates disclosure of allergenic fragrance components.

How to spot them: Avoid products with “fragrance” or “parfum” listed.

6. Artificial Colors

Artificial colors, derived from petroleum or coal tar, can irritate skin and have been linked to potential carcinogenic effects.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA: Artificial colors must meet certification requirements for safety.
• EU: The EU restricts the use of certain artificial colors and requires transparency in labeling.

How to spot them: Look for FD&C or D&C followed by a color and number, such as “FD&C Red No. 40.”

7. Mineral Oil

A byproduct of petroleum, mineral oil is used as an occlusive agent. While it effectively locks in moisture, it can clog pores and impede skin breathing.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA: Approved for cosmetic use as long as it’s highly refined.
• EU: Permitted but regulated to ensure purity.

How to spot them: Look for “mineral oil,” “paraffinum liquidum,” or “petrolatum.”

8. Triclosan

Triclosan is an antimicrobial agent used in cleansers and toothpaste. It has been linked to hormone disruption and antibiotic resistance.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA: Triclosan is banned in over-the-counter hand soaps but allowed in some cosmetics.
• EU: Triclosan is banned in cosmetics.

How to spot them: Look for “triclosan” or “triclocarban.”

9. Silicones

Silicones create a smooth, silky texture in skincare products but can trap dirt and bacteria, potentially leading to breakouts.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA & EU: Silicones are generally considered safe for use in cosmetics but must be listed on labels.

How to spot them: Look for ingredients ending in “-cone,” “-siloxane,” or “-conol.”

10. Alcohols

Short-chain alcohols like ethanol and isopropyl alcohol help products dry quickly but can strip skin’s natural oils, causing irritation.

Regulatory Status:

• FDA & EU: Approved for cosmetic use but must be listed on ingredient labels.

How to spot them: Look for “isopropyl alcohol,” “ethanol,” or “denatured alcohol.”

Key Differences Between FDA and EU Regulations

• The EU follows a precautionary principle, banning over 1,300 substances in cosmetics. It emphasizes consumer safety and mandates rigorous testing.
• The FDA takes a reactive approach, banning or restricting only a small number of ingredients (around 11). The burden of proof lies with manufacturers unless evidence of harm is presented.

Tips for Choosing Safer Skincare Products

• Read labels carefully: Familiarize yourself with controversial ingredients and check regulations in your region.
• Choose EU-certified products: If safety is your priority, opt for products that meet EU standards.
• Opt for natural and organic products: These often contain fewer synthetic chemicals.
• Patch test new products: Check for adverse reactions before full application.

Understanding ingredient safety and regulatory differences can empower you to make informed choices for your skincare routine. Prioritize transparency and select brands that align with your safety standards.

A side NOTE on Natural Fragrance Oils and Coloring in Skincare

Natural fragrance oils and colors are derived from plant-based sources, offering a safer and often more skin-friendly alternative to synthetic ingredients. Essential oils like lavender, rose, and chamomile provide natural scents while also offering therapeutic benefits. For coloring, botanical extracts such as beetroot, spirulina, and turmeric impart beautiful, natural hues without the risk of irritation or harmful side effects. These ingredients are often less irritating and provide additional nutrients, making them ideal for sensitive skin or those seeking cleaner formulations. However, natural doesn’t always mean hypoallergenic, so patch testing is still recommended.

The Benefits of Using Marshmallow Root for Skincare

When you think of marshmallow, you might picture a sweet treat toasted over a campfire. But in the world of skincare, *Althaea officinalis*, commonly known as marshmallow root, is an herb that has been used for centuries to soothe, heal, and rejuvenate the skin. Marshmallow root is packed with benefits, making it a go-to ingredient in natural and herbal skincare routines. Here’s a closer look at why this powerful herb is a must-have for your skin.

You can find Marshmallow Root and Flowers used in the Vivoderm Herbal Facial Masks – both for Acne and Mature Skin! (Anti-Aging)

1. Deeply Hydrates and Moisturizes

One of the primary benefits of marshmallow root for skincare is its ability to provide deep hydration. The root is rich in mucilage, a gel-like substance that forms when it comes into contact with water. This mucilage creates a protective barrier on the skin, helping to lock in moisture and prevent dehydration. If you have dry or sensitive skin, using products with marshmallow root can help alleviate dryness, leaving your skin soft, smooth, and plump.

2. Soothes Irritated Skin

Marshmallow root has anti-inflammatory properties, making it an excellent remedy for soothing irritated skin. Whether you’re dealing with redness, rashes, eczema, or dermatitis, marshmallow root can calm irritation and reduce inflammation. Its natural ability to cool and soothe the skin makes it perfect for those with sensitive or reactive skin types. It can also be helpful for those with acne-prone skin by reducing the swelling and discomfort that often accompanies breakouts.

3. Heals Wounds and Reduces Scarring

   

   Marshmallow (Althaea officinalis) is a natural healing process.

The healing properties of marshmallow root are well-documented in herbal medicine. It’s been used traditionally to treat wounds, burns, and insect bites. Its high levels of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds accelerate the healing process, making it a great addition to skincare formulations aimed at repairing damaged skin. Additionally, it can help reduce the appearance of scars and improve overall skin texture by encouraging the regeneration of healthy skin cells.

4. Fights Signs of Aging

Another significant benefit of marshmallow root is its anti-aging properties. The antioxidants present in the root help fight off free radicals, which can cause premature aging. By neutralizing these harmful molecules, marshmallow root can help prevent fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots. Its ability to maintain skin hydration also plays a role in keeping the skin looking youthful and supple. As part of a regular skincare routine, marshmallow root can contribute to a more radiant and youthful complexion.

5. Balances the Skin’s pH

Maintaining the skin’s pH balance is crucial for preventing irritation, dryness, and breakouts. Marshmallow root has a natural pH that is very similar to the skin’s own, making it an ideal ingredient for maintaining this balance. When used in toners, creams, or serums, it can help restore the skin’s natural pH, leading to healthier, more resilient skin.

6. Protects the Skin Barrier

The outermost layer of your skin, known as the stratum corneum, acts as a barrier that protects your skin from environmental stressors like pollution, UV rays, and harsh weather. Over time, the skin barrier can become compromised, leading to dryness, sensitivity, and inflammation. Marshmallow root’s mucilage not only helps keep the skin hydrated but also reinforces the skin barrier, improving its resilience against these external factors.

7. Gentle on All Skin Types

One of the best aspects of marshmallow root is that it’s suitable for all skin types. Its gentle nature makes it particularly beneficial for sensitive skin, but its moisturizing and soothing properties can benefit anyone. Whether you have oily, dry, or combination skin, marshmallow root offers a range of benefits without causing irritation or clogging pores. It’s also hypoallergenic, meaning it’s unlikely to cause allergic reactions, making it safe even for the most sensitive of users.

8. Enhances Skin Elasticity

With consistent use, marshmallow root can improve skin elasticity. The antioxidants and polysaccharides found in the herb encourage collagen production, helping the skin maintain its firmness and elasticity. This is especially important as we age, as the natural decline in collagen production can lead to sagging skin and the formation of wrinkles.

How to Incorporate Marshmallow Root into Your Skincare Routine

There are several ways to reap the benefits of marshmallow root in your skincare routine. Look for creams, serums, and toners that contain marshmallow root extract as a key ingredient. You can find Marshmallow Root and Flowers used in the Vivoderm Herbal Facial Masks – both for Acne and Mature Skin! (Anti-Aging)

For those who prefer DIY skincare, marshmallow root can be made into a hydrating toner or mask by mixing powdered marshmallow root with water or aloe vera gel.

Marshmallow root is more than just a sweet-sounding herb – it’s a powerhouse ingredient that can transform your skin. From hydrating and soothing to anti-aging and healing, this natural remedy offers a wide array of benefits that cater to all skin types. Incorporating marshmallow root into your skincare routine can help you achieve soft, balanced, and radiant skin, all while nourishing your skin from the inside out. Whether you’re dealing with dryness, irritation, or signs of aging, marshmallow root is a gentle yet effective solution to many common skin concerns.

Dr. Adhami chose Willow Bark Extract as one of the very first (strongest) herbal ingredients in the Vivoderm Facial Toner.

Willow bark extract, derived from the bark of various willow trees, has been used for centuries for its medicinal properties. In recent years, it has gained popularity in the skincare industry due to its numerous benefits. Here’s a closer look at why willow bark extract is a valuable addition to your skincare routine.

1. Natural Exfoliation Willow bark extract contains salicin, a natural source of salicylic acid, which is known for its exfoliating properties. It helps to gently remove dead skin cells, promoting a smoother and more radiant complexion. This natural exfoliation process can help to unclog pores and prevent acne breakouts.

2. Anti-Inflammatory Properties
One of the standout benefits of willow bark extract is its anti-inflammatory properties. It can help to reduce redness and irritation, making it an excellent choice for those with sensitive or acne-prone skin. The anti-inflammatory effects can also soothe conditions like eczema and rosacea.

3. Antioxidant Benefits
Willow bark extract is rich in antioxidants, which help to protect the skin from environmental stressors such as pollution and UV radiation. These antioxidants can neutralize free radicals, preventing premature aging and promoting a youthful appearance.

4. Oil Control
For those with oily skin, willow bark extract can be particularly beneficial. It helps to regulate oil production, reducing the appearance of oily skin and minimizing the formation of blackheads and whiteheads. This makes it a great ingredient for maintaining a balanced complexion.

5. Anti-Aging Effects
The combination of exfoliating, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties makes willow bark extract a powerful anti-aging ingredient. It can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin texture, and promote a more youthful complexion.

6. Gentle on the Skin
Unlike some harsher chemical exfoliants, willow bark extract is gentle and suitable for most skin types, including sensitive skin. It provides effective exfoliation and anti-aging benefits without causing irritation or dryness.

How to Use Willow Bark Extract in Your Skincare Routine
Willow bark extract can be found in various skincare products, including cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers. To incorporate it into your routine:

Cleanser: Use a willow bark extract-infused cleanser to gently exfoliate and cleanse your skin.

Use the Vivoderm Facial Toner: with willow bark extract to balance your skin’s pH and prepare it for the next steps.

Serum: Use a serum containing willow bark extract to target specific skin concerns like acne or aging.

Moisturizer: Finish with a moisturizer that includes willow bark extract to lock in hydration and provide ongoing benefits.

As you can see, willow bark extract is a versatile and effective ingredient that offers numerous benefits for the skin. From gentle exfoliation and anti-inflammatory properties to antioxidant protection and oil control, it can help to improve the overall health and appearance of your skin. Whether you have sensitive, oily, or aging skin, incorporating willow bark extract into your skincare routine can lead to a clearer, smoother, and more radiant complexion.

FAQ

Should I wear sunscreen while using willow bark extract?

While sunscreen should be a regular part of your skincare routine, it’s especially important to use with any sort of exfoliating ingredient, including willow bark extract.

How often can I use willow bark extract in my skincare routine?

Unlike salicylic acid, willow bark extract is gentle enough to be used daily.

What skin types are best suited for willow bark extract?

Willow bark extract is a great ingredient to use for oily, acne-prone, and sensitive skin.

Learn more about the benefits of all our ingredients and great skincare tips by following us on Facebook and Instagram!

Aloe vera has been celebrated for its medicinal and cosmetic properties since ancient times. Dating back to Egyptian civilization, it was revered as the “plant of immortality” and used in embalming rituals and beauty treatments by queens like Cleopatra. She regarded aloe vera plant as her beauty secret. Legend states that the Pharaoh kept the Aloe as a palace plant, assigning it a very high status. Drawings of the aloe plant have been found inscribed in the tombs of the pharaohs.

In ancient Greece and Rome, aloe vera was employed for its healing abilities, treating wounds, burns, and various skin ailments. Traditional Chinese and Indian Ayurvedic medicine also recognized aloe vera for its cooling and anti-inflammatory effects, utilizing it to soothe skin irritations and support digestive health.

Dr. Adhami understood Aloe vera to be one of the great skin healers, and a natural remedy for enhancing health and beauty across diverse cultures. He integrated aloe vera into many of the Vivoderm products, capitalizing on its moisturizing, soothing, anti-aging, and healing properties.

Aloe Vera as a Base Ingredient
Vivoderm uses aloe vera as a primary ingredient in many of its skincare formulations. Aloe vera’s natural hydrating and soothing properties make it an ideal base for our moisturizers and masks, ensuring that each product delivers maximum hydration and healing to the skin. Aloe’s ability to penetrate the water-retaining layer of skin allows the enzymes within the gel to slough off dead cells, which aids in restoring the complexion. Aloe nourishes the skin, increasing the formation of collagen and elastin, and stimulating the regeneration of damaged tissue.

Hydrating Moisturizers
Vivoderm’s Intense Moisturizer features aloe vera to provide deep hydration for up to 12 hours. This moisturizer is perfect for those with extremely dry, chapped or rough skin – keeping the skin soft, supple, and well-nourished throughout the day. Dr. A has also infused our decadent Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream with a base of Aloe vera and Beta Carotene for soothing wrinkle reduction without irritation.

Soothing and Healing Creams
For those with sensitive or irritated skin, our Anti-Aging Daily Moisturizer is a lighter, water-based cream enriched with aloe vera to help to calm redness, reduce inflammation, and promote faster healing of minor skin irritations, such as sunburn, rashes, or insect bites.

The anti-aging benefits of aloe vera are also numerous! The vitamins and antioxidants in aloe vera help to boost collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. These formulas aim to give users a more youthful and radiant complexion.

Acne Treatment Solutions
Aloe vera’s antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties make it a key ingredient in our Anti-Acne Herbal Mask. It’s great to help fight acne-causing bacteria, soothe inflamed skin, and prevent future breakouts, all while being gentle and non-irritating. Salicylic acid is a well-documented acne treatment, and is naturally occurring in aloe vera. Using aloe to treat acne is also an excellent choice for people with sensitive skin.

Brightening and Even-Tone 
Aloe vera helps to brighten even skin tone and reduce the appearance of dark spots and blemishes, giving the skin a more uniform and glowing appearance.

Cleansing and Toning
The Vivoderm rosemary and chamomile cleanser and green tea facial toner includes aloe vera to provide a gentle yet effective cleanse. Using Aloe vera in the formula, helps to remove impurities and excess oil from the skin while maintaining its natural moisture balance, leaving the skin clean and hydrated.

Herbal Facial Masks
Vivoderm’s 100% herbal masks also feature dehydrated aloe vera extract to provide a soothing and hydrating experience. As the herbal masks can be custom-blended, one of Dr. Adhami’s recommendations is to use Aloe vera gel to mix the mask powder to apply to skin as a paste.  Aloe vera gel can super-boost the mask healing properties with acne-fighting salicylic acid and help reduce the signs of aging by naturally boosting collagen – leaving the skin revitalized and rejuvenated.

You can see just how multi-functional in miraculous Aloe Vera is!

Aloe Vera Plant

Benefits of Aloe Vera for Skin Care Bullet Points:

• Moisturizing: Hydrates skin without making it greasy, suitable for all skin types.
• Soothing and Healing: Calms irritated or sunburned skin, reduces inflammation.
• Anti-Aging: Improves skin elasticity, promotes collagen production, reduces fine lines and wrinkles.
• Acne Treatment: Antimicrobial properties help treat acne, reduce redness and swelling, prevent acne scars.
• Skin Brightening: Lightens blemishes and dark spots, evens skin tone, enhances natural glow.
• Wound Healing: Speeds up the healing process for minor cuts, burns, and abrasions.
• Rich in Nutrients: Contains vitamins (A, C, E, B12), minerals (calcium, magnesium, zinc), and antioxidants.
• Non-irritating: Safe for sensitive skin, relieves conditions like eczema and psoriasis.
• Anti-inflammatory: Soothes skin conditions, reduces itchiness and irritation.

How to Use the Aloe Vera Plant for Skin Care

As well as being an attractive plant for your home or garden, Aloe Vera is a powerful medicinal herb to have on hand for DIY skincare, mild sunburns and cuts or scraps, etc.

To use aloe plant leaves, cut off a small leaf of the aloe vera plant about as long as your index finger. Make a slice length-wise down the leaf to expose the aloe and apply to the skin. If you are using the aloe for a wound you can cover the wound with gauze and tape. NOTE: There are two schools of thought out there currently that using the leaf directly on the skin can be more irritating or harmful than extracting the gel and using a dilution. Always do a patch test first.

How To Harvest Aloe Vera Gel
Harvesting aloe vera gel is a pretty easy task. You’ll want to take aloe from a well-established plant that is at least a few years old. Choose large thick leaves that are growing at the base of the plant.

Cutting Tips:
When cutting a leaf from the aloe vera plant pick one that is closer to the base of the plant. This will help with the yield of the plant and the aloe is much better from the mature part of the plant. You’ll get the most bang for your nutrient buck if you take your cuttings as close to the central stalk as possible.

Cut your leaves using a clean knife or scissors.
Tearing the leaves off can damage the plant, and using a dirty pair of scissors or knife can contaminate and infect your lovely aloe. This little precaution will leave you with a healthy aloe plant to harvest from for years to come. A small paring knife, or even better, a filet knife works well to remove the skin from your aloe. You’ll want your knife to be good and sharp for a clean cut. After you have cut your leaves, you’ll need to put them in a jar or glass, cut side down to drain.

CAUTION! Aloe contains a yellow-ish latex substance called aloin, which can cause severe gastric distress if you ingest it. Let the aloe drain for about 10-15 minutes and then rinse your leaves off with cold water and pat dry.

If you are planning on using the aloe on your skin, you can squeeze it out of the leaf and apply it directly. To get at the aloe vera gel, you’ll want to cut the skin away.

You’ll notice one side of the leaf is more rounded, and the other side is flatter. Put the flat side down and use your knife to trim away the spines, keeping as close to the edge as possible. You don’t want to lose any of that aloe-y goodness!

Flip your leaf over and trim the flat outer skin from your stalk, again keeping your cut as close to the skin as possible. It’s just like filleting a piece of chicken or fish.

Now you can trim the skin away from the other side. Be careful as it gets a little trickier to do at this point. The aloe vera gel is very slippery. You will have a pretty substantial chunk of aloe gel. You’ll need to rinse it again to remove any remaining aloin.

You must use aloe vera right away… do not cut a leaf off until you need it!

If you want to save a piece simply wrap it in plastic wrap and put it in the refrigerator; it will keep for a few days. You can also freeze the gel into ice cube trays for single-use applications like sunburns or insect bites. (For serious burns and wounds always seek professional help first).

And that’s it! There are so many wonderful and diverse ways to use Aloe vera! We hope you try them all.

By incorporating aloe vera, Vivoderm ensures that our skincare treatments not only treat specific skin concerns but also promote overall skin health and beauty, provide natural hydration, anti-aging solutions, acne treatment and offer a natural and effective approach to achieving radiant and healthy skin.

The Best (& Worst) Ingredients for Rosacea Skin – Complete Guide

One of the key factors for healthy skin is the skin barrier, aka the stratum corneum. This barrier acts as a protective shield by blocking out unwanted substances and preventing moisture loss. However, in rosacea skin, this barrier can be severely compromised.

This is where knowing your skin care ingredients can make a huge difference.

In this article, we’re going to look at the best ingredients for rosacea and how they support not the skin barrier, but the overall health of your skin. In addition, we will briefly dive into ingredients that are generally best to avoid if you have rosacea.

TOP 15 INGREDIENTS FOR ROSACEA SKIN

1. Zinc Oxide

Zinc has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that have been shown to help rosacea when used internally and topically.

When it comes to internal use, one study showed that taking 100 mg of zinc sulfate supplements helped to alleviate rosacea symptoms. In addition, the supplements didn’t produce any major side effects, except for mild gastrointestinal upset in 3 of the 25 study participants.

As for topical use, zinc oxide is a good choice for sunscreen because it’s a physical sunscreen, as opposed to a chemical sunscreen which is absorbed into the skin and can cause irritation.

In addition, zinc oxide has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties that can soothe redness, reduce the size of pores and regulate oil production.

2. Green Tea
Green tea is best known for being antioxidant-rich and anti-inflammatory. A lot of this is due to EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate), which is the most abundant – and most studied – antioxidant in green tea.

In fact, research has shown that a cream containing EGCG reduced the number of lesions in people with papulopustular rosacea.

It’s also worth noting that green tea, comes in two forms: standard green tea and matcha (green tea leaves that have been ground into a powder).

Matcha can have up to 3 times more antioxidants. So, whether you’re making your own DIY products or purchasing one, look out for matcha.

3. Hyaluronic Acid, Glycerin and Other Humectants

Humectants are an essential part of a rosacea skin care routine because they attract water and subsequently, increase the skin’s moisture levels.  Some of the main humectants to consider adding to your skin care routine include:  glycerin, aloe vera, hyaluronic acid, honey, seaweed, oats,

4. Vitamin C

Vitamin C has proven to be an effective topical therapy for rosacea because of its anti-inflammatory effect and ability to protect against free radical damage. But note that the research done on vitamin C and rosacea used ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C). While ascorbic acid is definitely very effective, it can be too harsh for some people.

So, what’s a better alternative? Use a vitamin C derivative. These are gentler on the skin, more stable and they tend to penetrate the skin better. Some examples of these derivatives include:

L-Ascorbic Acid (L-AA).
Ascorbyl Glucoside.
Methylated L-Ascorbic Acid.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP).

5. Carrier Oils
Because they’re particularly rich essential fatty acids and antioxidants, carrier oils are a great way to nourish your skin and support delicate rosacea-prone skin.

Furthermore, oils that are rich in the fatty acid, linoleic acid, can be particularly beneficial for rosacea. This is because linoleic acid is an essential component of the skin barrier and has powerful anti-inflammatory properties.

Some of the best plant-based oils to include for rosacea skin care routine are:

Rosehip oil: Rich in linoleic acid, vitamin A (in the form of beta-carotene) and antioxidants like vitamin E, anthocyanin and polyphenols. Brightens the skin, improves elasticity, and reduces inflammation.
Grapeseed oil: Rich in linoleic acid. Has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. Packed with antioxidants like tocopherol (vitamin E), resveratrol (which we’ll be discussing later) and quercetin.
Sea buckthorn oil: High in omega 3, 6, and 9 fatty acids. Also a rare plant-based source of palmitoleic acid, an omega 7 fatty acid that has powerful anti-inflammatory and wound healing properties (source).
Jojoba oil: Suitable for oily or acne-prone skin since its composition is so similar to our natural skin sebum. Also has antibacterial, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties.

6. Azelaic Acid
This natural compound is commonly found in grains like wheat, barley and rye. When used on the skin, azelaic acid exhibits anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects that are helpful for rosacea or acne-prone skin. More specifically, research shows azelaic acid reduces redness and the number of inflammatory lesions.

It’s worth noting that the research on azelaic acid used a 15% azelaic acid gel and focused on mild to moderate papulopustular rosacea.

7. Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA)
Unlike alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) provide a gentler form of chemical exfoliation that can be helpful for some rosacea patients.

In particular, BHAs like salicylic acid can improve your skin if you tend to get acne or oily skin.

That said, BHAs can be too strong for some people. As is always the case with rosacea, listen to your skin.

NOTE: a gentler alternative to BHAs is goat milk. Although it is an alpha hydroxy acid – which is usually a no-no for rosacea – there is anecdotal evidence that goat milk can actually be very soothing to sensitive skin.

8. Oats
(Colloidal oats) Oats have traditionally been used to soothe inflamed and irritated skin. The main reason why oats are so helpful for sensitive skin is because they have humectant properties that pull moisture to the skin and increase ceramide levels. These ceramides are fatty compounds that soften the skin and also help lower inflammation. When using oats for rosacea, you can use them in the form of colloidal oats or oat oil.

Colloidal oats are simply oats that have been ground into a fine powder (not to be confused with oat flour). They’re great for DIY face masks!

As for oat oil, it’s packed with antioxidants and fatty acids. Research shows that it repairs the skin barrier, even though it has only a moderate amount of linoleic acid (36 – 46%).

9. Resveratrol
Resveratrol is used internally and topically, because of its protective antioxidant properties and its connection to increasing collagen III.

This specific type of collagen is often damaged by excessively dilated blood vessels. This means those with rosacea can already have compromised collagen III levels.

When you increase type III you encourage fibroblast function. This is significant for the skin because fibroblasts are the cells that produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.

Lastly, one particular study showed that topical use of a product containing resveratrol, green tea and caffeine reduces redness.

While it’s not clear exactly how much resveratrol alone reduces redness, the results of this study are promising for anyone with inflamed skin.

10. Rose water (or pure hydrosol)
Rose water is a by-product of the production of rose essential oil. It contains very little essential oils (about 0.05%) which means it’s less likely to irritate the skin.

Overall rosewater helps to:

soothe redness and inflammation.
hydrate the skin.
balance pH.
reduce oiliness.
fight off free radicals (thanks to its antioxidant content.
For rosacea, combining rosewater and glycerin can be particularly soothing and hydrating.

11. Aloe Vera
Aloe vera gel is an incredibly hydrating humectant that also packs in lots of nutrients, including:

• minerals like zinc, selenium and manganese
• vitamins C and E
• B-vitamins
• antioxidants like beta-carotene

In addition, aloe stimulates fibroblasts (those cells that produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid). It’s no wonder, that this natural ingredient is used for dryness, itching, inflammation and anti-aging!

But that’s not all. Consuming aloe juice is often used in some detoxes. It may help to lower inflammation and promote the elimination of toxins that are contributing to skin issues.

12. Niacinamide
Niacinamide is one of the B vitamins – specifically, one of the two forms of vitamin B3 – that stimulates collagen production, improves cell turnover, and helps smooth the surface of the skin.

In fact, because of its potency, niacinamide is used as an alternative to topical antibiotics that are prescribed for rosacea.

13. Ceramides
Ceramides are found naturally in the outermost layer of the skin. They help regulate moisture loss, protect the skin barrier and prevent the development of skin conditions.

According to various publications, these ceramides are found at lower levels in rosacea-prone skin. This makes the external application of ceramides to your skin crucial.

If this isn’t enough evidence for their relevance with rosacea, a survey of dermatologists unanimously concluded ceramides contribute to successful rosacea therapy.

14. Sulfur
While the use of sulfur for skin conditions goes as far as back ancient Egypt, the first effective (and documented) use of sulfur for rosacea dates back to 1855. These days it’s available commercially in a variety of over-the-counter products and has been shown to reduce inflammatory lesions and perilesional erythema. It is best used for acne-rosacea. Modern sulphur containing formulations for rosacea incorporate 10% sodium sulfacetamide combined with 5% sulphur. The new foam formulations are easier to apply and exude fewer odors. Antiseptic, antibacterial, and antifungal properties have been attributed to sulphur.

Despite these positive outcomes, sulfur can cause unwanted side effects such as dryness, itchiness, irritation or temporary redness. (Use with caution).

15. Herbs
Herbs offer bioactive compounds that can benefit rosacea skin in various ways. For example, research shows that licorice root can improve redness and redness when applied twice a day over the course of four weeks (source).

Similarly, feverfew has been identified in clinical studies as an herbal remedy for rosacea. This herb offers UV protection (helping to shield the skin from potentially aggravating UV rays) and has antioxidant properties (source).

INGREDIENTS TO AVOID FOR ROSACEA
In general, it’s best to avoid these ingredients if you have rosacea (1, 2, 3):

Artificial fragrance.
Sodium lauryl sulfate.
Menthol.
Drying alcohols.
Camphor.
Tretinoin.
Urea.
Essential oils like eucalyptus and peppermint.
Benzoyl peroxide.
Hydroquinone.
Physical scrubs (such as sugar scrubs).
Astringents.
Lastly, witch hazel is another ingredient that can be troublesome for rosacea. However, it’s worth noting that witch hazel extracts can be extracted either in alcohol or water.

Unfortunately, many skin care companies use the alcohol-extracted form. So, a lot of the irritation that people experience with witch hazel, often comes from the leftover alcohol.

Witch hazel itself is a soothing herb. So, if you’d like to try witch hazel, find one that is extracted in water (and check with your dermatologist before adding it to your routine).

FAQs ABOUT ROSACEA INGREDIENTS
Is retinol good for rosacea?
In certain cases, retinol can help rosacea. But retinol is a potent ingredient and it could cause dryness, plus other forms of irritation.

So, if you decide to add retinol to your rosacea routine, make sure to use it sparingly, especially at the beginning. Also, seek guidance from your dermatologist in terms of what strength of retinol to use and how often.

Is vitamin E good for rosacea?
Vitamin E has various healing properties that could help rosacea. When used topically it reduces dryness and combats oxidative damage. According to anecdotal reports, vitamin E oil may also improve dryness, reduce acne flare ups and lower redness.

Is olive leaf extract good for rosacea?
While there isn’t research specifically on olive leaf and rosacea, olive contains compounds like oleuropein, which has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. One study showed that olive leaf extract has skin-rejuvenating abilities (source). This might benefit rosacea-prone skin.

In addition, olive leaf supports the immune system and is used as a supplement for candida overgrowth. Some people link rosacea to candida. So, depending on the underlying cause of your rosacea, olive leaf may help.

Is collagen cream good for rosacea?
The evidence indicates collagen cream can have a positive influence on rosacea. Research has shown a strong correlation between collagen and microvessels: when collagen levels decrease, microvessel density and size increase. This can worsen skin that’s already prone to abnormal vascular functioning.

Topically applying collagen could help counteract this tendency, thus improving the skin’s underlying structure and strength.

Is vaseline good for rosacea?
As an occlusive, vaseline prevents water loss. For rosacea, it can be applied onto damp skin to lock in moisture.

CONCLUSION
While there’s no perfect ingredient or remedy for rosacea, there are many scientifically-backed ingredients that can help and many different types of ingredients that you can add to your skin care routine. You can find MANY of these ingredients in the Vivoderm products, including the Zinc Repairing Facial Cream and the Herbal Facial Acne Mask and Anti-Aging Masks.

This article is published in DERMASCOPE Magazine, June 2023 edition – written by Rachelle Dupree

https://www.dermascope.com/freedigital/June2023/?page=87

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are mild acids and gentle chemical exfoliants com­monly used in skin care treatments to improve the appearance and health of skin. First used in skin care in the 1970s, beta hydroxy acids are a type of hydroxy acid, or organic compounds containing a hydroxyl (OH) group.

AHAs vs BHAs

In the world of skin care products, the most common acid-based ingredients are beta hydroxy acids and alpha hy­droxy acids. Both are typically naturally derived from plant materials, although some are synthesized. While they both perform similar functions, the difference is the chemical com­pound structure between the two. While alpha hydroxy acids are separated from the hydroxy part of the molecule by one carbon atom, beta hydroxy acids are separated by two carbon atoms. This distinction means that common beta hydroxy ac­ids are oil-soluble and have a greater ability to penetrate the lipid layers between skin cells, while alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble and cannot penetrate skin at a deeper layer. This makes beta hydroxy acids the superior choice ingredient for treating acne.

SKIN CARE

Commonly derived from natural sources such as plants, tree bark, fruit, some dairy products, as well as synthetic sources, beta hydroxy acids have a number of beneficial prop­erties that make them useful for oily and acne-prone skin. Beta hydroxy acids’ oil-soluble structure also means they can break down dirt and other debris from skin to remove impuri­ties. This makes them effective at treating a variety of skin conditions including blackheads and whiteheads.

They also assist with basal cell layer stimulation and remove surface cells, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in addition to hyperpigmentation Beta hydroxy acids are also anti-inflammatory, meaning they can help reduce the redness and inflammation associated with acne and other skin conditions.

Salicylic Acid

One of the most common types of beta hydroxy acids is salicylic acid (a derivative of salicin), a natural ingredient de­rived from plants such as willow bark and oil of wintergreen. As a keratolytic medication, it is one of the most popular in­gredients in acne treatments and works by dissolving some of the deeper pore-clogging bonds between skin cells. This effect also produces easy exfoliation by softening or slough­ing off the top layer of skin.

It is generally considered safe for most skin types when used as directed. But be aware of contraindications for dry, sensitive skin or hyperreactive skin. It is also advised to re­frain from using products containing salicylic acid as an all­over body treatment – for instance, on large patches of acne­prone skin, like the back area – as this could contribute to salicylate poisoning.

PUT IT INTO PRACTICE

Beta hydroxy acids are a versatile and effective ingredi­ent that can be found in a variety of skin care products, in­cluding facial cleansers, facial serums, exfoliants, masks, and moisturizers. Most drugstores, beauty stores, online skin care shops, and even some grocery stores carry a variety of prod­ucts containing beta hydroxy acid ingredients. Depending on the skin care professional’s needs, private-label options are available in addition to professional skin care lines.

Products are typically applied to skin once or twice daily and may be combined with other active ingredients to en­hance their effect. It is important to only use complementary products in conjunction with beta hydroxy acids in the correct sequence to avoid negative interactions. When choosing beta hydroxy acid-based products, it is most important to choose the product with the right concentration for the client’s skin type and always follow any special instructions.

The Right Products

Cleansers: One of the easiest ways to incorporate beta hydroxy acids into a skin care routine is through a facial cleanser. When choosing a beta hydroxy acid-based facial cleanser, look for a product with a concentration of 0.5% to 2% beta hydroxy acids. Higher concentrations can be too harsh for some skin types while lower concentrations may not be effective. To help maintain healthy skin, these cleans­ers should only be used once or twice a week to improve skin tone and texture.

Serums: Beta hydroxy acids are most commonly incor­porated through facial serums, which are typically applied after cleansing and toning. When choosing a beta hydroxy acid-based serum, look for a product with a concentration of 1% to 2%.

Masks: Beta hydroxy acids in facial masks are typically used once or twice a week to deeply cleanse and exfoliate skin. Look for mask products with a concentration of 2% to 5% beta hydroxy acids.

FINAL CONSIDERATIONS

It is important to note that beta hydroxy acids can be harsh for some skin types and can cause dryness, redness, and irritation. If a client has sensitive skin, it is best to use beta hydroxy acid-based products sparingly and to patch test before using them on a larger area of the face. Additionally, professionals should recommend the use of a good quality sunscreen alongside.

Overall, beta hydroxy acids are a popular and effective skin care ingredient that can provide a variety of benefits for many skin issues. By incorporating beta hydroxy ac­ids into spa treatments, professionals can help their clients improve the appearance of their skin and reduce the risk of breakouts.

Vivoderm Herbal Facial Mask

NOTE:

References

1. Arif, T (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent A comprehensive review. C inical, Cosmetic and lnvestigational Dermatology, 455-461. https://doi.org/10.2147 /ccid.s84765
2. Gancev1ciene, R, Uakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A, Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012) Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319. https://doi.org/10.4161/ derm.22804
3 Encycloped1a.com. (2020, August 12). Beta Hydroxy. Encycloped1a.com. Retrieved April 20, 2023, from https:/www.encyclopedia.com/medicine/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts· and-maps/beta-hydroxy

* Rachelle Dupree has over 20 years of experi­ence in marketing, media, communications, and design. She studied with a Denver-based herbal­ist and naturopath for four years, combining her marketing knowledge with her love of natural remedies and skin care. She currently works as a marketing and communications director for Vivoderm Natural Skincare and various design clients.

In recent years, a new player in the antiaging game has come onto the field and is growing in popularity–bakuchiol. Bakuchiol is a natural chemical compound extracted from the seeds of the bakuchi plant (psoralea corylifolia) and has been used in Ayurveda and traditional Chinese medicine for centuries.  Bakuchiol and other more natural alternatives like Rambhutan or Rosehip Seed Oil are promising to be just as effective as retinols for reducing the appearance of aging skin.

When it comes to skincare, retinoids are king. There are no other active ingredients—natural or synthetic—quite like them. Retinoids are a family of compounds derived from vitamin A, and the most commonly used one over the counter is retinol. The powerhouse ingredient has the ability to stimulate collagen and promote cell turnover, which can improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots, and acne. The miracle of it all, however, comes at a cost—red, dry, and flaky skin.

Bakuchiol, was first introduced for commercial use in topical applications around 2007 and recent research proves it to be a gentler alternative to the harsh vitamin A-derived retinols. Retinols have been around since the late 1940s and can be found in numerous over-the-counter skin care products. The most concentrated version (also known as Retin-A or tretinoin) is available by prescription only.

Retinols have historically been prescribed by dermatologists to treat inflammatory acne, scarring, hyperpigmentation, and wrinkles. It works primarily by sloughing off the top layer of skin, speeding up cellular turnover rates, rapidly exfoliating the skin, and decreasing the build-up of dead cells within the follicle.

Retinol can also be irritating to the skin, causing major side effects like irritation, peeling, redness, dryness, sun sensitivity, and can be difficult for those with sensitive skin to use.

Bakuchiol, as an alternative, provides a more natural and effective solution to traditional retinols. Bakuchiol was shown to possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties just like retinoids and was also found to be more stable than retinol. This makes it a great natural alternative to retinol, especially for those with sensitive skin conditions such as eczema or psoriasis.

Since 2013, numerous dermatological studies have been conducted comparing bakuchiol’s ability to mimic benefits of retinol and repeatedly found equivalent results to retinol performance. This has helped fuel a popularity boom for the new compound. In 2018, the “British Journal of Dermatology” published a randomized, double-blind, 12-week clinical study with 44 volunteers, which found bakuchiol to be comparable with retinol in its ability to improve photo-aging (wrinkles and hyperpigmentation) but with fewer negative skin reactions.

Another bonus to using bakuchiol over retinoids is the ability to incorporate it into one’s skincare routine at any time of day. Traditional retinoids can cause the skin to become photosensitive and prone to sun damage, so they are typically recommended only for use as a nighttime treatment. A variety of products can now be found on the market containing bakuchiol in varying levels of concentrations. For those who want the benefits of both retinol and bakuchiol, there are a few combination treatments available as well.  Now, the ingredient has popped up in eye creams, moisturizers, and face oils, so there’s no wrong way to incorporate it into your routine.

Written by Rachelle Dupree – amended for this post

Original article Published in Fact or Fiction, Dermascope Magazine Online: April, 2021. https://www.dermascope.com/fact-or-fiction/13117-is-bakuchiol-better-than-retinol

© Originally published in Dermascope online magazine: http://www.dermascope.com/wholistic/understanding-hydrosols-and-essential-oils

Many of us do not realize how good we have it until it’s going or gone.  Unfortunately, this applies to skincare as well. In your 20’s, your skin is at it’s most supple, plump and wrinkle-free. While you might suffer from occasional bouts of acne due to hormones, collagen stores are plentiful and there’s not a crow’s foot in sight. The most you may have to do is cleanse, tone, apply sunscreen and get on with your day. But make no mistake, doing something is preferable to skipping a skincare routine all together. Doing nothing can really backfire as you age. Preventative care is what you are aiming for now.

By your 30’s the skin might start to show signs of aging, depending on how much time you spent in the sun and how little you did or did not follow a skincare regimen in your 20’s. Crow’s feet might begin to show around the eyes, and laugh lines may appear around the mouth. Sun spots and hyper-pigmentation can also be a new cause for alarm. These new signs of aging will appear not only on your face, but on your hands, neck and decolletage area as well – anywhere that gets constant sun exposure will be at risk. Collagen levels also begin to drop in your 30’s and 40’s and skin will slowly begin to thin and sag. If you make an extra effort to care for your skin from an early age, then you can do much to prevent the early signs of aging.

If you were not one to start early with a skincare regimen and have noticed those small signs of aging creeping up, never fear. There is a lot you can still do to prevent future skin damage and even repair or reverse your age spots and wrinkles. Besides your basic daily skin care routine – cleansing, toning, moisturizing – it is important to also use a few anti aging skin care products. Nowadays there are many different products and treatments available in the market to prevent signs of aging. Some products might be laden with chemicals, acids and other ingredients promising fast, extreme results. It is up to you and perhaps your dermatologist to determine the products that will be most effective for your skin type.

Custom-blend, powdered herbal facial mask

Vivoderm is natural-based skincare line that always recommends using products that are as gentle and chemical-free as possible. One of the most successful products in the Vivoderm Natural Skincare line is the 100% herbal Anti-Aging Mask.

This mask and the entire Vivoderm line was developed over 40 years ago by the Vivoderm founder, holistic dermatologist, Dr. H. Adhami, and used on thousands of patients in his private practice. *

Dr. Adhami believes the best treatments will help revitalize and repair your skin, not chemically burn or peel it away.  The Vivoderm Anti-Aging Mask is 100% herbal and natural and does not contain any chemicals or preservatives. Instead of peeling away the top layer of damaged skin, the way a chemical acid or peel would, the anti-aging mask allows the skin to heal and regenerate naturally with the absorption of pure enzymes and vitamins. The most powerful anti-aging herbs found in nature; Marshmallow, Rosemary and Aloe Vera, reduce inflammation and soothe skin while Lavender and Mint purify and refine the appearance of pores.  Two powerful antioxidants, Vitamin E and Green Tea along with other therapeutic essentials, repair free-radical damage.

And unlike pure clay masks, this self-mixed facial mask uses actual pulverized herbs along with natural pro-active enzymes and vitamins to reduce age spots and discoloration, boost vitamin intake and provide nutrients and anti-oxidants to your skin. It can also be custom-blended to suit your changing skin needs. If you need more moisture or a pick-me-up, blend the herbal mask powder with plain yogurt. If your skin is oily, use water, toner or witch hazel to change the consistency and effect.

This mask was also designed to increase cellular turnover, skin circulation and perk up and invigorate dull, damaged skin. The medium-grain texture of the blended herbs creates a natural exfoliate to help remove top-layer dead skin cells and create a smoother skin touch and feel. Gentle exfoliation also minimizes pores and discolorations, purifies the skin and removes black heads. Natural yogurt enzymes act as a gentle skin lightener; minimizing sun, acne and pregnancy spots while protecting skin against future damage.

We believe after the very first use you will start noticing the difference in your skin to reveal a radiant, fresh and more youthful complexion. Full size kits, refills and sample kits are available at www.vivoderm.com

* After regular use, many patients reported a dramatic change in their skin. Finer lines, smoother skin, smaller pores and reduced discolorations were typical effects.

• Size – 3.2 oz.
• 100% natural and herbal and contains no preservatives or chemicals.
• FULL KIT comes with convenient porcelain mixing bowl and scoop.
• Actual dry pulverized herbs – not a clay mask.
• No animal testing. No parabens.
• Mix with equal amounts of water, toner or yogurt before use.

ANTI – AGING FACIAL MASK INGREDIENTS 
Ingredients: Avena Sativa (Oat Flour), Secale cereal (Rye Flour), Starch, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary), Althaea officinalis (Marshmallow), Anethum Graveolens (Dill), Lavendula Angustifolia (Lavender), Mentha arvensis (Mint), Origanum vulgare (Oregano), Yogurt Powder, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera), Cuminum (Cumin), Ocimum basilicum (Basil), Green Tea, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Riboflavin (Vitamin B2), Calcium Panthothenate (Vitamin B5), Pyridoxine-HCL (Vitamin B6), Biotin (Vitamin H).

Sun Protection and Photo Aging

“Photo-aging” is the term used to describe the damage that is done to the skin from prolonged exposure to the sun’s UV radiation The amount of photo aging that develops depends on different factors such as a person’s skin color and their history of long-term or intense sun exposure. Studies have shown that repeated ultraviolet (UV) exposure breaks down collagen and impairs the synthesis of new collagen. The sun also attacks our elastin causing the skin to become loose, wrinkled, and leathery.

young lady applying sunscreen at the beach

Ultraviolet radiation penetrates the layers of the skin. Both UVA and UVB rays cause damage leading to wrinkles, lower immunity against infection, aging skin disorders, and cancer. However, they appear to damage cells in different ways.

UVB rays are the main cause of sunburns, and primarily affects the outer skin layers. UVB is most intense at midday when sunlight is brightest. Slightly over 70% of the yearly UVB dose is received during the summer. Only 28% is received during the remainder of the year.

UVA rays penetrate more deeply and efficiently. The intensity of UVA rays is less dependent on the time of day and season of the year than UVB rays. For example, you receive only about half of your yearly UVA dose during the summer months, with the balance spread over the rest of the year.

Almost all dermatologists and doctors agree, sun protection products should be worn year round. It is important to apply sunscreen diligently during the summer months as it is most intense at this time. But just because you’re a mountain dweller, don’t think you can avoid the sun’s rays there either. UV rays are almost twice as harsh at higher altitudes.  Combined with the reflective snow surface, high altitude sun can damage skin at a surprisingly fast rate and cause just as much damage as sun burns on the beach.

Sunscreen Product Facts

• Broad spectrum only should be used.
• SPF is only related to UVB protection and does not provide a reference to the UVA protection in the product.
• All sunscreens will have UVB protection, which is reflected in the SPF.
• If skin sunburns in 10 minutes, a properly applied sunscreen SPF 15 means they will burn in 150 minutes
• Physical screens reflect light whereas chemical screens absorb UV converting the energy into heat
• SPF15 blocks 87.5% of UVB and SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB.

If you are looking for the best all around protection against UV rays, Zinc Oxide is your best choice. Zinc has a superior ability to protect your skin from UVA radiation. So, it is the natural, organic star of the skin care products available today. Zinc may leave a slight ‘white-cast’ on your skin, but considering the alternative chemical-laden, inflammatory or allergy-inducing options for sun protection today, zinc is an excellent choice for sensitive skin. Scientists are currently working on a “micro-fine” version of zinc to eliminate this effect without changing the power of the sunscreen itself.

Anti-Acne, Sun protection SPF 15

Always look for a sunscreen product that is dual-spectrum, meaning it blocks both UVA and UVB rays. UVA rays are the rays that cause wrinkles and skin aging, while UVB rays produce tans and burns. Applying sunscreen to not only the face but body is important. Sunscreen should be applied daily and even multiple times during the day depending on your outdoor activities. Sun protections no lower than SPF 30 should be applied to the face and body.

Many may also be unaware they can EAT for sun protection! Natural anti-oxidants from fresh berries, green tea, spirulina and many other foods act as natural barriers to the harmful effects of the sun.

The Sunscreen Product Debate – Potentially Harmful Ingredients of Sunscreens

You may be wondering, “How effective are sunscreens in protecting the skin against UVA and UVB rays from the sun? How harmful are their ingredients? Do sunscreens damage more than they protect?” Many have reported the very ingredients in sunscreens that offer sun protection, have also been found to have adverse side effects

While the debate between whether sunscreens are safe or not continues, chemical watchdog, the Environmental Working Group reported 84% of sunscreen products are harmful to consumers.

The bottom line is this. It is up to you as the informed consumer to research all skin care and sunscreen products you use, not only for efficacy but for safety as well. You only have one body, do your best to protect it and treat it well. Avoid prolonged exposure to the sun and take necessary precautions and measures to increase your natural sun protection factor and avoid future skin damage.

We all know that hydration is crucial and that drinking plenty of water optimizes the functions of the body. What some people forget is that the body needs not only to be hydrated from the inside but also from the outside. With the summer sun sapping moisture from your skin, it’s the perfect time to introduce ultra-moisturizing shea butter treatments into your skincare regimen.

Shea butter comes from nuts of karite trees, which are only found in the wild in the savannah regions of West and Central Africa. It is said Cleopatra used to smooth shea butter onto her body to counteract Egypt’s scorching climate. Centuries later, people around the world turn to this versatile skincare ingredient for all manner of applications from soothing scrapes to treating parched hair.

closeup of shea butter and shea nuts

Shea trees can live for 300 years, but they produce nuts only once annually. It takes about 15 to 30 years for karite trees to bear high-quality fruit that is later crushed and boiled to obtain a yellowish-colored fatty extract. According to the American Shea Butter Institute (ASBI), this product, which is rich in vitamins A, E, and F, is a superior moisturizer that contains remarkable healing properties for a variety of skin ailments, including eczema, psoriasis, and acne. It is also used to fortify and protect cell membranes, fade scars, minimize the appearance of stretch marks and wrinkles, improve hyperpigmentation, offer natural protection from harmful ultraviolet rays, and even relieve sinus problems. Shea butter is known as one of the most effective skin healers and moisturizers ever created. Originally used by African healers thousands of years ago, shea butter remains one of nature’s most potent skin rejuvenators and hydrators.

The ASBI recommends using the cold pressed shea butter that does not contain chemicals or preservatives. The ASBI classifies products as A, B, C or F. Class A is premium shea butter while class F is poor quality shea moisturizer. Pure shea butter is also edible and has long been used for cooking in many parts of Africa. Unrefined 100 percent shea butter is available at health food stores throughout the US.

This deeply nourishing product also has a low melting point, and it penetrates quickly when it comes in contact with the skin without leaving behind any greasy residue. Shea butter’s ease of use and myriad benefits have made it extremely popular and a darling on spa menus. Shea butter is high in oleic acid – a deeply moisturizing essential fatty acid that comprises the trademark thick texture. It’s also an ideal carrier for essential oil blends and mixes well with other oils such as fractionated coconut, jojoba and safflower.

While shea butter is effective on the body, it can also help people put their best faces forward and be a saving grace for those with troubled skin. Studies have shown it to be a natural anti-inflammatory agent. It decreases any acne flare-ups while naturally hydrating the skin, hence normalizing the sebum production to avoid future outbreaks – leaving the skin less oily.

Shea butter works well on all skin types, even sensitive skin. In addition, it boasts cinnamates and other compounds that may help inhibit enzymes that contribute to the inflammatory response.

The delicate and wrinkled eye area can benefit greatly from using shea butter to plump the skin around the eye area and help erase crow’s feet. Because the eye area does not have many oil glands, the skin around the eyes easily dehydrates without the ability to reproduce oil. The use of shea butter in eye cream provides a rich and healing source of hydration to penetrate the neglected eye area, keeping it supple and helping it retain moisture.

Also look for shea butter in your all over body creams and body butters. Shea butter and Coca Butter is used to help skin of all types heal and regain moisture levels and leave a silky finish. In addition to treating the delicate eye area, lips and lip lines can also be improved with shea butter. Not only does shea butter nourish the skin but it is also used to treat troubled tresses. Warm shea butter can be applied to the shaft of the hair to heal, protect, and penetrate every strand to make hair shinier, softer, and stronger. This treatment is perfect for people with dry, damaged, or over-processed hair as it promotes restructuring of the hair shaft. It’s beneficial to those who have been exposed to the sun and ocean, or extreme elements that are damaging and drying to the hair.

No matter what your outdoor preference is this summer –whether it is swimming, hiking or simply sunning – be sure to include versatile shea butter in your skin care treatment plans!

You can find almond oil in many natural skincare products today. Vivoderm uses Almond Oil in most of its natural facial lotions and body creams. The Vivoderm Chamomile Body Butter is a thick, rich all-over skin hydrator, perfect to protect your skin against for the cold, dry weather of winter.

Grown in the wilderness of Brazil, the tree and bark of the bitter almond tree (Prunus amygdalus amara) was used for tanning, while the fruit and nut was used for cooking and frying. In those times, nuts were sorted out and the bitter ones were used for ethenic oils in perfumeries and for the creations of industrial usages.

Due to the bitter acid of the nuts and the potential harm of constipation that was caused by the acid, especially in children, trees were cultivated to create a higher percent of sweet-tasting almonds. The almond trees originally started in minor Asia and then moved to China, the Mediterranean region, Spain, Malaga, Valencia, Island of Mallorca, southern France, southern Italy, Messina, Greece, North Africa, Algeria, Tunisia, Turkey, southern Russia, and the United States.

Bitter almonds (Geren amygdalus amara) consist of 30 to 50 percent fatty oils; 20 to 30 percent egg white; three to five percent sugar; two to three percent emulsion, lipase, and enzymes; and two to four percent amygdalin acid glycoside, which is converted into choline, asparagine, and vitamin C. Sweet almonds (Amygdalus dulcis) consists of 30 to 60 percent fatty sweet almond oil, 20 to 30 percent glucose, 10 percent saccharose, and two to three percent emulsifying and enzymatic properties. It is used in food, cosmetics, cough syrup, and other pharmaceutical preparations. A very small amount of bitter almond oil is still used in the bakery, pastry, candy, and liquor industries as it enhances and stimulates the taste of many products. In the preparation of food, almond oil can be used in salads and for cooking. A small amount of almond oil is often used to enhance flavors.

In the cosmetic industry, almond oil has many positive usages, including skin conditioning and enhancing the feel and penetration of facial creams, body lotions, hand and foot care, fragrance ingredients, soaps, cleansing products, hair care products, bath oils, sun tanning products, and makeup. The development of skin and body care products has unlimited possibilities with which to use almond oil to create a large variety of personal care products.

For corrective purposes, almond oil – as a carrier oil – is a neutral oil, therefore, it is used in many supplement recommendations. For muscle soreness and leg cramps, almond oil can be combined with a few drops of birch, borage, eucalyptus, evening primrose, ginger, lavender, peppermint, or wintergreen oils and rubbed on the ache or pain. To ease cramps in the calf muscle, rub the blend on the calf and flex the foot several times.

Blending lavender and chamomile oils with almond oil as a carrier can offer relief against sunburn. Almond oil as a carrier for chamomile oil is a remedy for many unpleasant occurrences.

Almond oil as a sedative is used in the pharmaceutical profession due to the following amino acids: alanine, magnesium, phenylalanine, and vitamin F. It is soothing and mollifying as a medicinal substance. Used internally, almond butter is tolerated by diabetics.

In many cases, the end price of a product determines the quality of the product. The purified almond oil used in cosmetic manufacturing is produced by grinding the kernel and pressing the oil out, whereby the bulk can be dried and used as abrasives in face and body masks or sold as sweet almond meal or sweet almond seed powder.

To take advantage of sweet almonds, there are several water-soluble extractions available: sweet almond flower extract, sweet almond bark extract, sweet almond bud extract, sweet almond fruit extract, and sweet almond fruit water. A sweet almond leaf cell extract was found to be a highly potent antioxidant skin protector. For hair conditioning, a combination of sweet almond protein and oil is very effective. One of almond oils biggest benefits is that it keeps the skin and hair looking great. It is considered a mild hypoallergenic oil that is safe for sensitive skin. When using the oil directly on the skin, which is done in some instances, it is wise to warm the oil to body temperature before use for better penetration into the skin. By combining almond oil with different essential oils, not only is the power of these oils tripled, but it also enhances the penetration since almond oil is considered an essential carrier oil in the skin care industry.

Folklore has offered many ideas and usages for the nut, which, of course, were never medically proven and registered. A few of these usages include helping to control ultraviolet radiation damage due to unprotected outdoor activity, helping to treat psoriasis and eczema, delaying general signs of aging, treating dark circles under the eyes, and helping with earaches in children.

Almond oil has a light, pleasant feel, but many people will reject the direct use of the oil as it leaves an oily look and feel to the skin.

There are nearly 20 different almonds worldwide. With the improvement of technologies and harvesting, processing techniques for California almonds are now used all over the world. California sweet almond oil can be blended with other oils or used by itself in major cosmetic production with unlimited benefits.

Author: Dr. Dieter Kuster. Originally published in Dermascope Magazine, Dec 2016

http://www.dermascope.com/resources/almond-oil

Herbology, which is also known as herbalism and herbal medicine, is the study and use of plants for medicinal purposes. Herbology and botanical studies can incorporate many different paths, including basic herbal pharmacology, physiology, nutrition, homeopathy, aromatherapy, and flower essences. Modern herbalists can use all or some of these options to heal a wide variety of traumas, diseases, and infections.

History

Most modern medical and pharmacological practices can trace their roots to ancient herbalism or traditional medicine in some form or another. In India, the practice of Ayurveda dates back thousands of years and emphasizes plant-based treatments, hygiene, and body-mind balance. Egyptian papyri dating back to 1550 B.C.E. have also been found to document medicine with a catalogue of useful plants and minerals. The Chinese and Greeks developed their own versions of herbal pharmacology around the first century C.E. with extensive herbal prescriptions and a new focus to treat the cause of diseases rather than the symptoms. In the Middle to Dark Ages, medical treatments became a strange combination of folklore, religion, and herbalistic practices that may or may not have been effective.

Modern Herbalisim

Modern invention and the scientific method took over many industrialized nations in the 18th and 19th centuries and quickly pushed aside traditional medicine and herbalist practices. Only those nations that did not develop economically stayed rooted in the old ways of healing. Herbalists were soon considered antiquated and their herbal treatments were passed over for chemical compounds and prescriptions. Yet, according to the World Health Organization, approximately 25 percent of modern drugs used in the United States have been derived from plants.

As a result of the rush to modernize society, many people in the new millennium are seeing destructive repercussions, including a prevalence of diseases and toxicity that did not exist before. The desire to return to how it was before has fueled a new interest in natural systems and the health benefits of organic living, sustainable farming, and herbalism.

Methods of Practice

Today’s certified or master herbalists will likely have been trained in one of the hundreds of professional schools or apprenticed under a licensed tutor or mentor. Most students focus on specific regional areas to become expert and their training should include in-depth botanical studies of native and non-native plants, diagnosis and treatment of conditions, and preparation and dispensation of herbal medications. Cultivating, harvesting, prepping, and storing are key factors to learning the best methods of preserving medicinal properties. Remedies can be prepared and administered as tinctures, salves, ointments, essential oils, teas, compresses, capsules, or tablets.

Herbal treatments can also be used alone or in combination with standardized scientific methods to supplement treatments, depending on the condition and diagnosis. While the debate about science versus nature continues, it is up to the individual to determine the method of treatment that is most beneficial for them.

by Rachelle Dupree, marketing and communications director for Vivoderm Natural Skincare
O c t o b e r 2 0 1 6 | D E R M A S C O P E

Detail of garden lavender flowers

Lavender is a hardy, fragrant shrub that has narrow leaves and grey-blue flowers and can grow to a height of three feet. While the aroma of lavender can be found throughout the entire plant, essential oil can only be obtained from the flower. Originally grown in the mountains of Europe, in poor but well-drained soils, lavender is now grown worldwide. However, the primary aromatherapy producers are France, Bulgaria, Croatia, and Russia.

HISTORY

The word lavender often conjures wonderful images of purple colored fields in the south of France. Sometimes referred to as the Swiss army knife of herbs, lavender has been used throughout history. The Persians, Greeks, and Romans all used lavender to disinfect their sick rooms. The term lavender is derived from the Latin word ‘lavare,’which means to wash. With its many cleansing capabilities, lavender was the Romans’aromatic and medicinal choice for scenting their bathwater and making ointments to heal the body.

During the Great Plague, lavender was part of four thieves’ vinegar, a mixture that was said to be used with great success by grave robbers in order to avoid contracting the deadly disease. It also has a long history in the development of modern aromatherapy. Maurice Gattefosse’s observation of the dramatic healing effect of lavender oil when he burned his hand in a laboratory accident led him to research essential oils in greater depth. Dr. Jean Valnet used lavender oil to treat serious burns and war injuries when he was a French army surgeon. The medicinal use of lavender, especially in essential oils, continues today with good reason.

There are many different varieties of lavender, some of which are considered more important because of their specific properties. The most common plants are spike lavender (Lavandula spica), French lavender (Lavandula stoechas), and true lavender or English lavender (Lavandula officinalis or Lavandula angustifolia).

CHEMISTRY

To truly understand lavender, its chemistry needs to be explored, including linalyl acetate – an ester that is anti-inflammatory – and linalool, an alcohol that gives lavender its antiseptic properties. When buying lavender for clinical uses, true lavender 40/42 is required, with the numbers representing the required minimum percentage of these two particular pieces of chemistry. In comparison, Bulgarian lavender has a gentler aroma and has linalyl acetate and linalool in percentages of 38/40. It is important to know the country of origin of any of the essential oils being used in the spa because its location of growth, climate, harvesting techniques, and distillation temperature all determine its chemistry and, therefore, its properties.

For example, a dry and hot summer will create a higher percentage of esters than a damp summer would. Furthermore, Alpine lavender is always higher in esters than plants grown at lower altitudes. Alpine lavender also has a more camphorous smell, but it is more useful for treating respiratory conditions. The chemistry of this oil is also unique in a different way.

It not only has the ability to have its own action enhanced by other oils, but, in turn, it also heightens the action of the oils it is mixed with. In the process of custom blending oils for a client, lavender should be considered in most blends for its ability to bring a blend of oils together in their action and aromatic odor.

USING LAVENDER IN THE SPA

Of all the essential oils used in clinical aromatherapy, lavender is undoubtedly the most versatile, with a wide range of properties from analgesic to antiseptic. It is an essential oil that should be in every first aid kit in every spa. As a sedative, lavender is very effective;
when used as an inhalation at night, it will aid in sleep. A small amount of lavender oil can be massaged onto the throat to relieve a cough. The sedative action of the oil will calm the cough. Lavender will also relieve many forms of headaches if massaged onto the temples. For best results, combine it with peppermint and eucalyptus in a cold pressed oil and gently massage it onto the temples and the back of the neck.

Another popular use for lavender is in the relief of muscle and joint pain. Because it is considered an analgesic, it is best used in a massage treatment or in a bath and should be combined with other analgesic oils, such as rosemary, black pepper, clove, and peppermint. Muscle pain, menstrual pain, and arthritic pain can all benefit from the application of the oil, resulting in reduced inflammation and the calming of the central nervous system. As an antiseptic, it is also soothing and anti-inflammatory, thus making it very useful for many skin conditions. Its delicate aroma also lends itself to being blended in creams and lotions, usually in a dilution of one percent to two percent.

In the spa, lavender is very valuable in the treatment of acne. As an antiseptic and anti-inflammatory, it not only inhibits the bacteria causing the infection, but also calms the redness associated with acne. Furthermore, it can be blended with ylang ylang to help reduce sebaceous flow. Lavender can also help in many cases of eczema and blends well with chamomile and peppermint to calm the skin. When using lavender for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, be sure to use it in low dilutions of less than one percent.

One of the most important properties of lavender is its ability to restore unbalanced states, whether of mind or body, to a place in which healing can occur. With summer just around the corner, consider lavender for its insecticidal properties. When combined with oils such as lemon, citronella, eucalyptus, and tea tree, it makes a great mosquito repellant, as well as a lotion for the treatment of insect bites. Lavender can also be used to alleviate sunburns and sunstrokes when prepared in a light lotion, cold compress, or cold gel.

It has been used for centuries to protect clothes and linens from moths. When combined with oils such as myrrh, lemongrass, and tea tree, lavender can be used as fungicidal for the treatment of athlete’s foot and other fungal infections.

MIND AND SPIRIT

Lavender oil is useful for relieving stress. Stress that becomes counterproductive on a physiological level involves either the sympathetic or parasympathetic nervous system. Sympathetic hyperfunctioning is triggered more by physicalstress while parasympathetic hyperfunctioning is caused more by emotional stress. Lavender oil will inhibit both the sympathetic and parasympathetic nervous system functions. By selectively inhibiting either sympathetic or parasympathetic nervous excess, lavender can assist responses to unproductive stress of any kind.

Salvatore Battaglia quotes Peter Holmes as suggesting the use of lavender in acute crisis situations dominated by sudden, unpredictable, and spontaneous features. Holmes also states that lavender can promote personal renewal in every way by washing away past habits and opening clients up to new possibilities. (1) It helps by producing inner acceptance of a painful situation, easing fear, and creating the strength that allows people to move on.

Lavender has been the focus of many clinical trials and is being used in hospital wards as a massage oil, a vapor to help dispel anxiety, and an alternative to orthodox drugs to help patients sleep. Gabriel Mojay equates lavender with Virgo, the astrological sign. He speaks of the characteristics of Virgo to include oversensitivity and inhibition, using lavender to “calm the nervous anxiety that results in shyness and embarrassment.”(2)

Lavender should be used wisely because, while a small amount is calming, too much can be stimulating. Always remember that as popular as lavender is, it is not everyone’s favorite aromatic oil, but if it is blended well with other oils, clients will greatly benefit from its amazing, medicinal properties.

References
1 Battaglia, S. (2003). The Complete Guide to Aromatherapy. Brisbane: International Centre
of Holistic Aromatherapy.
2 Mojay, G. (1999). Aromatherapy for Healing the Spirit: Restoring Emotional and Mental Balance
with Essential Oils. Rochester, VT: Healing Arts Press.

Author Trish Green, director of sales and marketing for Eve Taylor North America, has been an educator for 40 years. She is an international speaker, educating aesthetician across the United States and Canada. As a CIDESCO aesthetician and a homeopath, she specializes in the wellness approach in her aesthetic practice, offering a unique approach to the treatment of clients in the spa.

Dermascope Magazine, July 2016

Sweet Almond Oil is an ingredient commonly found in natural skin care products with a wide array of uses. Almond oil is typically used as a base, blended with water or hydrosols, to create skin creams, lotions and other skin care products. Almond oil also used as carrier oil for mixing or diluting pure essential oils. It is extremely beneficial for the skin. It is great for all skin types and helps in easing itching, irritation and dryness. It can be blended for aromatherapy as massage oil – easing muscle pain and inflammation. It is inexpensive and is absorbed in the skin fairly quickly and works well for all skin types.

Natural Almond Oil consists of Omega 3 fatty acids, vitamins A, B, D and E that improves the skin health to a great extent. Personal care therapists use it for pedicures and manicures as it aids in softening the skin. This oil has also been used effectively for reducing stretch marks. It can be used for face massages which will help to enhance your complexion and reduce dry skin and fine lines. Facial creams that contain Almond Oil soften the skin and reduce wrinkles and dry patches. Due to the high vitamin content, you can also use this oil for reducing under eye dark circles.

Natural ingredients to promote healthy skin

Sweet Almonds are the almonds that we typically eat. The almonds are pressed – much like olives – to create the oil, which can then be used as a skin care ingredient or even for culinary uses. Contrary to popular knowledge, the almond is not a nut but actually a drupe, or what is called a “stone fruit,” like a peach that grows with a soft fleshy outer shell surrounding a hard inner shell with a seed inside. Presently, the largest producer of almonds is USA, most of which comes from the state of California. Spain too is known for its high quality almonds.

Among different natural skin products almond oil is one of the best natural moisturizers to help nourish and soften the skin. Almond oils act as a natural anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant. By helping your skin stay healthy you obtain a more youthful look. So, you should always go for a natural skin moisturizer that contains sweet almond oil or a similar natural oil, like jojoba or coconut, etc.

Vivoderm is dedicated to creating the most natural products containing the purest ingredients. We use almond oil along with many other natural oils in almost all of our natural face and body creams, including our Intense Moisturizer, Anti Wrinkle Eye Cream and Body Butters. All designed to moisturize dehydrated skin and provide a boost of natural vitamins to help make a more beautiful and healthy you!

by Rhonda Allison

(Excerpts from April 2016 issue of Dermascope magazine, featuring the Vivoderm Anti-Aging Mask).

Milk has been used throughout history to care for the skin. Many people are familiar with Cleopatra’s fabled milk baths and, as it turns out, numerous other noble women throughout history followed suit. These women realized the youth-preserving benefits that milk provided the skin. Milk is immensely rich in nutrients, including proteins, lipids, vitamins, minerals, and, of course, the ingredient that is responsible for its cell-regenerating abilities: lactic acid.

Today, lactic acid is used in aesthetics and skin care to deliver a host of benefits to the skin and correct signs of aging, acne scarring, dehydration, discoloration, and more.

What is Lactic Acid?
L-lactic acid is a keratolytic alpha hydroxy acid that is also known as ‘milk acid.’ It is gentler than glycolic
acid and provides exfoliation without provoking irritation. It also softens the skin, increases desquamation, stimulates cell regeneration, improves the skin’s texture, and has natural brightening abilities.

(Chemical / Technical Details)

Lactic acid is also chiral in that it contains two optimal isomers. Essentially it has two parts: a left-handed part and a right-handed part. This is why lactic acid is often accompanied by an ‘L.’ This letter denotes the
chirally-correct molecule of the acid is being used. The ‘L’ form is absorbed more easily by the skin and increases the overall performance.

The body naturally produces lactic acid during normal metabolism and exercise. When the demand for energy spikes in the body, such as during strenuous or power workouts, glucose is broken down and oxidized to pyruvate, which then stimulates the production of lactate. This process is beneficial because it helps ensure energy production is maintained. Even during rest, lactate continues to be produced as a result of metabolism in red blood cells that lack mitochondria.

Some research has even shown lactate to play an important role in early-stage development for brain metabolism and as an energy source for the brain in the metabolism of neurons.

L-lactic acid is an important alpha hydroxy acid that may be used in peels, facials, and homecare regimens to help correct the signs of aging, hyperpigmentation, some acne and acne scarring, uneven tone and texture, and more.

While many alpha hydroxy acids are derived from fruit, lactic acid is most-commonly derived from fermented milk or sugar (or yogurt) and is considered a non-toxic, active, and organic substance.

Common Uses for Lactic Acid

Although L-lactic acid may be used to help correct numerous skin issues, it is particularly beneficial in the treatment of aging. It also works well for sensitive skin and skin of color, which may be more prone to dryness, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and discoloration. Acid selection will, of course, always vary by person and should be chosen based on specific skin type and goals.

In treating aging skin, L-lactic acid really shines. It stimulates cell turnover and collagen production to firm sagging skin, sheds pigmented cells, brightens the overall tone, and delivers hydration beyond the surface. Because of its exfoliating capabilities, this acid allows for more efficient penetration than other pro-youth ingredients.

It also increases dermal and epidermal thickness, thus revealing more firmness and less fine lines and wrinkles. While lifting epidermal cells, lactic acid stimulates the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid at the cellular level, resulting in smoother and younger-looking skin. In the treatment of acne, L-lactic acid helps to loosen follicle impactions, reduce corneocyte cohesion, and thicken the corneum layer. It also helps stimulate cell turnover and tissue regeneration while delivering important hydration and brightening benefits.

For hyperpigmentation and other sun-induced discolorations, L-lactic acid is beneficial for many skin types and provides exfoliation and skin-brightening support. It is also gentler than glycolic acid and typically does not induce skin irritation.

When properly used, L-lactic acid is an invaluable tool in the treatment room and at home to correct the visual signs of aging, effectively treat acne, and brighten and even the skin tone. Taking a daily milk bath is not necessary, but a daily dose of lactic acid will provide many benefits for your skin.

Anti Aging Facial Mask
Vivoderm Natural Skincare
310-270-0986
vivoderm.com

There are a number of anti acne face masks available in the market these days. These face masks can be found in many different formulas to aid in preventing new acne breakouts and healing old marks or scars from previous eruptions. So, how do you choose the best face mask for acne and skin healing if you want to get the best results for yourself?  If you suffer from sensitive skin and want to treat your skin in the gentlest manner then herbal and natural face masks will be best to prevent irritation and inflammation. Herbal facial masks can also be helpful for those with normal to oily skin as they are less apt to cause excessive irritation or chemical burning.

Most beauty stores stock multiple forms of anti acne face masks but they may contain parabens or harmful chemicals that are not good for your skin in the long run, as they can cause further damage. When using products that contain natural ingredients, you can clean your skin gently and let the inflamed skin tissues reduce and heal gradually. Comfrey, chamomile, calendula are natural herbs that reduce inflammation and redness. Powerful enzymes found in oat flour and rye flour hydrate and soften the skin and hair follicle to help dissolve trapped oil and exit the pores.

The Vivoderm Anti-Acne Facial Mask was developed by a holistic dermatologist years ago and used on thousands of his patients since, with great success. Some have even called this mask “miraculous” for healing and preventing acne. Take a look at the attached before and after photos for the actual results. This customizable, herbal mask is completely natural – made of pulverized herbs and lactic acid (from yogurt) – and does not contain any chemicals whatsoever.  Once blended and applied, the mask enters the skin pores and unplugs them by clearing out (or pulling) all the impurities as it dries. Moreover, the antiseptic properties of many of the herbs, including Rosemary and Lavender, help in clearing out the bacteria which causes the acne in the first place. Lactic acid helps to reduce dark marks and scars. This acne treatment will remove dead skin cells slowly and produce smooth and blemish free skin with continued use.

For best results, you can use the mask up to 3 times a week. If needed, the mask is all natural and gentle enough to be used daily.

• Good for teenagers and adults with acne.
  • For all skin types, especially those with adult acne or Rosacea.
  • Stimulates cell growth, reduces inflammation.
  • Prevents scarring and balances oil production.
  • Helps strengthen the capillaries and has a rejuvenating effect.
  • Increases circulation which promotes health and repair.
  • Removes dead skin cells and repairs blemishes without drying the skin.
  • Anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, antiseptic and cellular regenerator.
  • Rosemary, Lavender, Dill, Mint, Aloe Vera, Green Tea, and Vitamins C and E absorb impurities and oil, detoxify and refine pores, reduce inflammation and thoroughly exfoliate.
  • Angelica —anti inflammatory, stimulant, tonic.

Popularly referred as glycerol, glycerin is an odorless, sweet tasting liquid which is utilized in different beauty and cosmetic products. It is highly popular because of the different advantages that it can offer for natural skin care. It is obtained from a mix of fat that is obtained from water and vegetable oil.

Glycerin has water-drawing capacity and is non-toxic in character. It draws moisture in the skin and lets it stay nourished and moisturized. It is safe for using in skin care products and used for babies and children. It is a versatile component as it never loses its chemical constancy when combined with other elements.

Glycerin is known for its various advantages that it offers for treating dry skin. It protects chapped skin and aids in creating a smooth skin layer. It draws adequate quantity of moisture that is needed for moisturizing dry skin. This ingredient is used in soaps, creams and body lotions. It is very mild and has no side-effects. It also helps in reducing skin problems like eczema and psoriasis.

Even those with oily skin can use moisturizers or a cleansers containing glycerin without excess drying effects that other products may produce. Glycerin has the capacity to reduce the emergence of fine lines and wrinkles and helps in guarding against bacterial infections. You can use glycerin or products with glycerin on a regular basis to keep skin plump and moisturized.

Many of the Vivoderm facial creams and body creams contain glycerin; including the Cocoa Butter Foot Cream, Anti Wrinkle Eye Cream and Intense Moisturizer among others.  If you are looking for natural products with glycerin that combat acne, try Vivoderm’s Zinc Repairing face cream. It helps to retain the skin’s moisture and reduce the signs of aging thanks to natural sunblock properties that reduces wrinkles and sun damage. Fifteen percent zinc also aids to reduce acne breakouts and heal acne scars.

Dermascope magazine featuring The Vivoderm Anti Aging Daily Moisturizer January 2015.

“The Anti Aging Daily Moisturizer by Vivoderm is a new, oil-free facial moisturizer infused with comfrey, aloe vera and vitamin E to erase wrinkles and fine lines and heal aging skin. This gentle, fragrance-free moisturizer is super lightweight and ideal for normal to combination skin types. It provides potent natural ingredients for skin moisture and balance. St. John’s Wort and Rosemary supply anti-aging and antioxidant benefits while sage and grape seed soothe and tone the skin.”

Moisturizing Summer Skin Care

One of the questions we hear the most in the skincare industry is, “Do I still need a facial moisturizer in the warm, summer months?”

The answer is undoubtedly “Yes!”

You want to pay attention to texture and formulations, but ALL skin types – even oily skin – still need to hydrate and moisturize in the summer.

And don’t forget, there IS a difference between body lotions and facial creams – never mix the two.  Heavier formulations of body creams could cause your delicate facial skin to break out or hyper-react.

Let’s break down some of the most common skin types and what  types of moisturizer or facial cream to use.

1. NORMAL SKIN

Most normal skin reflects the changing seasons, loosing hydration and becoming more dry in the winter months and slightly more oily or hydrated when the summer comes.

Excessive indoor heating, warm baths and less humidity during winter months will require heavier, richer facial creams usually blended with a base of oil.  So, alternatively, normal skin will require a lighter moisturizer.  Look for water-based versions or vitamin-rich serums or ceramides.  Ultra-light facial lotions will absorb well into the skin while limiting excess oil production.  Water-based lotions should included natural ingredients calm sun-damaged inflammation, such as chamomile, Calendula and Aloe vera.  Also look for Vitamins E and A for natural anti-aging properties.

2. COMBINATION / ACNE-PRONE SKIN

Similar to normal skin, but oily in the T-zone, combination skin may require using two different moisturizers if your skin type is very unbalanced.  Stick with the same water-based moisturizer on the whole facial area as for normal skin, but use combinations of herbal properties for the oiler-T-zones of the forehead, nose and chin.  For instance, on the normal-skin areas of the cheeks and neck, use the lighter formulations with natural anti-redness and sun-healing herbs mentioned above like Aloe vera and Calendula or Oatmeal.  Then for the T-zone, choose herbal ingredients that help keep excess oil and breakouts in check – like lavender, rosemary and green tea.

3. OILY SKIN

Despite the false myth that oily skin doesn’t need any additional moisture – the opposite is actually true.  Even oily skin responds with more balanced oil production when you ADD moisture.  Choose a lighter Vitamin infused serum or herbal formula that does double duty for oil production and anti-aging including Vitamin E, A, C and Rosemary.

4. DRY SKIN

To keep flakiness and wrinkles at bay, dry skin types still demand a heavier version of facial moisturizer for summer – a richer cream vs. a light lotion or serum. You might continue to use the same brand or formulation from your winter skincare routine, but spritz your face first with a refreshing toner or witch hazel to help dilute the cream and increase absorption.  Choose herbal formulas that help your skin fight free-radicals and sun damage with natural Zinc Oxide and Vitamin E and C.

And as always, NO skin care facial routine would be complete without SPF or sun protection.  The Vivoderm Zinc Repairing Facial Cream combines natural Zinc Oxide sun protection with an oil-based moisturizer and natural herbs to provide 15 SPF coverage for your daily routines.  For longer sun exposure, use a higher SFP, like 50-60 when possible.